Macaron {mah kah ronh}
As a kid growing up I watched my grandmother enjoy macaroons {mack ah roons}. The coconut ones. Yes, the ones that weigh five pounds per cookie. And leave half and inch of residual oil behind on your fingers. That is what I thought was a macaroon.
And then before I went to Paris, all I heard was how I had to try macaroons.
Imagine my surprise when I got to Paris, entered Ladurée for the first time, heard them pronouned mah kaaaaaraaah (not very tasty sounding. more like something the cat would cough up) and saw them available in a rainbow of colors and flavors.
Macarons – these are not your Grandmother’s macaroons!
The Short Guide to Foodie French, says this about macarons :
If the word looks like “macaroni”, it also shares it etymology, since the French macaron (spelled macaroon in English) allegedly comes from the Italian maccherone or maccerone, describing a kind of pasta.
It seems the macaron dates back to the middle ages, but the word, first recorded in French in the 16th century, suggests the pastry was imported during the Renaissance. Also known as massepain in some parts of France, the macaron is a round- shaped cookie with a crunchy crust and a soft interior, made of almonds and a merinque preparation. It may be flavored with chocolate, vanilla, honey or coffee.
The fancier Ladurée macarons found in Paris are quite different from the original recipe as they feature two macaron shells stuffed with ganache and come in just about any flavor and color.
For the most inventive macarons, we must thank pasty master Pierre Hermé for his creativity, which earned him worldwide recognition. Indeed, his creations can be found in both Paris and Tokyo. For typical traditional handmade macarons, those of Boulay, located in the Moselle province of Lorraine, are bound to please one and all, as well as the Saint-Emillion macarons, near Bordeaux. For free samplings, note that macaron day is celebrated in France on March 20th. “
I have had the pleasure of taste-testing some of the best macarons in Paris. At Ladurée, Pierre Hermé and Lenôtre.
Ladurée still remains my fav- perhaps because of their divine packaging or because of their elegant and sophisticated salons. It could also be the memory of my first light, crunchy and creamy bite that took place at the Ladurée on the Place de la Madeleine.
In addition to the flavors listed above, you can enjoy raspberry, basil, lemon, violet, lime, mint, and rose.
Oh there is just something about those old Italian windows. You know by now that I have a fetish for windows and doors, among other things.
Last week I showed you a collection of photos sneaking a peak behind Italian doorways.
This week, it's windows.
The older, the better. Paint peeling- even better still. And there is just something about those shutters that send my heart thumpin. Pitter-patter. Pitter-patter.
Shuttered or plain, open or closed, with or without flowers cascading down the front – I love them all!
Enjoy some of my favorite Roman windows.
Which one is your favorite?
A few weeks ago, a good blogging friend of mine wrote to me, telling the story of the horrible experience she had putting up a family member in her home for a ten day vacation.
She was nice enough to open her house, for free, to a cousin who was old enough to know better and I was just appalled at some of the things this so called “houseguest” did. I could hear and see the frustration in her voice and quite frankly I felt that she has been wronged- and I was going to do my part to try and make it right.
I am not going to get into the specifics here, not because I’d like to protect the guilty (she deserves to be shamed!) but, more so to protect my friend and keep her in her family’s good graces.
I thought we could all learn a few things from her experience. So, I’ll offer some tips on How to be a Good Houseguest.
For the purpose of this post, we will define houseguest as someone who is invited to stay, free of charge, in a friend or family member’s home. There is a big difference between a houseguest and a paying guest in a hotel. Please, keep this in mind.
1. You are your own maid. Whether you keep your own home spic and span or you live in the sheer filth of a pig sty, in someone else’s home, you need to be a clean freak. Make your bed, don’t leave things strewn all over the house, straighten the bathroom, fix your own meal and do your dishes, clean up after yourself. If you make a mess, clean it up. Do not expect maid service as a houseguest! End of story.
2. Ask and adhere to the house schedule. There is a good chance that the family you stay with is NOT on vacation, and must go about their normal lives, with you in the way. Schedule your shower, any food preparation and approved computer and electronic time around the family, so that you don’t disturb them. This way you won’t be spending hours in the shower, holding up someone from getting to their job – which incidentally pays for the house that you are staying in, free of charge.
3. Contribute something. Remember that boatload of cash you are saving, staying with family for free? Well, why not pay it forward? Offer to take your hosts to dinner one night. Or cook them dinner at home. Buy some groceries, bring your host a bottle of wine. Anything, really. Just show your appreciation!
4. Just because it is there, doesn’t mean you should use it! Ask before helping yourself to things in the home. Ask to use the computer, the stereo, the TV. If you want to watch a movie (when no one else is using the TV of course) make sure you have someone show you how to properly operate remotes and electronic equipment. The last thing you want is to break something or cause your host anguish over reprogramming or diagnosing an issue that you created.
5. Don’t bring unwanted visitors. This is a big one! Remember, you don’t live in this home. It is never appropriate to bring a stranger (read axe-murderer) into the home without permission. And certainly not for a one-nite-stand sleep over. If you need to meet up with someone, do it in a public location- like a restaurant or a park.
6. Don’t expect to be entertained. Bring your own chock full, pre-planned itinerary and make sure to have plenty of things to do. You can certainly ask for suggestions, but don’t expect travel agent or concierge service. Nobody wants you lazing around the house all day in your pajamas, either. Unless otherwise discussed, you must assume your hosts will go about their daily lives- shuttling kids, working, shopping and things they must do during the day. They are not your personal entertainment. Nor should you expect them to be your personal taxi cab!
7. The computer is not yours. If you want to use it, again you ask. If the only convenient time is 2am, then guess what? That is when you use it! Otherwise, bring our own laptop (hey, what a novel idea) or find a close internet cafe where you can surf to your heart’s content! And for goodness sake- do not visit inappropriate web sites or download programs and hundreds of vacation photos without permission!
8. Remember who pays the utilities. Long after you leave, the utility bills will start rolling in. No one wants to see an additional $75 phone bill or that you ordered 10 pay-per-view movies without even a mention. Don’t use the hosts phone for calls. Pay for any movies that you ordered. Don’t take 3 hour showers or leave every light on in the blessed house when you leave or turn the the air-conditioning on full blast, when the fan would do just fine. Be aware that your presence will automatically increase utility bills and do your part to minimize those charges.
9. Do your laundry. Offer to wash your sheets and towels when you are leaving. Remake the bed with fresh sheets before you go. Clean your room. Leave it just like it was when you arrived. It should look like you were never there.
10. Say thank you. And then follow it up by sending a thank you note when you get home. This should go without saying, but Emily Post and Amy Vanderbilt wouldn’t have it any other way. It is the right thing to do. And your host will be more likely to invite you back the next time.
As a little bonus, I am going to throw in a few tips for anyone considering opening up their home to someone for a vacation stay. Please give it the serious consideration it deserves and make sure you set boundaries and communicate said boundaries long before your guests even set foot on your doorstep.
If your rules are not followed, or you feel you are being disrespected in any way, remember whose house it is and don’t hesitate to supply your guest with an already prepared list of several nearby budget hotel options (handwritten on elegant paper and tied with a pretty ribbon of course) and show them the door.
I know some of you out there have horror stories just waiting to be told about unruly houseguests! Now is your chance. Share your stories in the comments. And what additional tips can you offer one for being a good houseguest?
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And I know Cherrye’s might have a few stories, since she runs a B&B. Visit her for more travel tips today!
You may remember that my first trip to Rome was a bit of a debacle. It wasn't exactly on my list of the Top 5, not even my Top 10 places to return to in Italy.
But, then a ridiculous airfare deal just dropped in my lap…and I am not one to say no to anything related to Italy, easily.
I was practically convinced that this trip to Rome would be so much better.
Why, you ask? Well, several reasons. Let's touch on them quickly, shall we?
1. We only visited Rome for 3 days the last time, which certainly wasn't enough. Armed with seven whole days, and a promise not to visit any museums, or repeat anything from our last visit, we were confident we would have a slower pace to take it all in.
2. In the months leading up to our trip, I had met some fabulous on-line friends who were going to be in Rome. A few even live there. Both expats and Romans alike. One in particular promised me that she would show me her Rome. How can you go wrong?
3. We were not staying in the touristy city center. This time we picked a cute Roman neighborhood. Surely that, plus my lists of must-eat trattorias, wine bars and cafes would go along way to keeping us happy.
So, with a whole week, no real plan, no museums, a camera, a fistful of Roman contacts, a positive attitude and an open mind, we headed for Rome. To give her yet another chance.
But like last time, we don't get very far before problems arise. A problem with the plane, reroutes us back to our gate. We arrive in Rome four hours later than scheduled.
Next we find that the trains which we planned to take into Rome are not running. No explanations, no confirmed strike. Just a lot of shoulder shrugging and an eerie silence in the train station.
An hour later and 65€ poorer, we were finally dropped off by taxi in front of our Bed and Breakfast, on a brightly lit afternoon. In 100 degree weather. In May. When average temps are normally a pleasant 70 degrees. Our luck had placed us in Rome at the exact time that a heat wave decided to grace the city.
And did I mention that I don't do heat? Which is why we didn't travel in say, July.
Which brings me to our accommodations. Oh, there was air conditioning alright. On a timer. From 8pm to 8am. Which incidentally is the coolest part of the day.
Oh, and then there was the fact that this was supposed to be a working vacation.
Brought the Blackberry and the laptop for just that purpose. Except the blackberry wasn't working and neither the B&B owner, nor I could figure out how to connect to the free-wifi.
So this was our second attempt at a nice Roman welcome. Yeah, right. I think the Roman welcome wagon lost a few wheels and was skidding out of control, headed straight for the Roman ruins.
For the life of me, I can't figure out why when Rome knows full well that we had a hard time getting there the last time, she would make it so hard for us to return- even with our open minds and hopeful hearts.
Rome was off to less than a stellar second start.
The rest of the week proved to be scorchingly hot. We scaled back on many of our fun-in-the-blinding- hot- sun daytime activities and sought shelter under the umbrella shaded tables where we enjoyed early lunches and followed them up with late afternoon siestas in our non-air conditioned room, sans clothes and sheets.
Most of the rest of the week was enjoyable and uneventful, except for the fact that on one of the last trains back from a get together with friends in Garbatella, I got off the Metro stop and, well, Chris didn't.
Oh and the time we took the bus, in the wrong direction, all the way out to the Termini station. And the time I almost got strong armed by a Italian secret service agent guarding a door when I tried to snap a photo of said door.
We did have a great time, wandering the smaller streets of Rome, exploring our Monti neighborhood, meeting up with friends, writers and fellow Italophiles, taking photo after photo, doing research for trip planning and experiencing some of the best pasta, wine, cappuccino and espresso that Rome had to offer.
But through it all, I felt like I was missing something. I couldn't quiet put my finger on it. It really wasn't a tangible thing. It was more like a feeling.
I never got that warm and fuzzy feeling I had when I spent time in other parts of Italy. Like in Venice, Tuscany or Florence.
Visiting those places made me want to live there. I felt a connection. But with Rome, even the second time around, not so much.
In Rome, I was missing that feeling. That connection. Rome is a big city- and I am not really a big city girl. But I think it runs deeper than that because Paris is also a big city, but in Paris, I had the feeling.
Unlike Paris, Rome is not a place where you simply stroll along the river, because the river is cloudy and there is really nothing charming about the quays. There is no ivy dripping down the walls, there aren't any boats trolling tourists to and fro, no neon-signed bars on anchored barges with a sophisticated vibe.
I think Rome is more of a gritty city. If Rome could talk it think it would say:
"Take me as I am- I don't care if you like me or not. I am not gonna change for you. Graffiti will stay where it is, I will not pretty myself up for anyone. I have survived thousands of years, there is blood on these streets, you wouldn't believe what I have been through, I could tell some grizzly stories. So, I have earned my right to be just as I am. Take me or leave me, I don't care. And if you don't like it…I'll kick your ass! You got something to say about it? "
And there is nothing right or wrong about that. It's just the way it is.
So after sitting with all of this for a month or so after my return from Rome, I think I have learned several things that I'd like to share.
And I say that from the standpoint of someone searching to find a connection with an area in Italy that will make me happy and comfortable spending considerable amounts of time, and possibly living, in.
And in this case, Rome will not be my home.
Don't misunderstand me. Rome is a city not to be missed. For its history, its architecture, its churches, its food, its people and its culture. For visiting.
Will I visit Rome again? Absolutely. Will I continue to recommend it to clients, plan trips, give restaurant suggestions? Most definitely.
And though I won't be headed back on the next flight to Rome anytime soon (simply because there are so many places in Italy I have yet to explore {Calabria, Liguria, Cinque Terre, Umbria, Piedmonte} and need to find my Italy) there are still many layers of Rome that I need and would like to uncover at another time down the road.
Secondly, I also learned Rome is best explored in small doses, not for weeks at a time or years on end. Perhaps my love for Rome will grow years from now, when I can visit for just a few days at a time, as a weekend getaway perhaps. Or while getting together with the native Romans and expat friends who call Rome home, sharing stories about their Italy.
For now, I will have to be content with helping others explore Rome through my eyes, now somewhat clouded.
But, I still long for the day that I can appreciate Rome as an expat, while living in my Italy. Wherever my Italy happens to be.
Welcome to another Travel Photo Friday! Can you believe it is July already? Where has the year been going?!
Since we have been focusing on Rome for the better part of two months, I thought it might be nice to change it up a bit.
So, I chose one of my favorites from Florence, Italy.
Now, keep in mind, this photo was a color image, but through the magic of Macbook iPhoto editing, I am able to give it a sepia tone, which if I do say so myself, makes the picture come alive.
The picture was taken from the Ponte Vecchio, which crosses the Arno River in Florence.
I love how the bridge acts as a perfect separation from the sky and the river. I love the cloud patterns, the texture of the ripples on the water, the gorgeous lines and arches of the bridge and even the tiny shadows on the water created by the arches.
I could seriously stare at this one for hours.
And if you'd like to see more of my photos, is just so happens that Julie is featuring another of my Rome beauties on her blog today as well.
And in case you haven't noticed, my Travel Photo Friday well has run dry and I need your photos. That was the whole point afterall.
So, all you travelers out there- please send in your photos-the ones that tell a story, the ones the feature something spectacular, the ones that give you that special feeling when you look at it, along with a short description and you'll be featured here!
Send them along to me at mymelange (at) yahoo (dot) com. And join me for next months edition on August 7th.
And to all those celebrating, Happy July 4th!
Cacio e Pepe is a delicious authentic pasta native to Rome.
And though is tastes sinfully complicated, it is seriously the easiest pasta to make.
But, as in most Italian recipes, the best quality ingredients that money can buy should be used.
The three ingredients: pasta, pecorino romano cheese and lots of freshly-ground spicy black pepper. Alright, maybe you need to add a little bit of butter and some pasta water- but still, so easy!
And though it is a classic Roman dish, it is no surprise that each time we ate, no, rather inhaled it, it was different.
Not really good or bad, but slightly different. Some were creamier, some were cheesier, some had more pepper. And then there was the oh-my-God-my-mouth-is-on-fire kind of spicy.
If you are headed to Rome- stop by your nearest trattoria. It is part of an unwritten Italian law to have it on the menu. And I dare you not to want to order it again before you leave!
In fact- I think I would tell you to leave any trattoria that didn't have it on the menu. No self-respecting Roman trat would be caught dead sans Cacio e Pepe.
Have you ever had Cacio e Pepe? What did you think?