I often get asked about where I sleep and eat when I come back from my travels. When I find things worth recommending I am all for shouting them from the rooftops! Though, that can be a double-edged sword. One must weigh the recommendations of treasures with the certainty that such places will become over-run with tourists.
The result is often not being able to get a room/seat at these places on a return visit. Or you find that the establishments will develop such cult followings-that they rest firmly and lazily on their laurels and the quality goes south for the winter…only never to return again.
Be that as it may, I generally decide that on the off-chance six of the twenty-odd people who actually read this blog and decide to visit Old Quebec City, and follow any of my recommendations, will hardly single-handedly scare the locals and the quality right outta the place.
But let me be clear here. I am all about the budget when traveling, so if you are looking for any recommendations for a 5-star luxury resort or a Michelin-starred restaurant, you have definitely come to the wrong place!
But, if you like bang for your hard-earned buck, then your money train has just pulled into the station! Whoo-woot.
Where to stay in Old Quebec City?
Located on rue Saint-Louis in the heart of Old Quebec in Upper Town is a cute budget gem called the Auberge Saint-Louis. This is a quaint and basic hotel that is clean and has comfortable beds, rooms ranging in price from $69-$129 Canadian per night. The cheaper rooms are on the tiny and dark side, but all are decorated in zen-like monochromatic colors of white, taupe, grey and mocha.
Rooms have a small desk and cable TV. Splurge for a suite, facing the street with large French windows that let in tons of warm light, a private bath and room enough to dance. Our room had three large windows that were adorned with the most beautiful stained-glass panels above them. The rate also included a full breakfast-for-two at a neighboring restaurant, just two blocks walk from the Auberge.
And though I can’t find reference to it on the website, if my memory serves me correctly, they have free Wi-Fi.
Where to eat in Old Quebec City?
- For a mid-day coffee and croissant break, head to Paillard. They have the best croissants in Old Quebec and their cafe au lait is served up in bowls, in true French fashion. They have great salads and sandwiches for lunch too. Grab a crusty-doughy Parisian-style baguette for the road.
- Looking for traditional French bistro food at downright bargain prices in a lively atmosphere? Follow the locals over to Les Frères de la Côte, which is the restaurant in the Hotel du Vieux Quebec. Choose from salmon, pizza, confit de canard and osso bucco. But the deal of the century is the never-ending bowls of mussels, prepared in your choice of three different broths, (with extra bread for broth-sopping) all for under $16.
- For a special treat, head to rue Saint-Paul in Lower Town to experience a touch of the South of France. Mistral Gagnant feels like it was plucked right from Provence. The brightly colored decor combined with the seafood-forward menu offers an experience only the French Riviera could rival. Splurge on the authentic Marseilles classic fish soup, bouillabaisse, complete with croutons and rouille. Snag one of three tables in the front window and finish off with a Pastis to help it all go down smoothly.
- The Café Experience. Many long for it and I am no exception. And no, I am not recommending a Starbucks! I found a hidden-gem-of-a-café, in the back streets of Upper Town. Perfect for breakfast, coming in from the rain for a shot of espresso at the bar, wasting hours on your laptop or for a delicious home-made lunch prix-fixe for about $12 Canadian. Chez Temporel exudes charm and warmth with it’s dim lighting, yellow walls and mahogany-colored tables. The croissants are baked in-house and you can milk your coffee all day while reading the paper without fear of being kicked to the curb.