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A stroll around Canal Saint-Martin

On my first visit to Paris, one of the *many* things on my to-do list was a stroll along the Canal Saint- Martin.  This was not because I had heard about it, or read about it.  No, it was really just because I saw the scene from Amelie, where she is squatting, balancing on one of the locks while the water is pouring in as she is skipping stones.  That scene spoke to me.  Maybe it was the quiet tranquil spot, maybe the leaves on the trees looked graceful, perhaps it was the amazing camera work…or it could have even been the music that was playing in the scene. For whatever reason…I had to be a part of it!  Yep, I guess I am a romantic.

Sadly, I ran out of precious time on my first trip and vowed to the heavens above, that when I returned to Paris, I would make it there.  As luck would have it, my dear friend Anne, knows the area well as her husband owns a Pharmacie in the 10th arrondissement. I will tell you much more about him and our visit there in a later post. 

We were to meet Anne at the Louis-Blanc Metro station.  As we exited up the steps and reached ground level, I looked right, I looked left, but no sign of her.  At that point I heard the most lovely sound in all of Paris….Anne, calling my name.  It is a very surreal experience to have someone call your name in a foreign city where you are anonymous and hardly speak the language.  Talk about culture shock!  It is special when your name is *sung* by a lovely stylish French women sitting at a cafe across from the Metro at a busy intersection.  In English, with her charming French accent (which she is quick to make fun of, while I am enamored by it) her voice, carried by the breeze, called my name…"Robeeeen, Robeeeen".  It was the sweetest sound to hit my ears since I had been traveling to Europe. At that point, I knew "I have arrived"!  A Parisienne is calling my name and waving to me!

After a quick espresso, we head out toward the Quai de Valmy, Anne leading the way.  It was a lovely Fall day.  First, we stop to admire the canal.

We discuss the way the locks work and I wonder aloud if we will get to see a barge coming in.

As luck would have it, we see a barge coming, so we wait…

The canal is designed so barges traveling to and from the Seine, can make the transition into the canal.  The water level is different in both bodies of water.  When the barge enters the canal, the lock behind it shuts

The barge sits low, waiting for the water to start flowing in.  The front passengers must have been forewarned…

Meanwhile, the floodgates in the front are getting ready to open…

The lock s-l-o-w-l-y begins to open, letting in small dribbles, streams and than finally gushes water.  When the lock is fully open, the barge goes on its way…

You can take a barge cruise, but be forewarned.  They are time consuming and rather boring as you must wait for about 15 minutes at each lock while the water rushes in.  You have nothing to do but wait!  This is why I opted to be on the quay, watching.  More info on taking this cruise is available through Canauxrama. 

From here we continue our walk and stop at the fun, funky and fabulous boutique, Antoine et Lili.  We come to another bridge…

This looks like a good spot to cross…

Let’s stop for a photo op…

We cross the bridge and see the famous Hotel du Nord, which is no longer a hotel, but a cafe.  Anne informs us that though many people think the movie was shot on location in Paris, but in fact it was shot in a studio in France, where sets were made to look exactly as the original.  We burst out laughing as my funny French friend imitated the actress, Arletty, by sounding like a French canard when she uttered the famous words from the film, "Atmosphere, Atmosphere, do I look like an atmosphere?" We find a cafe named L’ Atmosphere, just steps away. Coincidence, I think not!   

Looking below, we realize that this part of the road actually swings back and forth, letting barges pass through. Now that would be a sight!

Looking back, I get my Amelie moment.  This looks like the spot where she was skipping stones.  I hear the accordion music playing in my head…

Since I have now accomplished what I have set out to do, we agree that nourishment is in order. Join me tomorrow, when the adventure continues.  See which wine bar we visited..and where we had lunch.  You can’t very well spend an afternoon with the Foodie Froggy, without sampling any food!!  C’est non possible!