Q&A with Nan McElroy and Book Giveaway
For those of you who don’t know Nan McElroy, she is an American expat living in Venice, Italy (jealous, maybe a little!). Matter of fact, her website is called Living Venice. How appropriate!
I have had the pleasure of getting to know Nan. I consider her a friend and a colleague. Most notably, Nan has published a wonderful series of travel books-which I highly recommend to you and to clients.
Nan agreed to do an interview to kick-off my new website and give away a free copy of one of her books to a lucky reader! But, you’ll have to stick around ’till the end of the interview to find out which one!
Here is our chat. Enjoy!
MM: Nan, why Italy? How did you end up living there?
Nan: It’s odd…I’m not one of those people who always wanted to live in Italy, or who, upon my first visit (in 1995) swooned and went home to pack thinking I’d return to live some storybook version of La Dolce Vita. I had no delusions about the difference between being on vacation here and trying to be productive. I do remember thinking, “I can’t believe this country has been here my whole life and nobody told me.”
Being from the Southeast, I’d had little exposure to Italian culture of any sort, and the difference between Pizza Hut and Olive Garden and the country itself was stupificante, to say the least. I continued to return yearly for a month or more at a time, in ’96 to learn the language, then to travel, research and write “Italy: Instructions for Use.” In the end, the supreme effort it took to leave a stable life as a video editor behind and relocate at cinquant’anni, was motivated purely by what I wanted my daily life to consist of: less time in the car, and more in a less-manic, more-forgiving, arts-investing, food-based culture that’s as agile as it is gracious. Perfect? Macché(certainly not!). But then less face it: neither am I.
MM: And how did you land in Venice?
Nan: It’s Europe’s (and Venice’s) intimacy that suits me. The scale of the city. The water. The absence of cars, and the built-in walking. Being in constant contact with the outdoors. The food. The wine. The prevalence and appreciation of art and artisanship. All facets of daily reality, face-to-face, undeniable. The fact that every relationship is personal, no matter how short-lived, from the bank teller to the restaurant owner to a member of the remiera (boat club) or my singing companion, the barista, the president of the association or the lady from the post office to the ex, all of whom, prima o poi (sooner or later), I’m likely to run into on the street or the vaporetto.
Maybe it’s a quick “ciao,” maybe you’ll stop for a chat (Tutto bene?), maybe it’s a promise to get in touch, but it’s incredibly sustaining…just like the fresh vegetables that arrive by boat from Sant’Erasmo weekly…it creates a tangible “we’re all in this together” atmosphere. And of course, the voga. But we’ll get to that.
MM: What do you love about Venice?
Nan: Going somewhere else and coming back home. I waited ten years for this sensation to wear itself out…and now after fourteen, it still hasn’t. There are times I do feel I live in a sort of Lilliput…in that the rest of the world can have a tendency to recede…but I try to keep things in perspective. Also, no matter where you are in the city, in any sestiere, whether out walking, on a boat, or at home with a window open…you can hear the grand marangona in the San Marco campanile, toll the stroke of midnight. I never tire of hearing it.
MM: Can you share a Venice secret with us, perhaps something not in a guidebook?
Nan: The secret is there aren’t any. If you sit at La Cantina, half of the folks there will have a guidebook talking about that unknown cafe with no menu, marvelous food, great wines and friendly service (I call it Venice’s version of “Cheers”). If you are a local living in almost any remote campo, a writer (with her photographer) will stop you almost daily telling you she is writing a book on “Secret Venice” and then asking to confirm some detail of the oddity that occurred there.
If there are secrets about Venice they have to do with how, rather than what or where. I wish visitors would spend less time worrying about booking the perfect hotel (there are lots) or determining the ideal location (anywhere but San Marco), and more time reading just a smidgen about Venice and her story…it will bring you a whole other awareness of everything you take in when you are here. Keeping in mind that Venice was not originally created as a resort can make a big difference in how you enjoy the city, no matter how little time you have.
That…and spend more time here. It is a cumbersome city and simply takes more effort than others to become orientated to. When you don’t allow that time, you cheat yourself, I think…and frankly, risk wasting money solely due to lack of knowledge of how the city functions.
I will tell you one secret, I think: Orsoni Mosaics. It’s the Other Venetian Glass. Signing up for a class there (three days or a week) is a wonderful way to really connect, literally, with the city’s artisan history…and slow you down enough to really live it. The other “secret” is the voga…but I’ll get to that in a minute.
MM: Do you ever get homesick for the US?
Nan: I miss friends, family, and colleagues, of course…and I am always amazed at how inexpensive things are in the U.S. compared to Europe. I am not homesick for living behind the wheel of a car, though…I love having trains and mass transit, and someone else to do the driving while I read, or work, or nod off…
MM: You and I are alike in that we wear many hats. Can you tell us what you are involved in?
Nan: I do organize travelers time here in Venice; however, I work more often as the “Venice connection” for Italian Travel Consultants as opposed to working directly. One of my most popular services is “Venice: A Welcome Introduction,” a unique, on-arrival orientation that’s marvelous for helping folks get their bearings. I sit people down in a calm location with maps (Venice and vaporetto) and other materials, marking them for booked activities, my suggestions, dining recommendations, and otherwise noting all their options according to interests and the time they have. People seem to find it extremely helpful.
Otherwise, my catch-phrase is “vini, voce, e voga.” For pure pleasure, I study la lyrica (lyric opera) with Sara Bardino (thus the voce, voice), and team up with mezzo-soprano Valentina Borsato and a few other for the occasional concert. (When it goes well, it yields what we refer to as soddisfazione, such satisfaction…)
As for the “vini,” I *should* be an AIS sommelier by February (the exam is not easy and the course is in Italian, so…pray for me). But with all this wonderful wine at a stone’s throw it seemed a shame not to immerse myself in it…so to speak. I’m particularly enjoying getting to know wines made from native varietals by small producers who don’t export, made with as little “correction” as possible; I’m hoping to help clarify the maze for the everyday wine enthusiast through writing, offering visits to local wineries, and on-site introductions to regional wines here in Venice. (I bet €50 you do too like white wine!).
MM: You have a deal, Nan! And speaking of wine, what kind of wine do you prefer?
Nan: I like good wine. That’s all. Good. Balanced, complex. Good. Red, white, French, Italian, any country, sfuso (on tap), invecchiato (aged) , I don’t care. A Corolla for lunch or a Lamborghini for an occasion. Good wine.
I will say that generally, I prefer lower alcohol wines. Complexity seems to shine through more easily, I think. And…you can also enjoy more wine with less risk of negative effects. So…good French wines, when I can get my hands on them, make me absolutely swoon. As a friend puts it, they are the undisputed masters at the techniques to pull every last nuance out of a grape…they have to, being so far north. And unlike high-alcohol “jammier” wines from super-mature fruit, they can have an overall elegance that’s hard to beat. I don’t think you have to be an expert to sense it either (i.e., if I can…).
However, Italian wines are simply smashing for their extraordinary variety, excellence of production, and sheer enjoyability – if that’s a word. Many of the wines produced in the Tre Venezie are in fact low in alcohol, and I’ve really come to appreciate them…they’re just compatible with the way I consume food and alcohol…so it works out great!
MM: Tell us about your Instructions For Use series and which countries we can look forward to seeing next?
Nan: Illustrata Press publishes the Instructions for Use Travel Series (Italy: France: , and Greece: Instructions for Use, and now the new Vap Map Vaporetto Guide). I would love to follow up with Spain, but the truth is that both the travel and publishing industries are undergoing enormous changes almost daily. I’d like to get my bearings a bit before launching into another country. I’m very proud of these pubs though…they serve exactly the purpose I was hoping for: to keep all practical info at folks’ fingertips (because they’ll never remember it all, or have time to locate where they read something on a website when they’re on-site).
MM: What is Voga?
Nan: My all-consuming passion is vogare: to row, Venetian style. If there is a “secret” that lives – or perhaps is disappearing – right under the nose of every single traveler, this is it. “Vogare” in Italian means “to row”: the voga alla veneta is the style unique to Venice and her lagoon, performed standing up, facing forward. “We row with our heads,” one guy tells me. “The rest of the world rows on its ass.” It’s the method the gondoliers employ (look closer, they do not pole); and it has propelled Venetian craft throughout its long history fin dall’inizio: when Dandolo sacked Constantinople, when Bellini and Titian and Tintoretto were painting, when Casanova escaped from the Piombi, and even when Napoleon arrived, up until after WWII, Venetians vogavano, they rowed.For us foresti, we never feel so Venetian as when we row the voga alla veneta.
I am the president of a non-profit cultural association called VIVA (Voga per l’Identità Veneta) formed by five women vogatrici: three “Veneziana DOC,” or Venetian by birth, and two by choice). VIVA is dedicated to the celebration, salvation, conservation, and documentation of the voga and its culture, including returning the oar-powered traditional craft to their rightful place in Venetian canals. This amazing core group of women numbering over thirty and still expanding is determined not to let the motorcraft monopolize the canals and the lagoon.
Along with their supporters , VIVA is collaborating with other organizations like Arzanà, Pax in Acqua and voga boat clubs like Settemari, and is co-producing a documentary film, “Grit and Grace,” that will help spread the fascinating story of the voga, past and present, and the women’s efforts to maintain it as an integral part of Venetian life. If you’re looking for “hidden Venice,” this is where you’ll find it.
Can you contribute? I thought you’d never ask! Of course you can…and we need you. (10 minutes, €10).
Why is it important? It’s less about the money, and more about letting the City of Venice and our potential funders know how many people to whom this is an important cause.
To lend a hand…from wherever you are, surf to:
* VivaVogaVeneta.org and join VIVA – just €10 per year, then
* pass the word to other Venice lovers, rowers, and wooden boats builders – we need them too.
Then, when in Venice:
* keep an eye out for traditional craft and particularly us women rowers (feel free to express your appreciation vociferously. “Bea barca!”).
* for a larger contribution we will row you in our sandolo so you can have a truly authentic experience.
* and please…ask your taxi driver to SLOW DOWN!
________
Thanks so much Nan, for answering my questions!
And now for more fun, Nan has been nice enough to give away one of her fabulous books to one of my lucky readers! It’s my favorite in the series (I have previously reviewed it), Italy: Instructions for Use.
So, all you need to do is leave a comment on this post about Venice. It can be anything really. A helpful tip, your favorite memory, a different food you tried while there or even what you dream of doing in Venice if you haven’t been yet!
You have until December 5th at midnight EST to comment and then I will pick a winner, who will be announced on the blog the following day.
And if you want more Italy, don’t forget to enter to win a FREE subscription to the Dream of Italy newsletter! Time is running out!
In bocca al lupo!
All photos in this post are copywrite Nan McElroy and cannot be used without express permission.
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November 25th, 2009
Lovely photos.
I loved Venice last time I went ( twenty odd years ago). Stayed in a posh hotel with girlfriends and launched paper planes back and forth over the canal to a group of young male architecture students living below. Of course we couldn’t afford to stay more than a couple of nights so they found us a bed and breakfast, took us on a tour of Venice behind the scenes complete with architectural commentary and generally made us fall in love with them. And I was the only one who could understand Italian at the time! What a trip…
November 25th, 2009
Great interview! I know (of) Nan and knew she was extremely busy, but didn’t know all she was involved in!
Sara, Ms. Adventures in Italy´s last blog ..Pizza Bianca at Forno Campo de Fiori, Rome, Italy
November 25th, 2009
thanks 2 nan’s information
i saw this—>
the all-female crew rowing the Serenissima
in May.
i felt so fortunate!
everyone gets so excited
cheering them on
from the sidelines.
before my trip
her blog helped me select
where to B when.
i did not want 2 miss a thing
while in Venice!
thanks 2 U both
for helping out on that score…
{{ pick me,
pick me,
pick me for the free*book
as i am so appreciative }}
somepinkflowers´s last blog ..tourist tuesday, a rainy day in sitges and dear, wise bill bryson
November 25th, 2009
I’ve dreamt of Venice so much that it always stuns me to remember that I haven’t actually been there. Yet. It looks like the most romantic, mysterious place on earth.
November 25th, 2009
Bea barca!
November 25th, 2009
Love the site’s new look, Robin, and Nan McElroy’s great little book, Italy: Instructions for Use, is one I have long been recommending to my clients and readers. It was such a pleasure to read your interview with her and learn about Viva Voga (I’ll be joining, of course).
When Italians ask me what is my favorite place, I always answer (in italiano certo) that I love Florence with my head and my heart and Venice with my very soul. There is something about the play of light and water, shimmer and fog, color and gray tones…that speaks directly to my deepest self.
One thing I recommend to all who visit Venice is to attend a concert, to hear her music. It doesn’t matter really whether it’s an evening concert for tourists (I particularly like Interpreti Veneziano and the cellist Davide Amadio) or a performance in a church, or on the street. You cannot really experience Venice without music.
Thanks for this beautiful article, I’ll post links to it on my sites and Facebook page. Please exclude me from the contest, as I have several copies of Instructions on my shelf right now to give away to my tour clients. (sorry for this long comment!). Ciao! Paula
Paula Russell´s last blog ..Ossi di Morto Cookies
November 25th, 2009
Venice is one of the most incredible places I have ever visited.
I look forward to returning one day. Great interview.
November 25th, 2009
As an ex ex-pat (I lived for a year in France, and 15 years in Montreal, Canada), I find that, being back in “The States”. I long for that “face-to-face, art-inspired, food-based” European culture that Nan so beautifully describes. I’ve been traveling the country roads of the northeast U.S. and am finding pockets of it here and there. Thanks, Nan for that glimpse into “la dolce vida”! http://www.serenakovalosky.blogspot.com
November 25th, 2009
This isn’t a comment for the contest, as I already own a dog-eared copy of Nan’s fabulous Italy book, but to thank you for the interview – I, too, was unaware of all the stuff Nan was up to! Thanks for posting this, and especially all the background and information on the voga. I desperately want to try it myself someday.
November 25th, 2009
I’ve visited Venice for 2 days-and it can’t be enough time. I did have the required Bellini in San Marco Piazza. But what I remember most of all is wandering around, entering a tiny piazza and thinking I’d reached a dead end only to find a way out at the other ‘end’ and there I was on my way again-totally lost. I saw a lot of locals that way-and wouldn’t have it any other way. I will be back…..
November 25th, 2009
@Erica Grazie! (Nothing brings a smile to a vogatrice’s face faster than to hear this call as they pass, whether from the fondamenta, the overhead bridge, or another boat.)
Thanks to you all for reading, commenting, and for keeping the Instructions at hand. THAT is “soddifazione.”
Nan´s last blog ..Peek inside Palazzo Dario
November 25th, 2009
Great interview, and thanks Nan, for doing so much for Venice. I look forward to visiting Venice again – my previous 2 visits were much too short. Also, I gave away my copy of Nan’s book, so another one would be great!
Barbara: Art and Barb Live in Italy!´s last blog ..HAPPY BIRTHDAY BABOO!
November 25th, 2009
The only thing I don’t like about getting old is my fear that I will never get to visit Italy and her remarkable Venice. I’m now 66 and trying to figure out how to make my social security check stretch so I don’t have to dip into my little savings. To visit Italy is my reason for those savings! I hope to live my dream no later than 2011. My cousins and I want to visit our ancestral roots but Venice is one of the cities we plan to include – more important to us than Rome!
November 25th, 2009
Grazie Robin!
This only adds to my desire to go back again this year for the third time in 2009. Venice is awesome and I am not sure I could ever adequately describe the feeligns you get while there. Everyone must visit Venice at least once in their life.
Ciao
November 25th, 2009
What a lovely interview !
I was lucky enough to spend a week in Venice in January – as I’d chosen it as one of my “12 Cities” for a year long Polaroid project.
Compared to many cities I actually found it very easy to get my bearings and also an easy city to wander in. Where ever you are there are signs to the Rialto Bridge, St Mark’s Square or the station – so you can stroll quite aimlessly and know that you’ll be able to find your way back easily.
Very envious of Nan actually living there – it is high on my list to return for a longer period sometime.
November 25th, 2009
Ah, bella Venezia!
Too many years have passed since my brief visit. Such a wonderful, friendly city. I walked everywhere and never worried about getting lost. Would love to return with a copy of Nan’s book.
Kathryn Jankowski´s last blog ..Giving Thanks
November 26th, 2009
Thanks Nan, I was one of the lucky one who got to take a boat ride with you. Even though I come from Venice Countryside, I actually never got to go on a boat until I met you! One of the best experiences of my life and Ire-discovered Venice all over again! Hope to be able to spread the word about you Voga project and to see you during the next Regata!! Loved the interview!
BEA BARCA E BEE FIE!
Monica´s last blog ..A Venetian who has never been on a boat?
November 26th, 2009
My family and I spent 3 weeks in Venice in June 2002. (We weren’t going to let the events of Sept.11 curtail our traveling plans.) Just some of our Venetian favorites include:
1. Climbing to the top of the Bovolo in Campo Manin (the snail – a 5ish story circular staircase that takes you to roof top level) and listening to all the church bells ring in the noon hour.
2. Segreti tour of the Doges’ Palace and crawling through the attic with the temperature in the 40s C.
3. Discovering wine ‘fill-up’ shops – We recycled our 2 ltr water bottles by filling them up with young, inexpensive wines at the shops with a ship on an oak barrel (in 2002, the 2 liters cost 2 euro.)
4. Listening to the impromptu street music from the window of our apartment while making dinner.
5. Getting ‘Lost’ and then finding our way home.
We’ve been to many other areas and cities in Italy since 2002. Still, Venice is my favorite and I know that we will be back soon.
November 27th, 2009
Venice is heartbreakingly, breathtakingly beautiful. It was the very first city that we visited in Italy, and the moment we stepped (and almost fell overboard) from the Vaporetto onto bella Venezia, we were in love; truly, madly, deeply in love. Luscious food, Incredible Wine and the most passionate people on the face of the earth. Now that I’ve waxed eloquent, I’ll lighten it up a bit…we had our hearts set on walking to a particular restaurant about an hour away…in heels! (Mine, not hubbies!). The restaurant was to close at 9pm, so after walking with my feet about to fall off, we arrived at the restaurant at 8pm, only to be told that it was already closed. I pointed to the sign on the door with the hours, but to no avail. Papa wasn’t going to budge. Apparently closing times are just suggestions in Venizia. I whispered to hubby, “Okay…go with me here…” As a drama queen, I burst into tears. The owner couldn’t move fast enough to accommodate us! The moral of the story is this: never let hubby in on the fact that you can sob on demand. He’ll never believe you again.
Venice is a beautiful dowager, just as likely to slap you silly, or embrace you with open arms. Getting lost is to be expected, and when that happens, the magic happens. The moment that you step foot on the island, you may as well start planning your next journey to the lovely land of the canals and kisses.
November 27th, 2009
i have heard so many wonderful things about venice and how it is steeped in history and beauty i would love to visit there thanks minsthins at optonline dot net
November 27th, 2009
Bea Barca!!! The rowing is such good exercise! What a wonderful sport to be involved in.
I would love a chance to win Nan’s fabulous book on Italy! Thank you for the opportunity to win! How generous of Nan and you!
❦TattingChic´s last blog ..Happy All Saint’s Day!
November 28th, 2009
“If you read a lot, nothing is as great as you’ve imagined. VENICE is — VENICE is better.”
– Fran Lebowitz ( I agree)
November 29th, 2009
I had the pleasure of going to Venice for a day when I was in grade 11. And I had the good fortune of having an uncle living in Milano at the time who came out to show me the Venice outside of Piazza San Marco. I would have fallen in love with Venice anyway, to be honest, but to wander around the streets only locals wander, eat where the locals eat, scratch a local gatto’s belly… that was heavenly. I spent a month in Italia this summer, but never made it up to Venezia, but I will be back there, assuredly, because I left a piece of my soul behind and have to go and give it some love. Thanks for posting this
Andrea´s last blog ..A Letter, because I don’t often get to say it.
November 29th, 2009
Great interview with a wonderful person. Nan is the epitome of a real woman. Brava.
November 29th, 2009
Very much enjoyed this interview
I often lend out my Italy: Instructions for Use book (I own the original version). I agree with everyone else that it is a great little book, chock full of useful tips.
girasoli´s last blog ..a word cloud of my recent blog posts
December 2nd, 2009
I’d love to win!!!
Jen Laceda´s last blog ..My 3 Best Kept Travel Secrets
December 3rd, 2009
I need to get back to Venice, too, with my sweetie! He’s NEVER been! That is just wrong.
Cherrye at My Bella Vita´s last blog ..Travel Tip Tuesday: Four Tips for Reducing Holiday Travel Stress
December 3rd, 2009
You tell P that I find that totally unacceptable
You must take him, now!
December 8th, 2009
Hi Everyone,
I am in the States at the moment and as a result have been a bit out of pocket. I’m sorry I didn’t get back sooner, but I did want to chime in to say how much I enjoyed reading all these comments. (I’d never heard that Lebowitz quote before…I’ll be requoting her myself, I think!)
Many thanks to Robin, hearty congrats to Instructions giveaway-winner Marsi, and here’s wishing all of you the very best on future travels…no matter where they lead you.
Un saluto caloroso,
Nan
Nan´s last blog ..Peek inside Palazzo Dario
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