Borgo Egnazia is a luxury resort situated between the Adriatic coast, the ruins of the ancient Roman town of Egnazia, and the village of Savelletri.  It’s a new modern property, which is made to resemble an old borgo (village) and is nestled among very old olive groves.

The sprawling complex is stunning, all the buildings are pristine white stone which is a lovely contrast to the green olive trees and the blue-green water in the pools.  And arches, so many arches everywhere you look.  Both inside and out.

The decor is calm and serene, a color scheme of taupes, creams and whites, with pops of aqua throughout.  It’s just a very relaxing place to spend time and believe me, I could have spent a long, long time here. Forever, not being long enough.

Borgo Egnazia offers three different types of accommodation:

1.  La Corte This is the hotel which houses 63 stylishly appointed guest rooms in the main building.  Suites have large terraces which afford views of the sea, countryside and golf course.

2.  The Villas These are secluded little houses, perfect for families or groups traveling together.  Complete with fully equipped kitchens, dishwashers and laundry facilities, beautiful balconies, comfortable beds, and private swimming pools with side chairs and outdoor dining tables.  Each villa is surrounded by locked gates.

3. The Borgo  Resembling a typical white Puglian village, it has 92 rooms divided into Borgo Rooms, Borgo Deluxe and Townhouses.

Since the complex itself is like a litte town, with winding mazes of streets, I will tell you honestly that it was easy to get lost, especially at night.  However, one very helpful service was the taxis.  Not big yellow ones either.  Little golf carts.  Just call the front desk, give your room number and a cart will come pick you up and deliver you wherever you wish.  I liked that nice touch.

Strolling or motoring around the property you’ll see a nice mix of olive tress, prickly pear cactus, and even bright red globes of  pomegranates dangling from plants.

The gorgeous and spacious rooms I liked the little touches. Bamboo slippers, giant walk-in closets with vanities fit for a queen, comfy robes and sumptuous bath products with their signature scent and logo on them.  My room had a stone bathroom complete with a large tub and a rain shower head.

Throughout the main building, you’ll find cozy sitting areas in little nooks around every corner.  Both inside…

And outside…

>For more room and property photos click here.

A few of their amenities:

• bicycles for guests’ use. tour the property or ride to the beach
• San Domenico 18-hole golf course
• Vair Spa (vair means “real” in local dialect), where treatments and products are based on ancient traditions
• boutique
• four restaurants
• three outdoor and one heated indoor pools
• cooking classes for adults and children
• beach clubs, and kid and teen clubs
• personal chef services and 24hr room service
• cigar lounge
• ability to host large events

When I arrived, it was late and dark, and though I didn’t get photos, the outside looked just magical, all aglow with light from the massive black lanterns, which are scattered all over the property. Inside the main building, fireplaces in all of the many sitting areas were always burning.

The food and wine here were both fantastic. Gourmet food, with fresh, local, in-season ingredients and traditional recipes.  Fresh fish, homemade pastas, cheeses, fruit and vegetables, they follow a very Mediterranean diet.  Most of the ingredients are home-grown and they even have an herb garden on the property.  They gave me a tiny booklet with printed recipes so I could make a few of their dishes.

And the staff were all perfectly lovely, warm and wonderfully accommodating, which you would expect from a top-quality resort.

Borgo Egnazia is a perfect place to explore the Itria Valley (Alberobello, Ostuni, Locorotondo etc.), Lecce, Bari and everywhere in between.  Because of its remote location, you will need a car to explore the area.  It’s about equal distance, 45 minutes by car from both Bari and Brinsidi airports.

If you’re looking for a luxe, contemporary resort to explore Puglia from, or just relax with the family and swim or play golf, this one would top the list.  I can’t think of one negative.  Well, other than the fact that I had to leave. Sigh.

What do you think of the place?  Would you stay here?

 Need help finding the perfect accommodation for your stay in Puglia?  Click here to see how I can help!

Photo © Steven Rothfeld

For those of you who don’t know, I often credit Frances Mayes for being the catalyst for changing my life, finding my passion and calling in my career and my love affair with Italy.  If it weren’t for her, Italy wouldn’t have really been on my radar.

On my about page, I talk about seeing the movie ‘Under The Tuscan Sun‘, (that was loosely based on her book) and walking out of the theater to make plans to visit Italy.

What followed after that first trip has resulted in an amazing personal journey.  Whenever I hear the mere mention of her name, the movie, the books or Bramasole, it warms me from the inside out and brings a joyous smile to my face. I’ll be forever grateful to her.

So imagine how overjoyed I was to hear about The Tuscan Sun Cookbook, a joint venture between Frances and her husband Ed.  And then imagine how giddy and excited I was that she agreed to do a giveaway and answer a few questions for readers.  The whole experience has been a bit surreal for me and in true Italian fashion, she has been nothing short of warm, friendly and gracious.

The cookbook itself is beautiful.  It’s 224 pages and contains over 130 recipes organized by course – Antipasti, Primi, Secondi, Contorni and Dolci.  You’ll find recipes for crostini toppings, caponata, fried artichokes, pizzas, scottaditi, brodetto, torta della nonna and many more.  Some of their friends are credited with recipes as well.  Giusi supplied a lovely Ragù and Massimo and Daniela offered up their recipe for Wine Cake.

Sformati © Steven Rothfeld

The mouthwatering photos of not only the dishes and ingredients, but of the locals enjoying daily life, the landscapes, nooks and crannies around Bramasole and the surrounding property, cozy table settings and guests gathered around the table enjoying the fruits of their labor, transports you instantly to Tuscany.  And frankly, there’s no where else I’d rather be.

Chicken under a brick © Steven Rothfeld

It’s a wonderful cookbook and I’m so excited to be able to make some of Ed and Frances’ recipes, maybe even using their Bramasole olive oil. If I can’t pull up a chair at one of Bramasole’s many inviting tables – preparing dishes from their cookbook and enjoying them with friends around my own table, will be a close second.

Soffritto © Steven Rothfeld

MY Q&A WITH FRANCES MAYES

1.  What inspired you and Ed to write the cookbook and what were the biggest challenges? 

We’ve been cooking in Tuscany for 22 years, so imagine all the little pieces of paper with scrawled recipes floating around!  We love cooking there and wanted to gather our bounty together and to share it with like-minded souls. It’s all about gathering around the table with friends and that’s our primary inspiration.

2.  If you could pick your last Tuscan meal, what would it be?

What a hard question.  I might go for a big antipasto platter that included farro salad, sformati, and various crostini. That would be followed by pasta with arugula and pancetta, a big veal shank with roasted potatoes and vegetables from the garden, a nice cheese course, and a folded peach tart with mascarpone. I think I could go happily into the hereafter with that fond farewell.

3.  Assuming that you love Cortona and Tuscany, because you live there, what other favorite area of Italy do you like to spend time in and why?

I love Rome, the city with the biggest heart and the deepest resonance with civilization as we know it.  Venice, Friuli, Florence, Capri, Sicily. . . the beat goes on. I could spend five lifetimes in Italy.

—

And thanks to Ed and Frances, I have not one, but two copies of this beautiful cookbook to give away!

TO ENTER THE GIVEAWAY:

1.  Leave a comment on this post telling us why you’d like to win a copy of the cookbook.

Optional Entries {you must leave a separate comment for EACH additional entry to count}

2. Follow My Melange on TWITTER

3.  RT the following:  I just entered to win a copy of @FrancesMayes ‘s cookbook from @MyMelange you can enter here http://bit.ly/JdWGMy

4.  Like Melange Travel on FACEBOOK

5.  Follow My Melange on PINTEREST and pin the cookbook photo.

6.  Subscribe to My Melange’s RSS feed or emails.

7.  Follow Frances Mayes on TWITTER

8.  Like France Mayes on FACEBOOK

The fine print : Contest is open to US and Canadian addresses only. Contest is open until May 25, 2012 midnight EST. Two winners will be drawn by random number generator.  Winners have 48 hours to confirm or alternate winners will be drawn.

In Boca al lupo!

Sunflowers in Ascoli Piceno

Photo Credit : Flickr

Recently, I was invited to learn more about a province in Le Marche called Ascoli Piceno (As-koh-lee Pee-chay-noh) and its food and wine.  I got the opportunity to hear first hand from a Consigliere Provinciale, a type of local councilman and ambassador who hails from the area, as he talked very passionately and proudly about his home.

Today, I’ll talk a bit about the area and I’ll follow up with posts about the food and wine.

Ascoli Piceno is the southernmost province in Le Marche.  Not only is it the name of the province, but it’s also the name of the capital town within the province.  I know, the name is hard enough to pronounce – so why not make it even more confusing, right?

A lovely piazza in Ascoli Piceno Photo credit : Flickr

Photo credit : Flickr

Why visit Ascoli Piceno?

Other than the food and wine (which of course always tops my list of reasons to visit a place) Ascoli Piceno has

• medieval towns
• Roman ruins
• many historic churches
• charm and authenticity
• a perfect combination of green mountains, little towns, sandy beaches and rocky coastline
• two natural parks, Sibillini National Park and Gran Sasso-Laga National Park
• local craft artisans; goldsmiths, leather, terracotta, majolica, pillow lace
• hardly any tourists.  And it’s inexpensive compared to other popular areas of Italy
• convenient to nearby Umbria and Rome – about 2 hours from each. Abruzzo is even closer.

Things to do

The town of Ascoli Piceno itself has both a new town and an old town.  In the old town, you’ll see plenty of travertine marble, ancient facades, ruins and tiny mazes of streets.  It once held about 200 towers, but today only about 50 are visible.

- Spend time in the Piazza del Popolo, the location of the old forum and one of the most beautiful squares in Italy.

- Visit the 15th century Duomo in the Piazza Arringo and the Crypt of San Emidio, which has wonderful mosaics.

- The Pinocoteca, the 2nd-largest art gallery in Le Marche, housed in the 17th century Palazzo Comunale, is worth a visit.

- Visit any of the more than 14 churches. The Church of San Pietro Martire, a 14th century Gothic church, is said to hold a thorn of Christ’s crown.

- If you like ruins, make sure you see the Porta Gemina, an old Roman twin gate, Porta Tufilla, a tower gate, and the Ponte Tufilo bridge.

- Relax in the Botanical Garden.

- Take a break under the old porticos at the historic Caffe Meletti, founded in 1907, where literary greats like Hemingway once sat.

-Shop at the monthly Antiques Market, which is held on the weekend surrounding the third Sunday of the month.

Coastal towns worth a visit in Ascoli Piceno province

• Cupra Marittima
• Grottammare (has cute windy streets and panoramic views of the sea)
• San Benedetto del Tronto (the place to pick for a sandy beach)
• Aquata del Tranto
• Aquasanta Terme  (site of a Roman thermal spa)

View from Grottammare Le Marche

Photo Credit : Wikimedia

Offida is another lovely nearby town in the province worth a visit.  I’ll be doing a separate post on Offida.

When to visit

Ascoli Piceno can be a lovely year-round destination, but keep in mind that since it is near mountains, it gets snow.  So if you’re a ski bunny, winter might be a good time.  If not, spring, summer or fall are all nice. Or you may want to time a visit to coincide with these fun events:

• La Quintana – The first Sunday in August, a historical Renaissance parade takes place where everyone dresses in costume.  It’s followed by La Quintana, the town’s version of a palio, where six knights compete for each of the six neighborhoods.
• Carnavale – It’s not just for Venice!  In February, Ascoli Piceno and Offida both have their version of Carnavale.  Locals dress in costume and masks and take to the streets to dance, party and perform.

How to visit

The nearest airports would be Pescara in Abruzzo or Ancona in Le Marche.

As with most smaller regions in Italy, it’s best visited by car, so you can explore all the nooks and crannies and discover your own little secret treasures.  That said, Ascoli Piceno is on the San Benedetto del Tronto–Ascoli Piceno railway, which is a branch of the Adriatic railway.  There is local rail service to some towns in the province.  For rail stations and schedules visit Trenitalia.com

For more information on toursim to the area visit the Ascoli Piceno official website.

Have you been to Ascoli Piceno?  Share your tips and experiences in the comments.

• Need help planning a trip to the Le Marche region?  Click here to see how I can help.

Perhaps I’m not being clear.  So, I hope you’ll indulge me for a moment while I shout this from the rooftops….GAWD I LOVE TRAIN TRAVEL IN ITALY (and France).  Thanks, I feel better now.

Up to this point, train travel in Italy has been a government run operation, that company being Trenitalia.

But, not so fast.  There is a new game in town.  A new high-speed rail service owned by none other than Ferrari.  It’s called Italo.

And it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the sleek, modern trains sport a Ferrari red color. The spacious cars with panoramic windows and leather seats, offer built-in TV screens, direct cable TV, and free wifi throughout.  Giddy with excitement I am!  Dare I say, jumping for joy?

Service began on April 28, and last week, Italo made it’s first trip from Rome to Naples, traveling at speeds of 186 MPH, in a mere 70 minutes!

Note : The Rome to Naples train leaves from Tiburtina station, not Termini station.

Currently, the trip on the high-speed Frecciarossa train (which leaves from Termini) is 39€ for second class.  As best I can tell, the lowest price on the new Italo train is 20€ for Smart Class. Me likey.  Me likey alot.

Right now Italo has eight routes, with more planned for the future, which will form a Y-shaped map between Turin (left fork), Venice (right fork) and Naples (bottom of the Y).  Three classes of cars include Club, Prima and Smart.  Cinema cars have large screens and meals are served by smartly-dressed attendants and catered by Eataly.

Current cities served are Milan, Bologna, Florence, Rome and Naples.  Venice, Turin, Padova and Salerno will be added later.

Tickets can be purchased online, at self-service ticket machines or at Casa Italo – part office, part club, which are both at rail stations.  There is also a frequent-rider program called Italo Più.

I think their website is beyond fantastic! Helpful, easy to navigate, prominently featured specials, true to life virtual tours and a ‘best price’ calendar, so if you’re price sensitive, it’s easy to find the best deal.

Let’s just say, if their trains and service are as good as their website, than color me impressed!

Tip: Find cool virtual tours of the different cars, lounge, cinema and Casa Italo here.

I’ve emailed the company to obtain more information about how booking works from the U.S.  I’ll make sure to keep you updated as soon as I get some of my questions answered.

I’m pretty excited about what this means for train travel in Italy.  I think in this case, competition is good, but I am also reserving my judgement until we hear more reports.  So far though, it looks very promising. VERY. PROMISING.

And you bet your bippy I’ll be hopping an Italo train the first chance I get!

Are you as excited as I am? Would you ride the rails in style on Italo?

• Need help deciding on a rail itinerary or booking train reservations for Italy?  Get in touch, I’d love to help!

I’m hoping the old saying about Italy pictures being worth a thousand words rings true.  Here are some favorites:

Fountain with lovely tiles in Bari

Ornate iron gates

Rustic Menu

Portico in Martina Franca

Beautiful orange clemetines trailing down buildings

Bowls of clementines on the table are a typical dessert

Palm trees against a facade in Alberobello

View of Alberbello and the Trulli rooftops

Clusters of plump inky black olives on the trees

Ubiquitous ocher facade with hanging laundry. Always charming.

Unspoiled beach on the Adriatic Sea

Tiny alleyway in Ostuni

Tending to the olive trees and artichokes

And speaking of artichokes!

Vintage wheels

No shortage of beautiful frescoes and mosaics in the churches

Stolling Bari's Lungomare

A perfect Italian photo op!

Green landscapes blend with the deep blue water

Statue in Ostuni

Pretty Piazza at dusk in Lecce

Peering into an archway into Bari's Old Town

Trani Cathedral at night

Gorgeous setting for an afternoon lunch

Sign in the white town of Ostuni

This menu and courtyard beckoned me to enter

And so did this cute little cafe

Fabulous and delicious food products from Puglia

Deserted pathway in Ostuni

Olive trees are everywhere, even a main square in Lecce

So, are you in love with Puglia yet?  Which is your favorite photo and why?

When it comes to Italian food, I can never refuse a tasty salty pork product.  What would one do without a good pancetta or guanciale for pasta carbonara?  Or a Tuscan-style grilled pork chop with garlic and rosemary. And let’s not forget proscuitto and all of the other salumi that marry perfectly with cheese and  glass of wine.  Pork = good.

One of my favorites, which hails from Italy, happens to be Porchetta, pronounced por-ket-ah. It’s a type of pork roast, where a suckling pig is “cleaned out” and stuffed with garlic, salt, pepper, and a blend of herbs and spices like rosemary, fennel or sage, depending on the cook and the recipe. And did I mention SALT?  Yeah, it’s heavy on the salt.

The lil’ piggy is then wrapped back up and roasted, likely with the head on, until the skin (or cracklin’) is a deep bronze color and so crispy you’ll need to be careful not to break a tooth – though it would be worth it. The inside is perfectly moist and juicy.

In Italy you’ll find porchetta all over the country, in butcher shops, but mostly served out of a truck, on bread as Italian street food.  Porchetta originated in the Lazio region, in central Italy and in fact the town of Ariccia pays homage to Porchetta in the form of a food festival, or sagra every September.

I miss the porchetta in Italy.

But as luck would have it, I didn’t have to miss it very long because there is a spot in New York City aptly named Porchetta.  And I’ll give you one guess as to what they serve.

Yeah, I know.  Too easy.  And very clever name, don’t you think?  I mean, you immediately know you won’t find chinese food on the menu.

After reading that the chef/owner is known for her rustic Italian cuisine and trained in Tuscany to learn how to make an authentic Porchetta, I was hopeful.  I skipped joyfully, drooling the whole way, to the tiny little store front in the east village which has five stools at a countertop and a bench outside.  Not fine dining – classy street food.

Porchettaoffers up sandwiches or plates, with tasty Italian-inspired sides like roasted rosemary potatoes, greens with garlic and Tuscan beans.

My $10 sandwich was very tasty, though a tad drier than I prefer, but it did rival some of the best in Italy.  If you are dreaming of  good Porchetta and can’t make it to Italy, give Porchetta a try.  You’ll be very glad you did.

——–

Porchetta
110 East 7th Street
New York City
212-777-2151

Are you a foodie heading to Italy?  Click here to see how I can create your custom foodie adventure!

]]> http://mymelange.net/mymelange/2012/03/italian-food-porchetta.html/feed 1 http://mymelange.net/mymelange/2012/03/tips-authentic-travel-italy.html http://mymelange.net/mymelange/2012/03/tips-authentic-travel-italy.html#comments Thu, 15 Mar 2012 09:00:44 +0000 robin http://mymelange.net/?p=6099

Rome can be touristy, but it doesn't have to be

I was having a conversation with a potential client the other day who is in the early stages of planning a first trip to Italy.  Since he is Italian-American, he wanted it to be an authentic experience.  As we were talking about possible spots to put on his itinerary, he stated he was thinking of avoiding places like Rome and Florence because they had become too Americanized.

While the authentic experience part was music to my ears, because that’s what I’m all about, it also broke my heart just a bit to think someone would avoid places that have rich history, art and wonderful food, just because they get a bad wrap.

I think it would be a shame to travel all the way to Italy for the first time and perhaps not see the Colosseum or miss out on some wonderful art in Florence.

Don’t get me wrong, if you aren’t interested in ruins or art, and instead choose Tuscany in favor of food, wine and stunning views –  that’s perfectly fine. It’s important to pick places that appeal to you for the right reasons. But to avoid some otherwise lovely, interesting cities simply because of American influence seems a shame to me.

I don’t think the place should determine whether you have an authentic experience – I think it’s what you do and how you choose to spend your time in that place that matters.

It got me thinking of ways to have an authentic experience no matter what large city you may visit.  Here are 10 tips to make it happen.

1.  Don’t avoid the tourist attractions, but do your research and pick a less crowded time to visit.  Obviously, an off-season trip will translate to fewer crowds. When planning your days, break them up by alternating a tourist attraction with something more low-key and/or far removed.  Spread it out so you get a bit of local flavor in between visits to things that might be more Americanized or crowded.  This way you get the best of both worlds.

2.  Before you leave, make it a point to find out what the locals love to do in the areas you’re planning on going.  And go do it!

3. Spend time with a local guide, whether it be to see a historic site, museum or just for a general tour around the area.  Native guides will know stories that others won’t.  They bring a place to life and they can regale stories of the past and will also be a font of knowledge for lesser, local known spots to visit or dine.

4. Get out of the city.  Take a day trip to a lesser-known spot a short car or train ride away.  Perhaps not the one that’s the most popular with other visitors.

5.  Opt for accommodations with local charm, preferably in a neighborhood far enough removed from the city center – but within easy access of things you’d like to see.  Avoid big chain hotels and stay in something smaller, run by locals.  A B&B, an apartment or maybe even a room in a home with a family are all good bets.

Local Roman man painting shutters

6.  When eating out – try to avoid the city center.  There are exceptions, but at the very least, avoid places that have a ‘tourist menu’ or have staff heckling you to enter. Try to eat what and where the locals eat. Don’t seek out spots that proudly list spaghetti and meatballs or fettucine alfredo on their menus, which are Italian-American creations.

7.  Speak the local language when you can.  It will automatically make you feel like you’re far from home.

8.  If you’re a shopper – stay away from the big brands you can easily find at home.  Instead – seek out family owned shops, artisan workshops and smaller boutiques.  Not only will you be shopping with residents, but you’ll often get a peek into time-honored traditions and find one-of-a-kind items.

9.  Skip the taxis.  Walk or take public transport. Nothing makes you feel more like a local than being sandwiched in with neighborhood folk on the bus or metro during rush hour.

10.  Take the time to just stroll around a local neighborhood and pay special attention to what’s happening around you.  This is what’s known as soaking in the atmosphere.  Catch a glimpse of the people on their cell-phones, the shop owner who is sweeping in front of his shop, the man in the photo above just painting his shutters, the locals attending mass in a beautiful church.  That is where you’ll find the real Italy.

How do you ensure you have an authentic experience when you travel?

 Interested in making your trip to Italy or France an authentic one?  Click here to see how I can help!

I’ve known about and have sampled many a Banfi wine over the years, including their range of Chianti, Chianti Classico and Riserva.  They have over 30 varietals. I was happy to try a few old favorites alongside some that I’ve never sampled before at a Banfi wine tasting dinner.

Ready, set, drink.

I was fascinated and highly engaged by the presentation given by the Banfi wine ambassador, who was in true Italian fashion – charming, witty, interesting and entertaining.

Some fun things I learned about the Banfi family, their property and Tuscan wine:

• Originally Banfi began as a wine importer in New York in 1919, but the family owned vineyard estate in Tuscany wasn’t established until 1978.
• Though the family is Mariani, the Banfi name was a nod to the creator’s Aunt, Theolinda Banfi, who had ties to the Pope. Reportedly, she is buried under Vatican City.
• 40 million year old whale fossils have been found on the property – a testament to the land, rich in clay and calcium on which the vines are planted
• Currently they also have an interest in Bollo and Fontana Candida.
• As well as vineyards in Tuscany, they also have vineyards in Piedmont and have other properties including in Chile.
• The family has been in the wine business for 93 years
• Banfi is the first winery in the world recognized for exceptional Environmental, Social & Ethical Responsibility
• Banfi introduced Lambrusco to the US Market in 1967.  Reunite anyone? Yep, that was and is still them.
• Turns out that Super Tuscan is a made up name, not a an actual Italian wine classification and therefore has no actual restrictions.  It’s describes a blend of Tuscan grapes – usually Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot

During the tasting and dinner with wine pairings that  followed, I had the privilege of tasting a selection of about ten different Banfi wines.  Below are a few of them, along with notes and pairings.

1.  San Angelo Pinot Grigio 2010.  Light straw color, with flavors of pear,peach and anise. Pairs well with fish, white meats.  Great aperitivo.

2.  Centine Rosso 2009.  A value priced Super Tuscan.  Pairs with a wide range of cheese, pasta, pizza, roasts and game

3.  Brunello di Montalcino, 2006 DOCG.  Stellar and complex red, aged for four years, two of those in Slavonian oak.  It’s full-bodied, elegant, intense and luscious.  Deep ruby-red in color with hints of garnet, it tastes of licorice, cassis and black cherry.  Clearly one of the most expensive Tuscan wines.  Enjoy Brunello with game, red meat and aged hearty cheese.

For a similar wine, at a lesser price, try the younger brother Rosso di Montalcino, often referred to as baby Brunello.

4.  Rosa Regale 2o10. A sweet sparkling red wine which is made from 100% Brachetto grapes from the Piedmont region and harvested early in the morning.  It’s a bright cranberry color and tastes of rose and raspberry.  Perfect for an aperitivo or dessert and should be served chilled. Goes well with seafood, cheeses, spicy food and even chocolate.

5.  Floras Moscadello di Montalcino DOC Late Harvest.  An untuous sweet dessert wine with a golden color.  Tastes of raisin, honey and dried-apricots.  Other than dessert, try it with savory appetizers.

Roasted lamb paired with Banfi Brunello di Montalcino

The Banfi estate itself is gorgeous.  The medieval castle, known as Poggio al Mura, ‘walled castle’, has ancient Etruscan roots.  Left in ruins after World War II, the Mariani family restored the castle.  Perched high upon a hilltop, surrounded by green rolling hills and perfect vines, the castle is the perfect setting for wine tours and tastings; or overnight stays in the charming guest rooms at, Il Borgo.

Over 7,000 acres of vines are also littered with fruit, nut and olive trees, all of which play a role in the flavor imparted on the wines.  You can see and hear more about their history and the property in this video tour.

Interested in touring vineyards and tasting wine in Tuscany?  Click here to get in touch, I’d love to arrange something for you!

Instead, I’m talking about plump, supple rounds of creamy goodness that are stored in liquid. So white and shiny that you can almost see your reflection in it. Press your finger into the firm flesh and it actually moves – it’s alive. Nothing beats the taste, consistency and nutritional value of real mozzarella cheese, freshly made in Italy.

So, imagine how excited I was to hear about a shrine to all things mozzarella had popped up on Rome’s Campo dei Fiori, back in 2004.  A new restaurant concept known as a mozzarella bar.

Photo Credit : Flickr

It’s called Obikà and they specialize in mozzarella cheese.  Not just any mozzarella cheese either.  Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP, lovingly known as bufala mozzarella. It’s a mouthful, but really just a way of saying that it’s some very high-quality cheese made from the milk of water buffalo owned by selected producers in Paestum and Agro Pontino areas of southern Italy.

Along with mozzarella, Obikà serves typical artisanal products from various regions of Italy.  Salumi consists of Prosciutto Crudo San Daniele, Prosciutto Toscana, Mortadella di Prato and more .  Tasty sides of olives, fresh arugula, cherry tomatoes, roasted vegetables, basil pesto, caponata and artichokes can accompany your tasting.

In most of the locations, you can certainly grab a table, inside or in some cases outside – but part of the fun for me is the bar atmosphere.  I like grabbing a stool at the bar, talking to the folks behind the counter, drooling over all of the fesh ingredients and watching the dishes being prepared.

Trust me when I say on a recent visit, I had a hard time choosing what to have.  I sampled both the fresh and smoked mozzarella.  Both balls arrived on a plate, served on a bed of fresh spinach and arugula. I washed it all down with a glass of Barbera d’Asti.

Smoked and Fresh Bufala Mozzarella at Obika

I couldn’t resist trying some prosciutto, which was also simply presented with the same arugula and cherry tomatoes alongside.  As is should, it melted in by mouth like salty butter.  And I drizzled lots of flavorful Tuscan olive oil right from the bottle on my crusty bread.  It tasted as if I grabbed a handful of grass blades and stuffed them in my mouth.  Yeah, that good.

Prosciutto di Parma from Obika

In the mood for something more substantial? They have a menu full of appetizers, panini, pasta, salads and pizza as well.  The Italian desserts aren’t to be missed and extensive Italian wine list is impressive.

Since opening that first bar in Rome in 2004, they have added additional bars in Rome, Milan, Florence, Fidenza and Palermo and two airport locations - Fiumicino and Malpensa.  Locations outside Italy include London, Tokyo, New York, Los Angeles, Toronto and Istanbul.

Technically, that makes them a “chain” – a type of establishment that I’m usually vehemently opposed to.  But not Obikà.  For some reason, the entire concept, quality, use of imported artisanal products, and the flavor of the food really appeal to me. The mozzarella is made in Italy and imported three times a week, so the cheese you’ll be served is guaranteed to be fresh.

Obikà is one chain I don’t mind recommending and visiting frequently.  Make sure to seek one out next time you’re traveling where they are located and come back and tell me about your experience!

I have so many wonderful moments and memories, and it’s no surprise that many of them involve food.  It’s hard for me to narrow them down to just ten.  But these are the ones that top my extensive list.  Perhaps my list will give you some ideas for things to do in Puglia.

Hill town of Ostuni

1.  Walking around the old town of Ostuni. Dubbed the white city, it’s filled with tiny nooks and crannies, alleys and lots of steps that seemed to lead nowhere.  I loved getting lost here.

2.  Trying soft, creamy, buttery, fresh, burrata for the first time.  Heavenly.

3.  Getting to see the trulli up close and personal and learning a bit of the history behind them.

4.  Watching the ladies make (and sell!) homemade orecchiette on the streets of Bari Vecchia (old town), as they do day in and day out.  I also enjoyed eating it for several meals during my trip.

Handmade Orecchiette in Bari

5.  Visiting the tiny workshop of an older, adorable olive wood-carver, while he explained all about the different cooking utensils he carves and what they are used for.

6.  Meeting my fun, knowledgeable guides who spent time showing me around certain spots and delighted me with stories of their region.  I had such a great time with them and they were responsible (as most excellent guides are!) for breathing life into Puglia and helping me fall in love with the region. They each had bubbly personalities and a wicked sense of humor; I can still hear their charming English-speaking, Italian-accented voices.  It makes me smile every time.

7.  Touching one of the millions of olive trees in the region.  Running my hands over the gray, knotted and gnarly trunks.  Getting to see the plump black olives dangling from the branches.  I won’t pretend I didn’t hug a few of those beautiful, ancient trees.

Lovely olive trees in Puglia

8.  Stumbling across a gem of a food shop in Alberobello where the sweet owners were kind enough to offer me tastings of local cheese and meats, olive and truffle paste on crostini, olive oil and even a sampling of about five local wines. A truly authentic spot.

9. Strolling along the streets of Trani, and both Bari’s old town and Lungomare at night.  Most Italian cities take on such a magical quality in the evening.  It’s the combination of streetlights, cobblestones and very tall ancient buildings.

10.  My best memory I’ve saved for last.  Spending an afternoon with locals in their home while enjoying a lovely homemade meal of pasta with speck, fresh cheeses, meats, wine, taralli and chocolate figs that were delivered fresh from the hosts’ cousin.  An afternoon of good food, good friends, lots of laughter and wonderful memories.

Ready to create your own memories of Puglia?  Click here to see how I can help!