Voguéo : Paris’ Water Transport System
Photo: Clicsouris
There are so many ways to travel around Paris these days. Taxi, Métro, Bus, Bat-o-bus, and the more recent Vélib bike program are just a few great options. Not to mention one of my most recommended ways – good old fashioned shoe leather!
But, did you know that Paris has been testing its own water transport system, called Voguéo, for the past three years?
Well, it has and apparently it has been a success! So much so, that the city is planning to expand its water boat transport system in Paris and beyond. Though it won’t be exactly like Venice’s vaporetto, it is certain to be yet another great way to get around Paris and France.
After three years of testing, it was decided to move forward with the expansion of the Voguéo network, which if the current plans materialize, will connect the Seine and Marne rivers in Paris.
Currently, the Paris ferries (which run every 15-20 minutes depending on the day and rush-hour times), connect the Gare d’Austerlitz to the Bibliothèque François Mitterrand, the Port de Bercy and the eastern suburbs. Single tickets cost a mere €3 and children under 4 years of age ride free.
Slated for a 2013 debut, the new Voguéo network will include three lines that run daily and coordinate with the bus, Métro and RER networks in Paris and will cost 7€ for a one-way ticket. There is also talk of the Voguéo being included in the Navigo Paris pass, which is a transport pass for the city.
Though the Voguéo ferries will not likely operate in very inclimate weather, I think this is a great option for those who prefer to stay above ground and see the gorgeous scenery as opposed to heading underground to travel around Paris.
What do you think? Is this exciting news and would you use Voguéo?
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Photo Essay : Most Beautiful Train Stations in France
I love taking the train when traveling through Europe. It’s clean, fast and convenient. But I’m also drawn to the history and architectural beauty that some of these train stations provide. Today, I wanted to share a photo essay of some of the most beautiful train stations in France. It’s no surprise that many of them are in Paris, but there are a few other surprises.
Gare de Lyon
One of the six train stations in Paris, it is perhaps most famous for housing the classic Paris brasserie, Le Train Bleu and was featured in the film, Mr. Bean’s Holiday. Named after the city of Lyon, it was built for the World Exposition of 1900. Its classic architecture is reminiscent of its time as evidenced by the clock tower that resembles Big Ben.
Gare de Strasbourg
Built in 1883 and located in the Alsace region of France, this train station was erected by a Berlin architect, Johann Eduard Jacobsthal. An impressive glass canopy that covers the entire facade was recently added in 2000, marrying the older building with a new modern look.
Gare du Nord
It’s hard to decide if this Paris train station, which is the busiest in France, is prettier viewed from the inside or out. The facade is lovely, but when the sun shines through the roof’s glass panels and arched windows, and mixes with the warm glow of the globe lighting, the platform and rails seem to transform. Built in 1861, it houses many art sculptures and has made appearances in many French and American films
Gare de Limoges-Bénédicitins
The Limoges station, originally inaugurated in 1929, is unique in that it actually sits over the rails, rather than next to them. The facade is concrete and limestone and the dome, which covers the concourse is made of metal and covered in copper. Both the dome and the top of the twelve-level clock tower display that signature green verdigris color the French are known for.
Gare de l’Est
Opened in 1849, this large Paris train station is a perfect example of the Belle Époque era. Comprised of both an east and west wing, they are flanked with ornate statues on each end of the building, which represent two important cities on the rail line – Strasbourg and Varenne. This train station is also topped with a curved glass roof and large semi-circular windows, which are covered in intricate iron scrollwork designs.
Gare Saint-Lazare
This station is all about what’s happening on the outside – a combination of old and new. A modern glass dome Metro entrance and quirky clock sculpture stand out against the Beaux-Arts facade complete with a mansard roof. This station, the first built in Paris in 1847, was a featured staple of artists like Monet and Manet, perhaps because the original line traveled to the picturesque Normandy area.
Gare d’Orsay
Though the former Gare d’Orsay in Paris, built between 1898 and 1900, no longer functions as a train station, it still deserves an honorable mention! Since 1986 is has been home to the Musée d’Orsay which primarily houses French art and boasts an impressive collection of impressionist pieces. Can you believe that they wanted to tear this gorgeous building down?
Photo Credits: jlastras / Jere L / kevinfranklin / boklm / jchristopherrobinson / gabrilu / robin locker lacey
Four Wine Regions of France
Many a food and wine-lover has surely placed France on their list of must-see destinations and for good reason. France is home to over seven main wine regions, each with landscapes more beautiful than the next. With their verdant rolling hills and perfectly placed rows of ancient vines bursting with ripe fruit, its no wonder they produce some of the finest and tastiest wine in the world.
If you are lucky enough to find yourself planning a trip to France - whether you are a devoted wino strictly wanting to visit wine regions or just wandering through the countryside and need a little break from touring and sightseeing, consider adding these four wine regions to your France itinerary and let these vineyards full of wine, fill your glasses.
Champagne
Technically it may not make the official list as a true wine region, but this historic province located in the north-east of France, best known for the sparkling white wine that bears the same name, garners a spot on our list. The region has been known for producing quality wine since the early Middle Ages, specifically growing Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes. Covered in rolling green hills, it’s a charming spot to explore on a warm afternoon and makes a great day trip from Paris.
- Moët and Chandon
Claude Moët founded the House of Moët and Chandon back in 1743. Since its humble beginnings, the champagne produced here has become synonymous with grand celebrations of success, achievement and triumph. From restaurant proposals to the Academy Awards, the champagne of Moët and Chandon is the drink of choice for happy occasions.
So if you’re in the area, allow yourself to indulge by taking a guided tour of the vineyards and cellars. Reservations are recommended, can be arranged in over eight languages and only charge a minimal fee that includes a tasting. Located about a hundred miles from the bustle of Paris, it is the perfect escape if you’re looking for a luxe champagne experience.
- Pommery Champagne
Pommery Champagne has four separate visiting estates, spread over a variety of sites that offer a great diversity of soils. This gives their wines complex tastes and aromas. The founding estate, Domaine Pommery, was built to showcase both modernity and extravagance – creating a breath-taking image of fine architecture. It fuses art, passion and wonderful taste that are sure to fill your visit with wonderful memories.
Loire Valley
The Loire Valley is well-known for its wine, but that isn’t the only reason you won’t ever want to leave. Often called the Garden of France, this area is fully stocked with cultural history and beauty. From the architectural wonders once built for nobility to the valued works from the Renaissance – Loire Valley has the loveliest and most romantic aspects of France rolled into one. So while you aren’t sampling the best of the Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Noir grapes (which the region is known for) – explore a castle, get lost in art and enjoy the beautiful Loire Valley.
- La Noblaie
This estate was born out of familial love when Jacqueline and Pierre Manzagol bought and restored the area. The vineyard had been devastated by World War II, yet the two put their heart and souls into its revival. Today, their grandson continues to run the vineyard. About 42 acres of vines surround the estate, trailing off into gentle sloping hills. La Noblaie is picturesque and peaceful, ideal for those who’d appreciate a long stroll through the vines while sipping the delicately crafted wine.
Spread across 96 acres, here you’ll find some of the oldest vines in the Loire Valley. The wine is harvested with great care using a mix of both traditional and modern techniques to create a drink rich in flavor and quality. These Cabernet Franc-based wines can be sampled by visitors after touring the vineyard and the cellars.
Once you’ve finished your wine, you’re in perfect placement for a trip to the gardens of Villandry – widely regarded as the most beautiful and intricately created gardens on Earth. Also in the area is the historic castle where Joan of Arc convinced the King of France to give her an army to defeat the English in the Hundred Years War.
Rhône Valley
Hailed for its innovative style, the Rhône Valley has long been known as the home to France’s most delicious dishes. And what goes better with a wonderful meal than a light and locally brewed glass of wine? The soil is fed directly by the famous Rhône river, producing a wide variety of wines, including the popular Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Syrah and Viognier are two of the most popular grapes used in the area.
- Les Marcellins
This vineyard is the youngest in our lot – having only opened in 1999. Founder Christophe Pacalet tried his hand at biochemistry and cooking before deciding to devote his time to making wine. His goal is to produce quality wine without causing harm to the environment. The grapes are still harvested by hand, a classic tradition that most vineyards have not let slip away. This estate gives visitors a priceless glimpse into the beginning states of a vineyard and the opportunity to see how far the group has come. Currently producing five distinct wines, the vineyard hopes to release four more soon.
Languedoc – Roussillon
Located in the South of France, this area places you right near the Mediterranean – giving the wines produced in the region a distinctive taste, very different than those cultivated up north. Currently Languedoc is the largest wine-producing region in the world and produces more than one-third of the grapes used for wine in France.
It’s home to about 16 grape varieties including Carignan, Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvedre as well as vin de payes, ‘country wine’, which is a step below the AOC classification. For those of us not lucky enough to live in the beautiful region, taking a visit there is cause enough to indulge in a bit of wine, both mountain and coastal views and the wonderful Mediterranean climate.
- Chateau de Lascaux
This vineyard, like many others, originated with family. Jean Benoit Cavalier took over the land (about 50 acres) in 1984 and cultivated it into an impressive 210 acres of vines. The area is surrounded by woodland, creating an environment rich in biodiversity and providing protection for the growing vines. With four reds, two whites, one rosé and more in the process of being produced – the vineyard offers visitors a heavenly selection of their best products as well as a chance to experience some of France’s most beautiful and natural surroundings.
Thirsty yet? Tell us about your favorite French wines or any vineyards you’ve visited.
Santé!
Written by: Kelly Gallucci Photo credits : epiczero / acrib / Megan Mallen / jez.atkinson
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Five Walled Cities in France
In ancient times, the best way to protect your city was to fortify it. This meant building large walls, towers and other barriers that kept your people safe. Think the Great Wall of China on a much smaller scale.
As the years passed and the 21st Century rolled around, the need for such cities became less necessary. In their infinite wisdom, however, Europe continued to preserve these places through organizations such as UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization). This leaves us, the modern travelers and history seekers, a chance to time travel back into a place far different from our own.
Today, we will be focusing our interest in France. So before you finalize that itinerary or book that plane ticket, read up on these fascinating walled cities and maybe find some time to squeeze a little fortification into your trip.
Carcassonne
Consistently, the walled city of Carcassonne has been rated the best in France and perhaps all of Europe for its beautiful yet imposing presence. Originally built to keep invaders out, the hilltop city is encircled by an enormous double row of fortified walls and 56 imposing towers. Tourist often find themselves enthralled in the fairytale-esque atmosphere, half expecting to see a knight and fire-breathing dragon fighting around the corner.
While there is no princess to rescue from an evil foe, the town has its fair share of sordid history. One of the towers housed the Catholic Inquisition in the 13th Century and today is the Musée de la Torture, where visitors can take a look at some of the original torture equipment from that time.
Don’t let that scare you off though. This town evokes romantic notions of a simplistic past that will leave you wishing to set up camp and never leave. Today the town is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site and will continue to leave tourists and locals standing in its magnificent shadow for years to come.
Neuf-Brisach
The most stunning architectural feature of this town is seen only from above. Military engineer, Marquis de Vauban, designed a plan for this town that laid out fortifications in the shape of a large star – making this the most unique walled city on our list!
Three separate rows protect the city, which sits safely nestled in the star’s center. Visitors to the town can stop by the Vauban museum, journey through the forest La Hardt, sit on the banks of the Rhine River or simply enjoy the relaxed local atmosphere. In 2008, Neuf-Brisach became one of the twelve fortresses recognized as a World Heritage site.
Saint-Malo
A band of wild pirates used to control the island of Saint-Malo. Situated at the opening of the Rance, the ruffians taxed any sailors who passed their way. At one point these fierce warriors even declared the island to be an independent republic!
Today passage is far safer, mostly due to a large bridge installed to permanently attach Saint-Malo to the rest of the continent. As the most visited city in the Brittany region, it may be best to save this spot for a time other than summer to avoid the crowds and to truly enjoy all the city has to offer.
Take a ferry ride, stroll along the beach, see the Cathedral of St. Vincent or visit the Great Aquarium (one of the largest in France). Before you leave be sure to indulge in some seafood – Saint-Malo has one of the highest concentrations of seafood restaurants in Europe.
Avignon
In the 14th and 15th centuries the town of Avignon was the center of great controversy. Pope Clement V chose the city as his residence rather than the traditional Rome, creating a stir in the Catholic Church. Deep into the 15th century, many popes followed his lead and stayed at the Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes) – the most famous landmark in the town.
If you happen to be around in the summer, the Palace hosts a theater festival of music, dance and cinema. You can join a more formal crowd at the “Festival In” portion, held inside the Palace of the Popes. Or journey over to “Festival Off” to experience a more bohemian style of undiscovered plays and street performers.
Domme
Perhaps the smallest town on our list, Domme is a medieval fortified town on the Dordogne river, that holds barely a thousand residents. Particularly wonderful for sightseeing, the town sits on top of a hill and enchants every visitor who passes through. Other sights include the towers of the Porte des Tours that are open year round for visitors wishing to see the prisons that held the Knights Templar in 1307.
It is still possible to see the engraved crosses they carved while imprisoned. Another spot to check out is the stalactite and stalagmite grottes (caves) that protected residents during the Hundred Years War. Classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France, Domme is an excellent stop whether you’re only popping in to grab lunch or staying for a few relaxing nights.
What are you waiting for? Don’t take my word on these places – go check them out for yourself! Explore the walled cities we described here or any of the others that are scattered across the beautiful countryside. Don’t forget to report back, we love hearing about your travels.
Written by : Kelly Gallucci Photo Credits: lorentey /Luftfahrer / Eusebius / Abderitestatos/ Luc Viator
Six Tiny Towns on the French Riviera
You’ve seen the gorgeous pictures of the French Riviera, boasting its lofty cliffs that overlook the sparkling blue water and the many yachts and sailboats that visit the ports each year. To say the least, the French Riviera is breathtaking. It is one of the most well-known resort areas and coastal regions in the world.
The sailboats and yachts are proof of this as their sterns’ reveal the names of their home, which come from all over the world! The mild-climate and colorful landscape have made the French Riviera a popular vacation destination. Year-round, tourists visit the famous towns along the coastline—Nice, Monte Carlo, St. Tropez, Cannes—and indulge in the lush beaches, museums, and overall glamour of the area. However, there is more to the French Riviera. Charming small towns and villages in the hillside are just beckoning you to explore. Check out these six tiny towns of the French Riviera!
Beaulieu-sur-Mer
South of Monaco is the small town of Beaulieu-sur-Mer, which means “beautiful place on the sea” in French. This town is said to have one of the prettiest marinas on the Cote d’Azur. Take advantage of the numerous restaurants on this harbor, and dine al fresco while enjoying the lovely view of the boats lined up in the marina.
In Beaulieu-sur-Mer you can experience a little bit of Greece by visiting the Villa Kérylos, which is a reproduction (built in 1908) of a fifth century B.C. Athenian home. It is fully furnished and decorated, and is even available for events and weddings. Admission is 8 euro. If you want to spend a day relaxing on the beach, head to the beach at Baie des Fourmis. Although it is near the center of town, this beach is isolated enough for a serene afternoon by the sea. At the end of the day, dress your best, grab your passport, put on your poker face, and head to Casino Beaulieu-sur-Mer for a night on the town!
Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat
South of Beaulieu-sur-Mer, on the small peninsula, is the town of Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat. Here, you’re bound to bump into someone famous since Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat is a popular winter getaway for the rich and famous. Walking lovers rejoice! This is the perfect town to explore by foot with its 14 km coastal path hike. The path is divided into three parts: tour of Cap Ferrat, Pine Forest, and the Maurice Rouvier walk, which will actually lead you into Beaulieu!
If you have a soft spot for furry critters, visit the zoo, which is home to over 300 animals. Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat is the home of the beautiful palace, Grand Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, which is surrounded by a colorful garden. Even if you can’t afford to spend the night in the luxurious suites, you can still enjoy dinner at the newly reopened restaurant. And if you really want to see a glamorous building, visit the Villa Ile de France. This palace is furnished with the treasures of Béatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild including various works of art and furniture. When you finish with the interior of the mansion, go outside and wander through the seven different gardens, each with its own theme: Florentine, Spanish, and Japanese, the garden of muses, the garden of lapidary, and the rose garden.
With all of the walking and sightseeing, you’re bound to work up an appetite. Just walk along the port and choose a cozy restaurant of your choice for a delicious meal while overlooking the water. For the beach lovers, there are three different beaches to choose from in Cap Ferrat. At the base of the cliffs and just a five to ten minute walk from the port is Paloma beach. Because of the protection from the cliffs, this beach doesn’t get as much wind, but it also has less sun in the afternoon. Passable beach is northwest of the peninsula, near the Office of Tourisme and the zoo. If you enjoy being around other beach-goers, head to the popular Cro de Pei Pin beach, which is north of the port at the Anse Lilong bay.
Vence
Vence is known as the “City of Art.” Artists flock to this little town on the Riviera, using the previous geniuses—Dufy, Matisse, Chagall, Dubuffet—as inspiration for their artwork. Visit one of the many galleries, or simply wander around and admire the sculptures and buildings around the town. Take a stroll down Avenue Henri Matisse and explore the Chapelle Matisse (also known as the Chapelle du Rosaire des Dominicanes de Vence). If you’re lucky, you may even get a chance to visit an outdoor art exhibit.
This little town is not just about art; it has a great medieval history as well. There are five medieval ports that lead into Vence: Portail Levis, Porte du Peyra, Tour-Porte du Signadour, Porte du Faubourg ou Pontis, and Porte d’Orient. Stop by the Office de Tourisme and pick up a map for a self-guided walking tour. Throughout Vence, there are pale-grey numbered panels that describe the historical sites on the Visite de la Cité Historique. Don’t miss the Fountaine de la Foux, which supplies mineral water from La Foux river. Visitors have been known to take a jug-full of the pure water!
Eze
Built up by the Saracen pirates in the thirteenth century, Eze became one of the main “Villages Perche.” The Villages Perche got their name because of the way they appeared to be sitting on the cliffs or glued to the sides of the mountains. Because it was so hard to reach, Eze was abandoned until the 1920’s when the proper technology allowed for road systems and access to water. Now, visitors can walk through the streets, stopping in shops that carry artisan crafts. With the warm climate, Eze has beautiful vegetation of bananas, dates, and carob trees. There’s vegetation that is even more vibrant in the exotic botanic garden Jardin Exotique Panorama that you can visit for twelve euro. There are two perfumeries in Eze—Galimard and Fragonard—and with a map from the Office de Tourisme, you can save 10% off your purchase.
Peillon
Truly get away from the tourists and embark on a medieval adventure with a trip to Peillon. No cars are allowed in Peillon (probably because they wouldn’t be able to fit through the narrow streets); therefore, visitors must park at the plaza, which is at the entrance to the village. Peillon doesn’t have the typical souvenir shops, just a few hotels and restaurants outside the village. At the plaza outside Peillon is the only gift shop, La Maiouneta. Here you can find produce, ceramics, and other gifts for passing tourists. The stone houses seem as though they are built into the rock, lining the narrow streets. You’ll be busy all day touring the medieval buildings.
La Turbie
La Turbie is known as the “balcony” of the French Riviera, overlooking the Principality of Monaco. In La Turbie, you will find the pride of the town, the Trophée d’Auguste (also known as the Trophée des Alpes) built by Emperor Augustus in 13 B.C. It was a symbol of the unity and power of the Roman Empire. Now, you can visit this 35-meter tall statue and the adjacent museum and learn more about the history. Admission is 5 euro for adults and 3.50 euro for 18-25 year olds. Visit the 18th century Saint Michel’s Church, which is a baroque church that was built using the ruins from the Trophée des Alpes. It is decorated with art from the 15th century, and is open every day until 6 pm. Nature lovers can wander through the Grand Corniche Nature Park, taking in the view from the top, while shoppers can enjoy exploring the central part of the village along the Moyenne Corniche Highway.
What’s your favorite town on the French Riviera?
Written by : Laura Photo Credits: hillsieboy / jcoterhals / sara maternini / exfordyswife / bousinka / tyb
Five Famous Gardens in France
While in a picturesque foreign country, like France, it’s great to check out the bustling cities and the famous artwork, but don’t forget to enjoy the more natural side. Beauty doesn’t require complex architecture or a practiced paintbrush—it can be found by simply taking a stroll and appreciating the gifts that Mother Nature offers us (and appreciating the gardeners dedicated to maintaining those gifts). Whether you fancy award-winning roses, mazelike patterns of shrubbery, or water-lilies worthy of the attention of an artist, there is a garden for everyone to enjoy in France.
Monet’s Garden
One of the popular gardens to visit in France is Monet’s Garden in Giverny. This modest home and sprawling garden served as home to the famous artist Claude Monet from 1883 until his death in 1926. After almost 10 years of restoration efforts, Monet’s property was finally opened to the public in 1980.
The gardens, which you can wander through and admire, provided the inspiration for some of Monet’s most famous paintings. When visiting this gorgeous floral landmark, you can view the flower garden “Clos Normand,” located in front of the house, or you can cross the street and peruse Japanese inspired water gardens, featuring Monet’s famous water lilies and Japanese bridge.
Though extensive remodeling and replanting took place to return Monet’s house and gardens to their former glory, the garden was designed by Monet himself. Visiting the garden is a great way to experience, first hand, a historic piece of beauty that inspired priceless artwork.
The Gardens of Versailles
If you’re looking to see an impressively large example of a Classic French garden, look no further than the gardens at the palace of Versailles. The gardens of Versailles are perhaps one of the most visited public sites in France and it’s not hard to see why if you have the chance to take them in. Also known as the Château de Versailles, the palace served as a home for the French monarchy for centuries.
The most notable inhabitant, King Louis XIV (“The Sun King”), expanded the building and grounds to their current size and majesty in the 1600s. The gardens, which were designed by André Le Nôtre, boast sculptures, manicured lawns, and parterres of flowers. It is, however, the multitude of fabulous fountains that contribute largely to the popularity of this spectacular garden. Whether you have a chance to view the entirety of the grounds, or you simply stop to admire one of the more noticeable fountains, the Gardens of Versailles will certainly strike you as worthy of royalty.
Château de Villandry
Perhaps the gardens with the longest and most culturally diverse back-story are the gardens at the Château de Villandry in the Loire Valley. This large estate and its grounds were constructed by Jean Le Breton in 1536. Le Breton had been an ambassador to Italy, where he studied Italian Renaissance gardens, and as such the original gardens largely reflected an Italian influence.
However, during the 19th century, Villandry came into the hands of the Marquis de Castellane, who redesigned the gardens to look more like an English style park. Over time the gardens fell into disrepair and they probably would have been demolished, however the Château de Villandry was rescued by Joachim Carvallo in 1906.
Carvallo, who was born in Spain, abandoned his science career to devote his life to reviving the Château and its gardens. Villandry is now home to a very interesting array of unique gardens, including the Potager and The Garden of love. The Potager is a kitchen garden, which was inspired by those found during medieval times in monasteries. Many of the other gardens on the property, including The Garden of Love, are composed of boxwood shrubs, painstakingly clipped into fascinating geometric designs and filled in with vibrant clumps of flowers. Letting yourself get lost in this mazelike set of gorgeous gardens will certainly be worth the visit.
Jardin des Tuileries
Situated between the Louvre and Palace de la Concorde, the Jardin des Tuileries is one of the most central gardens in Paris. This garden, and its adjoining palace, was built for Catherine de Medici on what was originally a clay quarry used to make tiles (known in French as tuileries). Though originally an Italian style garden, it was redesigned in the French Formal style between 1660 and 1664 by André Le Nôtre.
While walking through the garden you may admire the two large basins, the variety of fountains, or the new modern-style sculptures (which were added during renovations in 1990). In addition to the outdoor artwork interspersed throughout the garden you may want to check out the two museums on the premises: The Galerie Nationale de Jeu de Paume, or the Musée de’l Orangerie, in which you’ll find Claude Monet’s large water lily paintings.
The museum buildings themselves are also of interest since they are the remains of the Palace of Tuileries. Whether you’re more interested in modern sculptures, or the historic ruins of a castle, you’ll certainly find that the Jardin des Tuileries has come a long way from clay and tiles. If you happen to be making a summer visit, this garden hosts an annual funfair.
Bagatelle Gardens
Located on the edge of Bois de Boulogne, the Château Bagatelle and the Bagatelle Gardens have also come a long way. The Château, which was a hunting lodge, was purchased from the Prince de Chimay by Louis XVI’s brother, the Comte d’Artois.
As he began his expansion of the Château and grounds, Marie Antoinette wagered against the Comte, saying that the renovations of the Château could not be completed within 3 months. With the help of the architect François Joseph Belanger, as well as a vast amount of money, the Comte had his Château and its gardens completed in 63 days!
After the revolution, the Bagatelle came into the hands of Richard Seymour Conway who restored the gardens and added a grand entrance, stables, and an orangerie. By 1905, the city of Paris acquired the Château Bagatelle and Claude Nicolas Forestier (Commissioner of Gardens in Paris) established the Bagatelle’s now famous rose garden. Initially a simple hunting lodge, the Château Bagatelle now boasts a rose garden with over 9000 roses (1000 varieties) and is the site for an annual rose competition every June.
Which French garden have you visited? Tell us about your favorite?
Written by: Kelly Whelan Photo Credits: Nina Volare / HarshLight / ell brown / robin locker / gabrilu
France for Foodies : Goat Cheese
When it comes to food, French cheese holds a dear place in my heart (as I’m sure it does in most of yours). There’s something about the texture, the flavors, and the way it seems to go with everything that makes cheese so wonderful.
While there are numerous types of French cheese, goat cheese has one of the highest rankings in my book. It gets its distinctive flavor from the goat’s natural hormones and diet. This cheese is also versatile because of its maturation process, meaning that it can be fresh and soft, semi-firm, or brittle and crumbly. You can even find this sweet and salty cheese flavored with herbs and spices, coated in ash or charcoal, or even marinated in olive oil. Goat cheese has a lower fat, cholesterol, and calorie content than cow’s milk cheese, but it also has more protein and calcium; it seems that goat cheese is the way to go!
France is known for its phenomenal food and wine, but it is also the heart of goat cheese, or fromages de chèvre, production. There are over one hundred varieties of fromages de chèvre in France alone. However, Loire Valley (the Garden of France) produces 70% of all goat cheeses in the country. It was in Loire Valley that goat’s milk cheese originated; the Saracens, who once inhabited the deserts of Syria, left behind their goats along with recipes for making cheese in the region of Poitiers during the 8th century.
Loire Valley exhibits fine wines and cheeses, including six goat cheeses—Saint-Maure de Touraine, Selles-sur-Cher, Valençay, Pouligny-Saint-Pierre, Chabichou du Poitou, and Crottin de Chavignol—that are AOC (Appellation d’Origene Controlee) certified. This certification guarantees that the products were made within a specific region of France, following certain production methods.
- Sainte-Maure de Touraine
Sainte-Maure de Touraine is in the form of a log, with a blue-grey rind. It is rolled in black wood ash, yet has a walnut aroma. Early on, this cheese is smooth and creamy, but as it ages, it becomes a drier and denser cheese.
- Selles-sur-Cher
This cheese (sold in a cylindrical shape) is also rolled in charcoal ash. The ash grows a blue-grey mould that gives the cheese a strong flavor. It is harder and heavier, with a moist texture. This cheese will just melt in your mouth!
- Valençay
Valençay goat cheese comes in the form of a small black pyramid with a flat top. Legend has it that Napoleon spitefully swiped the tip of this cheese off with his sword after returning with disappointment from his campaign in Egypt. The rind has a natural mould that is covered with salted powdered charcoal. It has a soft and nutty flavor. Valençay is usually eaten on crackers, as hors d’oeuvres, or even with baked potatoes. Sometimes it is eaten in thin slices as an aperitif or an after-dinner-treat.
- Pouligny-Saint-Pierre
This soft and moist goat cheese, is also known for its pyramid shape. When first produced, the rind is soft and ivory-colored. As the cheese ages, the rind wrinkles dry out and become reddish-orange. Pouligny-Saint-Pierre has a creamy and nutty flavor.
- Chabichou du Poitou
From the region of Poitou (cheeses usually take the name of the local village in which they’re produced), Chabichou is a sweet goat cheese. It has a smooth thin rind of white, yellow, and blue mould. The cheese is best when farm-made, but it is also produced co-operatively and industrially. When it matures, Chabichou is denser and smoother. It is usually a dessert cheese, and is mostly served in the summer.
- Crottin de Chavignol
The most famous goat cheese of the Loire Valley is Crottin de Chavignol. This cheese has a hard black surface with a sour, sweet, and slightly salty taste. What makes this cheese unique is that it can be eaten at different stages of the maturation process. When it is first made, Chavignol is wrapped in herb leaves and is creamy and nutty. As it ages, it becomes more brittle with a more distinct flavor. Chavignol is 100% whole goat’s milk. It is served warmed and grilled on a chevre salad, which makes a fabulous appetizer.
- Banon
Coming from northern Provence, Banon cheese is a unique sweet cheese. It is wrapped in chestnut leaves and tied with raffia, keeping it fresh. There is a small percentage of cow’s milk in Banon, but it maintains the salty and creamy flavor of goat cheese. Banon has a citrusy and woody flavor and is best after it has been ripened for a few weeks. It pairs well with fresh fruit and a sweet dessert wine.
- Brocciu
Brocciu is one of the national foods of Corsica and is the only AOC cheese made with whey. It is similar to Italy’s ricotta cheese. It is best two days after the product has been ripened for two weeks. This sweet cheese is used in soups, vegetable recipes, omelets, and pastries. In some instances, it is served for breakfast with jam.
- Chèvre
Chèvre is pure goat’s milk cheese that comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. You can find this cheese covered in ash, leaves, herbs, or pepper. When it is young, chèvre is mild and creamy, but it becomes drier, firmer, and more acidic as it ages. It pairs well with French bread and olives or figs. It is also used in salads, omelets, pizzas, and soufflés.
- Picodon de Chèvre
From the Ardèche mountains and region of Drôme, Picodon de Chèvre is an aromatic goat cheese. It is sweet in its youth, but becomes more potent with age. Picodon is typically preserved in olive oil.
Are you dreaming of tasting goat cheese on your France vacation? Click here to see how I can encorporate it in your foodie adventure or get in touch so I can set up a cheese tasting for you!
Written by: Laura Photos: A huge thank you to the French cheese goddess herself, Chez Loulou. All photos can be found in her Flickr stream.
Five Lakes in France
Even though it’s nice to get out and visit the famous sights and attractions when traveling somewhere new, sometimes we need to get away from the hustle-and-bustle and immerse ourselves in a peaceful atmosphere.
Part of France’s beauty lies in its numerous lakes that offer visitors (and citizens) a chance to take part in a variety of water-sports or simply relax by the crystal blue water. But the lakes of France provide much more entertainment and activities, which is why visiting one of these lakes is a must-do during your next visit to France.
Lake Geneva
Lake Geneva (or lac Léman in French) is the dolphin-shaped lake located between France and Switzerland. If you wish to explore the Swiss banks of Geneva, boat trips (usually about twenty Euro) are offered to Geneva and Lausanne. However, on the French banks, three towns will keep you occupied: Èvian-les-Bains, Yvoire, and Thonon-les-Bains.
Èvian-les-Bains is a spa resort town made famous by its quality mineral water. Here, you have the opportunity to taste this water straight from the spring! Yvoire is a medieval village that attracts visitors through its lovely Jardin des Cinq Sens–a beautiful herb, vegetable, and flower garden in the city.
In Thonon-les-Bains, explore the fifteenth century Château de Ripaille, home of Amédée VIII the Bishop of Geneva. Attached to this castle (and included in the cost of the guided tour) is a vineyard that carries the region’s best wines. After exploring the region, make a reservation at Le Scampi restaurant (on 1 avenue du Léman) for Lake Geneva’s fresh catch-of-the-day.
Serre-Ponçon Lake
Serre-Ponçon Lake is south of the French Alps and is the second largest man-made lake in Europe. The lake was formed by the Serre-Ponçon dam that was built on the Durance River. Definitely check out Muséoscope du Lac in the town of Roussett for a tutorial of how the dam was built and other historical facts. Roussett also offers horse-drawn carriage rides and street-arts festivals throughout the year.
Serre-Ponçon is loaded with activities in sea and on land including footpaths around the lake that display memorably striking views (don’t forget your camera!). If you’re on foot, take the walk to Demoiselles Coiffées (meaning “young ladies with nice hats” in French), which is a rock formation of columns with a large rock balanced on their tips to prevent erosion.
The village of Savines de Lac, located in the middle of the lake, is another town worth stopping at. Bring your sunglasses: this town is said to have pure sunshine 300 days out of the year!
Bourget Lake
Bourget Lake is the biggest natural lake (from glacier deposits) in France. It is surrounded by sailing and fishing ports: Aix-les-Bains and Bourget-du-Lac. Aix-les-Bains, another spa town, is the main town of the lake. From this town, you can climb Le Mont Revard for a spectacular view.
Also on shore, near the Grand Port, is the Aquarium du Lac du Bourget, which displays the native species of Bourget. There are beautiful tree-lined paths along the shore providing the perfect setting for a romantic stroll. The Romantic Nights Festival is held in Aix-les-Bains. (Check the Rhone-tourism website: http://www.rhonealpes-tourisme.com for dates and details) Listening to the classical music will definitely help you unwind at the end of the day.
Der-Chantecoq Lake
The largest man-made lake, Der-Chantecoq, is located in central France. This lake was created by leveling and flooding three villages. You can check out “Church Point” on the lake, which is a historical church that was moved piece by piece before the flooding of the villages. Birdwatchers and fishermen rave about this location for their leisurely hobbies, but it’s also a pleasant spot for scenic views of the lake.
Der-Chantecoq is the perfect destination for all types of water-sports and activities. Even if you don’t want to get wet, you can walk or cycle on the trails along the banks or relax on one of the six beaches on the lake. Der-Chantecoq also offers horse-back riding and has specific observations points for bird-lovers!
Lake Annecy
Lake Annecy is said to be Europe’s cleanest lake! If you visit, be sure to explore the village of Tallores, especially the restaurants that offer the regional specialties of Féra or Omble Chevalier. If you want to explore more of the region, book a ride with Cie des Bateaux du lac d’Annecy: a cruise that stops at different towns on the lake. It even includes a prepared lunch or dinner! Nature lovers can opt for a more ecological experience with Lake Annecy Ecotour.
This two-hour trip allows passengers to see the village ruins without getting wet! (The tour uses a bathoscope to display the ruins). The tour also takes passengers to nature reserves and inside caves! There never seems to be a dull moment around Lake Annecy with the numerous festivals and events that take place year-round ranging from street arts and film festivals to carnivals and concerts.
What’s your favorite pastime when visiting the beach or the lake?
Written by Laura Photo Credits : Small / dr3wie / 6ril / Rens Kokke / Rami
Five Design Hotels in Paris and the South of France
Artsy, funky, stylish and colorful are all ways to describe design hotels and each of these hotels in France has a very distinctive modern style. If clean lines, bold colors and simplicity are design elements that suit your taste, then staying at any of these design hotels would be the perfect fit for you.
Casa Honoré
The Casa Honoré is located on 123, rue Sainte, 13007 in Marseille. It is equipped with all of the modern amenities one would need, including air-conditioning and wi-fi connection. Each room is situated around an outdoor patio. The rooms themselves are mainly decorated in white with several bold contrasting colors. This makes for a clean yet bold statement and a truly modern feel. The design here is so unique and dramatic that when checking out, you are given the option to purchase linens and other pieces that you might find to your liking. Breakfast is offered each morning, but for the rest of your meals you’re on your own. This should not prove too difficult because of the hotel’s location in the center of the city. There are plenty of fine dining options within walking distance and this gives you a chance to explore and take in the sights offered by Marseille.
9Hotel
Equally distinct in its design, but found in the city of Paris, is 9Hotel, located on 14, rue Papillon in the Opéra quarter. The interior is very modern and plays heavily upon whites, blacks and woods. While the décor is modern, none of the comforts are forgone in favor of design. Each room has free internet access along with the standard amenities. The hotel is known for commitment to service and for having such a personable and helpful staff. It is a newer hotel, built in 2000, and if modern comforts are something you crave in a hotel, along with pleasant reliable service, this would certainly be the place for you.
Hi Hotel
© Hi Hotel
This hotel is a work of art in itself. Located in Nice, the Hi Hotel is more a work in design than a building. Each room has managed to meld the function of furniture into art. Its use of bright techno colors and sleek modern furniture create a décor that is both simplistic and modern. Staying here is almost like being inside a modern art museum. Along with its distinctive design, which was created by Matali Crasset, this hotel is eco-friendly. The hotel also houses the Happy Bar along with an eco-spa and the hotel’s own beachfront. All of your meals can be taken care of by the hotel and there is even a sushi bar, along with a variety of vegetarian options available. The hotel can be found on 3, avenue des Fleurs and is a standout in both modern design and thinking because it follows a philosophy of service based on free-thinking.
KUBE Hotel
© KUBE Hotel
The KUBE Hotel takes form and shape in a new direction. Hidden down a side street in the Montmartre section of Paris, this hotel is initially not easy to find, but is hard to miss with its distinctive glass entrance. It carries the cube theme throughout its whole design. Mixed with the cubes are quirky elements of design such as bean bags and decorative pieces of faux-fur. It is also the site of the city’s first ice bar, the Ice Kube. It is part of a chain of Murano hotels but certainly has its own distinct style that makes it stand out in the city of Paris. This fact, along with its hidden location, adds to its charm and quirkiness, marking it as truly a unique boutique hotel.
Five Hotel
Finally, there is the Five Hotel, which is decorated almost as if you were in a fantasy. It is located on 3, rue Flatters in the Latin Quartier of Paris. Whether you choose one of their decadent concept rooms or a standard room, staying in this hotel will truly be a unique and almost dreamlike experience. While the rooms themselves are not very big, the attention to detail and ability to create a certain vibe is truly amazing. Each room is given the scent of your choice to enhance your sleep and your relaxation. The walls are decorated with bright hues and photographs. The design also utilizes colored lights to give the effect of stars or add to the color and atmosphere of the rooms. The multilingual staff is happy to help you find restaurants or entertainment within the city. Its departure from traditional Parisian style rounds out this exploration of design hotels and identifies it as something special within the city.
Do you have a favorite design hotel in France? Share your secrets in the comments!
Written by: Molly Photo Credits : briancarlocknyc / numstead / bitboy
France Travel Series : The Nice Side of Cemeteries
Cemeteries usually aren’t at the top of any travel itinerary, particularly not one for the French Riviera. Beautiful beaches? Check. Decadent seafood dishes and gelato in every flavor? Check. Winding streets and bright colored buildings? Check. Ancient graves and tombs? Not so much.
No doubt there is an abundance of things to do in Nice, France and the surrounding seaside towns. Checking out les cimetières du Château de Nice, however, can give you a rare glimpse into centuries of life in Nice. The family tombs hold generations, dating back to the early 1800′s. If you’re seeking a quiet refuge from the hustle and bustle of Old Nice or a break from the crowded beaches, wander through the cemetery nestled on Castle Hill.
The history lesson is worth it in itself. Graveyards can tell stories that the living can’t—and encourage you to make up your own. Reading the tombstone of a family who lost several small children in the late 1800′s made me wonder about the leaps we’ve made in modern medicine. I also realized that many of the young men who died between 1914 and 1918 or the early 1940′s were most likely victims of the World Wars. While reading tombs can be somber, it can be moving—like the tomb that held three generations of clearly loved fathers and brothers, from 1900 to 2007.
The cemetery gives you a peek into many facets of French culture, particularly religion and family. The cemetery is separated into Catholic, Protestant and Jewish sections. It’s interesting to see the differences between the large, ostentatious Catholic tombs and the simple Protestant tombs: the ideologies of both faiths are also reflected in death rituals.
All Souls Day, known as La Touissant, is dedicated to praying for the souls of the deceased as well as cleaning and replacing flowers on graves—and is still widely practiced in France. Most of the graves are extremely well cared for, with an abundance of fresh flowers. It’s lovely to see that the departed haven’t been abandoned—and also speaks to the generations of Niçoise that remain in Nice.
Once you’ve had your fill of the cemetery, you’re in the perfect spot to look down on the brightly colored buildings of Old Nice and the imposing structure of the Modern Art Museum. Directly across from the cemetery is a gorgeous view of the city of Nice. Stroll through the shade to the other side of Castle Hill to check out a waterfall, beautiful gardens and mosaics, a children’s playground and an amazing panoramic view of the Mediterranean. Bring a picnic and take advantage of the sprawling grassy areas and scattered benches.
To reach the cemetery, climb up the Montée Menica Rondelly from Place Ste. Claire in Vieux Ville or wander over from the Montée du Château. The cemetery is clearly marked next to the colline du Château on a city map of Nice.
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If you’re looking for a cemetery tour guide, Christine is currently living in Nice, France and blogging about life on the French Riviera at C’est Christine and tweeting @camorose. Christine’s first trip to France was at age 11, where she fell in love with pains aux chocolat, modern art and Galeries Lafayette.
