When I started this blog almost 3 years ago, it was because after return visits from both France and Italy, I realized that one of the things I loved so much was the culture and lifestyles of these countries. And I wanted to share that with others.
It’s no secret I’d rather be in one of those countries, but when I am not, I try to find ways that I can feel more connected to that lifestyle. Like I am living that life, even from so far away.
Here are a few hints and tips for infusing a bit of the French culture into your everyday lifestyle.
1. Make friends with cheese and bread. France has over 250 cheeses and boasts the best bread on the planet. These two food items are a large part of the French citizen’s day. Seek out a local bakery and gourmet cheese shop and indulge in some bread and cheese whenever possible. Many supermarkets have come along way, so if you don’t have specialty shops in your area, try your supermarket. If all else fails, online shops like Murray’s (for cheese) and even Poilane in Paris will deliver right to your door. Experiment and work your way through as many styles of cheese as you can to find your fav.
2. Listen to some French music. I love French music. And there is such a wide variety, you are sure to find something that appeals to you. Styles like accordion music and chansons, or favorite artists like Jacques Brel, Edith Piaf and Charles Trenet are great vintage options. If you like more modern-day music try Daniel Balavoine, Carla Bruni, Jeanne Cherhal or Camille. Compilation CD’s are a great way to experience all little bit of everything. Visit iTunes and create a French play list that can be enjoyed anywhere.
3. Read. Read anything about France you can get your hands on. Memoirs, travel guides, cookbooks, French decorating books, history books, magazines – even blogs. You’ll learn a lot about the culture from all angles.
4. Make meals an event. You know how as Americans sometimes we skip meals, grab fast-food, eat in the car and swill our food down in about five minutes flat? Not only is that bad for your health, but it’s really no fun! In France, eating is a social event and something the French take pride in. Learn how to set a proper table. Use the good china and silverware, light some candles, adorn the table with fresh flowers. Make the table inviting. Whether you are eating for two, with your children or having a full-blown dinner party- make your meal a 2-3 hour enjoyable event, without distraction and with intelligent conversation – not a rushed Kentucky Fried Chicken evening in front of the tube.
5. Learn some of the language. Nothing says I’m gettin’ my French-on like speaking or understanding the language. Not only will this go along way if you plan to travel to France, but you’ll find yourself excitedly dropping bonjours, mercis and a beintôts any chance you get with a smile on your face..and French in your heart. You might even find a French pen-pal or email buddy, where you can practice what you have learned.
6. Watch some French themed movies. Take those language skills to the next level by watching French films with the English subtitles on. Or pop in an American movie set in France and you’ll be able to tour the country and swoon over scenes in Paris, Provence, the French Riviera and more! Paris fans should try Amelie or Paris Je’Taime. A Good Year is a great option for Provence lovers.
There are certainly a hundred more ways to infuse the French culture into your lifestyle! Share some of your favorite ways.
For those of you who don’t know Nan McElroy, she is an American expat living in Venice, Italy (jealous, maybe a little!). Matter of fact, her website is called Living Venice. How appropriate!
I have had the pleasure of getting to know Nan. I consider her a friend and a colleague. Most notably, Nan has published a wonderful series of travel books-which I highly recommend to you and to clients.
Nan agreed to do an interview to kick-off my new website and give away a free copy of one of her books to a lucky reader! But, you’ll have to stick around ’till the end of the interview to find out which one!
Here is our chat. Enjoy!
MM: Nan, why Italy? How did you end up living there?
Nan: It’s odd…I’m not one of those people who always wanted to live in Italy, or who, upon my first visit (in 1995) swooned and went home to pack thinking I’d return to live some storybook version of La Dolce Vita. I had no delusions about the difference between being on vacation here and trying to be productive. I do remember thinking, “I can’t believe this country has been here my whole life and nobody told me.”
Being from the Southeast, I’d had little exposure to Italian culture of any sort, and the difference between Pizza Hut and Olive Garden and the country itself was stupificante, to say the least. I continued to return yearly for a month or more at a time, in ’96 to learn the language, then to travel, research and write “Italy: Instructions for Use.” In the end, the supreme effort it took to leave a stable life as a video editor behind and relocate at cinquant’anni, was motivated purely by what I wanted my daily life to consist of: less time in the car, and more in a less-manic, more-forgiving, arts-investing, food-based culture that’s as agile as it is gracious. Perfect? Macché(certainly not!). But then less face it: neither am I.
MM: And how did you land in Venice?
Nan: It’s Europe’s (and Venice’s) intimacy that suits me. The scale of the city. The water. The absence of cars, and the built-in walking. Being in constant contact with the outdoors. The food. The wine. The prevalence and appreciation of art and artisanship. All facets of daily reality, face-to-face, undeniable. The fact that every relationship is personal, no matter how short-lived, from the bank teller to the restaurant owner to a member of the remiera (boat club) or my singing companion, the barista, the president of the association or the lady from the post office to the ex, all of whom, prima o poi (sooner or later), I’m likely to run into on the street or the vaporetto.
Maybe it’s a quick “ciao,” maybe you’ll stop for a chat (Tutto bene?), maybe it’s a promise to get in touch, but it’s incredibly sustaining…just like the fresh vegetables that arrive by boat from Sant’Erasmo weekly…it creates a tangible “we’re all in this together” atmosphere. And of course, the voga. But we’ll get to that.
MM: What do you love about Venice?
Nan: Going somewhere else and coming back home. I waited ten years for this sensation to wear itself out…and now after fourteen, it still hasn’t. There are times I do feel I live in a sort of Lilliput…in that the rest of the world can have a tendency to recede…but I try to keep things in perspective. Also, no matter where you are in the city, in any sestiere, whether out walking, on a boat, or at home with a window open…you can hear the grand marangona in the San Marco campanile, toll the stroke of midnight. I never tire of hearing it.
MM: Can you share a Venice secret with us, perhaps something not in a guidebook?
Nan: The secret is there aren’t any. If you sit at La Cantina, half of the folks there will have a guidebook talking about that unknown cafe with no menu, marvelous food, great wines and friendly service (I call it Venice’s version of “Cheers”). If you are a local living in almost any remote campo, a writer (with her photographer) will stop you almost daily telling you she is writing a book on “Secret Venice” and then asking to confirm some detail of the oddity that occurred there.
If there are secrets about Venice they have to do with how, rather than what or where. I wish visitors would spend less time worrying about booking the perfect hotel (there are lots) or determining the ideal location (anywhere but San Marco), and more time reading just a smidgen about Venice and her story…it will bring you a whole other awareness of everything you take in when you are here. Keeping in mind that Venice was not originally created as a resort can make a big difference in how you enjoy the city, no matter how little time you have.
That…and spend more time here. It is a cumbersome city and simply takes more effort than others to become orientated to. When you don’t allow that time, you cheat yourself, I think…and frankly, risk wasting money solely due to lack of knowledge of how the city functions.
I will tell you one secret, I think: Orsoni Mosaics. It’s the Other Venetian Glass. Signing up for a class there (three days or a week) is a wonderful way to really connect, literally, with the city’s artisan history…and slow you down enough to really live it. The other “secret” is the voga…but I’ll get to that in a minute.
MM: Do you ever get homesick for the US?
Nan: I miss friends, family, and colleagues, of course…and I am always amazed at how inexpensive things are in the U.S. compared to Europe. I am not homesick for living behind the wheel of a car, though…I love having trains and mass transit, and someone else to do the driving while I read, or work, or nod off…
MM: You and I are alike in that we wear many hats. Can you tell us what you are involved in?
Nan: I do organize travelers time here in Venice; however, I work more often as the “Venice connection” for Italian Travel Consultants as opposed to working directly. One of my most popular services is “Venice: A Welcome Introduction,” a unique, on-arrival orientation that’s marvelous for helping folks get their bearings. I sit people down in a calm location with maps (Venice and vaporetto) and other materials, marking them for booked activities, my suggestions, dining recommendations, and otherwise noting all their options according to interests and the time they have. People seem to find it extremely helpful.
Otherwise, my catch-phrase is “vini, voce, e voga.” For pure pleasure, I study la lyrica (lyric opera) with Sara Bardino (thus the voce, voice), and team up with mezzo-soprano Valentina Borsato and a few other for the occasional concert. (When it goes well, it yields what we refer to as soddisfazione, such satisfaction…)
As for the “vini,” I *should* be an AIS sommelier by February (the exam is not easy and the course is in Italian, so…pray for me). But with all this wonderful wine at a stone’s throw it seemed a shame not to immerse myself in it…so to speak. I’m particularly enjoying getting to know wines made from native varietals by small producers who don’t export, made with as little “correction” as possible; I’m hoping to help clarify the maze for the everyday wine enthusiast through writing, offering visits to local wineries, and on-site introductions to regional wines here in Venice. (I bet €50 you do too like white wine!).
MM: You have a deal, Nan! And speaking of wine, what kind of wine do you prefer?
Nan: I like good wine. That’s all. Good. Balanced, complex. Good. Red, white, French, Italian, any country, sfuso (on tap), invecchiato (aged) , I don’t care. A Corolla for lunch or a Lamborghini for an occasion. Good wine.
I will say that generally, I prefer lower alcohol wines. Complexity seems to shine through more easily, I think. And…you can also enjoy more wine with less risk of negative effects. So…good French wines, when I can get my hands on them, make me absolutely swoon. As a friend puts it, they are the undisputed masters at the techniques to pull every last nuance out of a grape…they have to, being so far north. And unlike high-alcohol “jammier” wines from super-mature fruit, they can have an overall elegance that’s hard to beat. I don’t think you have to be an expert to sense it either (i.e., if I can…).
However, Italian wines are simply smashing for their extraordinary variety, excellence of production, and sheer enjoyability – if that’s a word. Many of the wines produced in the Tre Venezie are in fact low in alcohol, and I’ve really come to appreciate them…they’re just compatible with the way I consume food and alcohol…so it works out great!
MM: Tell us about your Instructions For Use series and which countries we can look forward to seeing next?
Nan: Illustrata Press publishes the Instructions for Use Travel Series (Italy: France: , and Greece: Instructions for Use, and now the new Vap Map Vaporetto Guide). I would love to follow up with Spain, but the truth is that both the travel and publishing industries are undergoing enormous changes almost daily. I’d like to get my bearings a bit before launching into another country. I’m very proud of these pubs though…they serve exactly the purpose I was hoping for: to keep all practical info at folks’ fingertips (because they’ll never remember it all, or have time to locate where they read something on a website when they’re on-site).
MM: What is Voga?
Nan: My all-consuming passion is vogare: to row, Venetian style. If there is a “secret” that lives – or perhaps is disappearing – right under the nose of every single traveler, this is it. “Vogare” in Italian means “to row”: the voga alla veneta is the style unique to Venice and her lagoon, performed standing up, facing forward. “We row with our heads,” one guy tells me. “The rest of the world rows on its ass.” It’s the method the gondoliers employ (look closer, they do not pole); and it has propelled Venetian craft throughout its long history fin dall’inizio: when Dandolo sacked Constantinople, when Bellini and Titian and Tintoretto were painting, when Casanova escaped from the Piombi, and even when Napoleon arrived, up until after WWII, Venetians vogavano, they rowed.For us foresti, we never feel so Venetian as when we row the voga alla veneta.
I am the president of a non-profit cultural association called VIVA (Voga per l’Identità Veneta) formed by five women vogatrici: three “Veneziana DOC,” or Venetian by birth, and two by choice). VIVA is dedicated to the celebration, salvation, conservation, and documentation of the voga and its culture, including returning the oar-powered traditional craft to their rightful place in Venetian canals. This amazing core group of women numbering over thirty and still expanding is determined not to let the motorcraft monopolize the canals and the lagoon.
Along with their supporters , VIVA is collaborating with other organizations like Arzanà, Pax in Acqua and voga boat clubs like Settemari, and is co-producing a documentary film, “Grit and Grace,” that will help spread the fascinating story of the voga, past and present, and the women’s efforts to maintain it as an integral part of Venetian life. If you’re looking for “hidden Venice,” this is where you’ll find it.
Can you contribute? I thought you’d never ask! Of course you can…and we need you. (10 minutes, €10).
Why is it important? It’s less about the money, and more about letting the City of Venice and our potential funders know how many people to whom this is an important cause.
To lend a hand…from wherever you are, surf to:
* VivaVogaVeneta.org and join VIVA – just €10 per year, then
* pass the word to other Venice lovers, rowers, and wooden boats builders – we need them too.
Then, when in Venice:
* keep an eye out for traditional craft and particularly us women rowers (feel free to express your appreciation vociferously. “Bea barca!”).
* for a larger contribution we will row you in our sandolo so you can have a truly authentic experience.
* and please…ask your taxi driver to SLOW DOWN!
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Thanks so much Nan, for answering my questions!
And now for more fun, Nan has been nice enough to give away one of her fabulous books to one of my lucky readers! It’s my favorite in the series (I have previously reviewed it), Italy: Instructions for Use.
So, all you need to do is leave a comment on this post about Venice. It can be anything really. A helpful tip, your favorite memory, a different food you tried while there or even what you dream of doing in Venice if you haven’t been yet!
You have until December 5th at midnight EST to comment and then I will pick a winner, who will be announced on the blog the following day.
And if you want more Italy, don’t forget to enter to win a FREE subscription to the Dream of Italy newsletter! Time is running out!
In bocca al lupo!
All photos in this post are copywrite Nan McElroy and cannot be used without express permission.
This Travel Tip Tuesday, Cherrye and I are both doing interviews with people in the Travel Industry. You’ll have to wait until the end to find out who Cherrye is interviewing. It’s sort of a surprise!
But until then, let’s get to my interview, shall we?
Over the summer, a brand new travel magazine was launched and I was lucky enough to receive a free premier copy of the first issue.
Needless to say- I loved it!
Honestly, I used to subscribe to all of the biggies out there. Over the years, I never really connected with them, with the exception of Budget Travel.
But, I really found something different about Afar. I wanted to know more.
Susan West, the Editor-in-Chief for Afar magazine, was nice enough to pop over and answer a few questions about the new magazine!
Here is our interview:
MM: It’s pretty gutsy launching a new travel mag in this economy, when so many other magazines are closing up shop. What made you decide that now was the right time for a new Travel Mag?
Afar: Our founder, Greg Sullivan, is a serial entrepreneur, who believes a down time is actually a good time to start any business. The idea is that we’ll work out the kinks during the slow period and be in a strong position when things turn around. It’s much riskier to start an enterprise when everything is booming and there’s lots of competition.
As for why a magazine now, the whole team believes strongly in the power of magazines to inspire, create community, and build a brand. Especially in the travel category, there’s nothing like a magazine—the immediacy of fresh, inviting photography and riveting writing—to convey the pull of the road and the experience of exploring the planet. And there’s nothing like a magazine to establish a media brand and seed a community; Afar magazine is just the start of a bigger media enterprise that will soon include a social network Web site, books, events, and TV programming.
MM: We are all familiar with Budget Travel, Travel & Leisure, Conde Nast Traveler- how is your magazine different and who are you hoping to reach?
Afar: We’re for people who seek experiences when they travel, who are not just “consumers” of travel like they’re consumers of fashion or food. “Experiential travel” takes you into a culture and connects you with the essence of a place and its people. Every travel magazine covers this approach to some degree—it’s a growing trend right now, and we’re certainly not claiming that we invented this type of travel—but none of the competition do it exclusively. We do.
That means we have the freedom to organize the magazine around that philosophy: For example, our departments are divided into sections called See, Connect, and Go. The See section is about seeing the world as a whole and appreciating how our culture is just one of many. The Connect section introduces readers to individuals and ideas that illustrate experiential travel. And the Go section is all the practical, how-to material.
After that come our features, which re-create on the page the experience of this type of travel. Every single one of these stories is presented from the point of view of traveling to understand another culture. So, even our so-called service information—all the must-have material about places to stay and eat—is grounded in that approach: How does this regional dish reflect the culture? How does this hotel or lodge put you in touch with the community?
The readers we’re hoping to reach—and our early feedback indicates we’re succeeding—travel because they are curious and open-minded about how the world operates and how others live. They are cultural explorers, who often follow a particular passion when they travel, who ask questions and engage with other people, who are open to the unexpected, spontaneous delights that travel offers.
I always picture two types of readers: Boomers like me who did the backpack-through-Asia thing and who now travel in a more upscale way but haven’t lost their taste for authentic experiences, and the generation behind them who grew up doing overseas community service projects in the summers and who feel comfortable anywhere in the world.
MM: I love that your mag has an eco-friendly vibe. Your Travel with a Purpose feature is a great example of how travel can have a positive impact on the environment. Can you tell us about all the things you are doing to promote the environment, both as it relates to the writing and the production of the magazine. Why is it so important to you and why should it be important to your readers?
Afar: It just makes sense that those who travel in this deeper way have these leanings. While we don’t take an advocacy stance, we do believe in responsibility. Our Good Trips department, which you mentioned, is one place where we’ll regularly offer trip ideas that align with these values. For every issue, we make a contribution to Sustainable Travel International’s Gold Standard portfolio to offset the carbon emissions generated by flights taken for the magazine, and we print on paper from sustainably managed forests. We also make a point not to use green-washing buzz words; instead we describe specifically how a particular project or accommodation choice or whatever is responsible.
MM: I notice there is no mention of the U.S. in the Premier Issue and while I love that, I am wondering what the decision was behind that? Might we see some features involving the U.S. in the future or has that market been over-saturated?
Afar: We made a deliberate decision to cover only destinations outside the U.S.. We felt that other publications were doing a good job of writing about travel in the US, and that the notion of travel to understand other cultures pointed more toward overseas destinations. But we do joke about starting a U.S. version called “Nearby”!
MM: I love the Spin the Globe concept. What are some of the upcoming areas that you’ll be reporting on in your Spin the Globe feature?
Afar: Ah, that’s part of the surprise! We really do keep those destinations under wraps so the writers don’t know until the last minute where they’re going. That department is our way of suggesting to readers that they can have amazing travel experiences without the slightest advance planning.
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Thanks so much for stopping by and answering my questions Susan! I look forward to reading future editions of Afar and seeing what the upcoming destinations are for that Spin the Globe feature!
I hope you have the chance to read Afar. I wonder where it will take you?
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And as promised, I wanted to reveal the surprise guest Cherrye over at My Bella Vita is interviewing. It’s none other than l’il ol’ me! Click here to learn a little more about me and My Melange.
I am so excited to have Kathy McCabe, the founder of the award-winning newsletter, Dream of Italy, stopping by today! Kathy and I have partnered together before – in fact, you can see my contribution in her new FREE Christmas in Italy Guide! Perfect for the Holidays.
Kathy and I have one very important thing in common. Our love for Italy.
Kathy was kind enough to agree to a little interview. And to help me kick-off my new website- Kathy is offering one lucky reader the chance to win a entire year’s subscription to the Dream of Italy publication!
So, let’s chat with Kathy!
MM: Kathy, how did you fall in love with Italy?
DOI: I fell in love with Italy right after college when my mom took me on a graduation trip to Italy. Our itinerary included the major destinations – Venice, Florence, Rome, Amalfi but we decided to add a decidedly untouristy destination to our plan – the small town Castelvetere sul Calore – in the mountains of Campania, near Avellino.
This is the town my mother’s grandfather left for the United States at the end of the 19th century. No one from our immediate family had been back and we – two blonde Americans who didn’t speak any Italian showed up there one day. It was one of the most incredible days of my life – about 20% of the town had my mother’s maiden name, we learned that anyone with that name only came from this town and that our family were originally Norman invaders. I ended up falling in love with Italy and going back any chance I could and returned to my ancestral home town several times again as well.
MM: What part of Italy is your favorite and why?
DOI: Picking my favorite part of Italy is like picking a favorite child. But I’ll play along. My favorite city in Italy is Rome; I am just mesmerized by the mix of antiquity and modernity. I also think Turin is a special and undiscovered city offering incredible museums and cuisine. In general, I’m partial to all of southern Italy. I’m completely enamoured with Puglia – gorgeous beaches, beautiful vineyards, the biggest olive trees I have ever seen. I also love Basilicata – especially the seaside paradise of Maratea.
MM: What is your favorite Italian recipe- you know the kind you’d eat every day and never tire of?
DOI: Depending on the season, when I’m heading over to Italy there are a number of dishes I can’t wait to eat. Stuffed zucchini flowers is one of my favorites. I love visiting Tuscany, Umbria or Piedmont during truffle season and enjoying truffles in a variety of dishes especially on pasta. Who isn’t a gelato fan? My favorite flavor is straccitella.
MM: Can you share your most memorable moment in Italy?
DOI: I have so many memorable moments from my travels throughout Italy. The ones closest to my heart are definitely from that first day I stepped foot in Castelevetere sul Calore. I have a wonderful memory of visiting Rome for Christmas and standing with my parents in St. Peter’s Square at midnight on Christmas Eve to observe midnight mass. The hottest I have ever been and coldest I have ever been in my life have been in Italy! Hottest – Venice – August 2003 when an unbelievable heatwave was hitting Europe. Coldest – February 2006 – watching the snowboard cross at the 2006 Winter Olympics.
MM: Dream of Italy has a subscription special running right now. Can you tell us about that?
DOI: Sure. Right now, we do have a terrific susbcription package which you can read more about at the Dream of Italy website.
A subscription includes-
+ 10 issues over the coming year
+ online access to 70 back issues
+ BONUS DVD – Visions of Italy: The Great Cities
And I’ll give one of your readers the online subscription – $39 value.
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Thanks so much for chatting with me Kathy! It was great getting to know you better!
And since Kathy has been nice enough to give-away an online subscription and bonus DVD, I thought we would have a little fun with it!
All you need to do, is leave a comment on this post between now and midnight EST on December 1st, telling us why you Dream of Italy! I will randomly pick a winner on December 2nd, and announce the winner on the blog.
In bocca al lupo, all of you Italophiles!
I am a self-confessed wino. I know a thing or two about wine and have mostly been sticking to budget French and Italian wines, with a penchant for reds.
But I dabble. I am not one who is an expert for food and wine paring. Well, I might know a few basics, but generally I stick to a pretty basic formula – If I can afford it and I like it – I drink it. Repeat.
However, today I have enlisted the help of someone who does know all about wine.
He makes it his business to know.
One of my very favorite Italian wine guys, Joel Mack from Vintrospective (don’t you just love the name!), stopped by today to chat about Italian wine and how it relates to Thanksgiving.
Don’t forget to take good notes!
Here’s Joel:
In preparation for making your holiday wine selections, I suggest the following spiritual prelude: let’s imagine you as wine.
As wine, you’ve got options, of course. Pedigree. Great structure. Complexity of aroma. But to be a wine appreciated, it’s not necessary to imagine all that. Better you should know how to roll up your sleeves and do good work at table. The table is the great equalizer among wines: be great there, or be a lie, an imitation.
Maybe you’re turned out in an elegant, black 750ml bottle; or perhaps headlining in a more formal 1.5 litre magnum, center stage, the only wine on the table. And they’ll be clutching their stomachs with hunger, waiting to eat and drink. The pressure is on. Hopefully, you won’t be counting on just your pedigree to carry you through.
Want to know what you’re up against? Take my family, Italian-Americans – at Thanksgiving, they’ll hit you with everything they’ve got – it’ll be escarole soup, meatballs, pork, and two kinds of handmade pasta all before the turkey and trimmings ever hit the table. You can’t take just one position, you’ve got to work it all.
Express yourself. You’re a star. But play it like a supporting role: make the food taste good. You’ll hear the “oohs” and “ahhhs”. “Bravo”, they’ll say. They’ll lift you up, want to hold you, feel the bottle, get a better look at your label.
You’ll be back next year
OK: End of spiritual prelude.
No pretending about Italy’s great food wines: a few recommendations that make great sense for most Thanksgiving tables, wines whose incredibly food-friendly attitudes at table make them super choices for the entire meal:
Chianti Classico
This classic from Tuscany, based on the Sangiovese varietal, pairs well with intensely flavored dishes, entrees with cheese and is particularly good with grilled or roasted meats, poultry, and game.
Recommended Producers Include: Castellare, Felsina, Fontodi
Valpolicella
Based primarily on the grape called Corvina, this wine from Italy’s Veneto region shows a real ability to work equally well with milder pasta dishes as well as roasted poultry.
Recommended Producers Include: Brigaldara, Le Salette, Zenato
Dolcetto
One of Piedmont’s important wines, Dolcetto is made from the grape of the same name and does especially well with pasta dishes containing meat and is excellent with rich poultry dishes.
Recommended Producers Include: Abbona, Icardi, San Fereolo
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ABOUT JOEL MACK
Joel Mack writes about Italian wine at Vintrospective -> An Italian Wine Blog, a site that encourages an understanding of Italian wine as a part of culture, exploring wine’s connection to the people, land and traditions which create it. As a free lance writer, he also contributes content to other Internet and print interests. Joel conducts specialized seminar tastings featuring the wines of Italy for private and corporate clients and teaches a college level Discover Italy series of wine classes. He has a worked for a celebrated importer / distributor of Italian wines and continues to study the wines of Italy.
By now, you know that I love reading books and memoirs that involve my twin passions, France and Italy. I have mentioned several other Italian books that I have read and loved, and even have a few recommendations in my Amazon store.
The latest, that I will add to both of those lists, is the very enjoyable Never Trust a Thin Cook, by Eric Dregni.
With wit and humor, Eric tells how he and his girlfriend Katy, both from the U.S., spend three years in Modena, Italy.
Modena, famous for its balsamic vinegar, its cars (like Ferrari, Maserati and De Tomaso) and the opera great Pavarotti, is located in the Central Northern part of the country, near Bologna.
This book had me busting out in laughter, in bed, at all hours of the night!
Which tends not to fare very well for the pseudo-hubs, who is both a light-sleeper and an early-riser.But I digress.
Dregni describes situations that many an Italian ex-pat has spoken of- including rivalries with the nearest city of Bologna, the locals’ obsession with calcio -Italian soccer, the red tape and bureaucracy of the Italian Government and how Italians themselves skirt paying tevú (television) taxes and of course, La Posta, the Italian post office. Mamma mia!
But Dregnis tales of teaching English to Italians are perhaps the funniest experiences he writes about in the book- from the unruly high-school students, adults that want to learn and talk about sex and even the business person who wants to learn English for career growth, but speaks in side-splitting slang in order to impress. And the school owner’s improprieties ranging from cheating with the secretary to not paying his teachers- and eventually leads to an audit from the Italian government.
His infiltration as a Lambretta owner at the important meeting of the Vespa Club d’Italia (Lambretta and Vespa are rival scooter manufacturers) held at the local insurance agent’s office, results in such overblown Italian drama- complete with fist-pounding and insult-shouting, as they talk about everything from women to authentic Vespa paint colors, to soccer!
The author also tells wonderful food stories (which of course I appreciate!) including the local trattoria, and visits to anacetaio (where they make the time-honored authentic Balsamic Vinegar) and to a Parmigiano cheese factory- that will leave you craving Italian food.
I highly recommend you get your hands on a copy of this book – but be forewarned- you’ll find yourself laughing out loud.
Perhaps in bed.
And my thanks to Heather Skinner at the University Of Minnesota Press for the review copy of the book!
Last Travel Tip Tuesday we covered cheap accommodation in Italy. This week, it’s my other twin passion we are covering- Paris.
Paris is definitely one of the chicest and most expensive cities to visit in Europe, but regardless of whether you are looking to stay in a Paris apartment or a hotel, doesn’t mean you can’t find some cheap sleeps in the City of Light!
If you are looking for a cheap, clean, basic place to sleep, sans frills and luxuries- you’ll find these three spots fit the bill. And if your looking for elevators or room-service, stay at the Ritz, where the least expensive room will set you back a mere 550€ a nite! And then move along, there is nothing for you to see here….
1. Maison Eymard. This church’s best feature is its location – just steps from the famous Champs-Elyesses, the Arc du Triompe and the Parc Monceau, in the elegant eighth arrondissement! It offers singles, double and even triples with sinks- but no showers, in the room. For that you need to head a different floor.
Rates range from 25€ to 60€ per nite and even include breakfast! Oh, but there is one catch- you have to be a part of the association, which will set you back a whopping 5€ per person!! Somehow, I think you can handle that for these downright bargain prices. Rooms are paid in cash, check, Visa or Mastercard.
23 Avenue de Friedland
Paris, 75008
01 40 76 30 30
2. Hotel Henri IV. Located smack dab in the center of Paris on the serenely quaint Place Dauphine is the 400 year old hotel, where Hemmingway once wrote. The place is sparse and plain, but clean and charming, and includes breakfast served in a little nook with a window overlooking the square. The location is outstanding- near three Métro lines, an excellent wine bar and prices range from 47€ to 81€ . If you can afford the extra pennies, spring for a room with a window or balcony. A new convenience is their website (not around when I stayed a few years back), though you still need to book by phone.
Hôtel Henri IV
25 Place Dauphine
75001, Paris
01 43 54 44 53
3. The Maison d’accueil Ephrem. Believe it or not, I hesitiate to tell you about this secret gem, as I want to keep these cheap sleeps to myself for fear they will book up, or worse yet- raise their prices. Never the less, the 53 rooms at the Guesthouse of the famous Sacre Coeur church can be had for a mere 13€ per person, with full access to the Basillica! The Guesthouse is located in the 18th arrondissement, where steps away from your door you are afforded the most glorious view of Paris, and can discover the lovely back streets of Montmartre and Rue Lepic. Guests are expected to attend mass or prayer, but I’ll tell you what- I will worship whatever God lets me stay in Paris for $20 a night…any day of the week!
Maison d’accueil Ephrem
33, Rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre
75018, Paris
01 53 41 89 09
Do you know of a cheap sleep in Paris? Mention it in the comments!
And let’s see what tips my other half is offering up at My Bella Vita today!
Many a photo of Paris taken from the banks of the Seine, contain these large dark green (often dented and graffitied) metal boxes perched precariously atop the cement walls lining the embankments that run both sides of the river.
These green boxes are owned by booksellers- called bouquinistes, who have been peddling their wares in the City of Light since the 1500's.
During the day, the boxes act as book stalls, with vendors offering a wonderful melange of vintage rare books and artwork, to modern day souvenirs like key chains, reproduction watercolors and French street signs.
I love spending a beautiful sunny day, just meandering the banks of the Seine, browsing the collections of each bookseller. It's an interesting way to spend the day and the view can't be beat! Even if you don't buy- it's an experience just holding a rare French book in your possession- if only for a few fleeting moments.
And while you're stolling, when you come to a bridge, why not cross to the other side- pausing in the middle, to take in the wonderful views and different perspectives as you move up and down the river?
At the end of a busy day, the bouquinistes lock up their boxes, with their goods still inside, and leave the boxes as the recognizable eyesores that have become a staple of the Parisian landscape.
Have you shopped at any of the Bouquinistes in Paris? What was your best find?
Roasting tomatoes is so very easy- and it gives them a delicious sweet flavor!
The process couldn't be simpler, really. And roasted tomatoes make a perfect pasta topping when you are looking for something quick!
Start with a container of grape or cherry tomatoes. Wash, dry and arrange them in a single layer on a baking sheet, lined with foil.
Douse with a few splashes of extra-virgin olive oil, salt and pepper, toss and roast in the oven on 400°, just until they burst open- about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, I boil whatever pasta I have in the pantry- this time it was penne.
Throw the cooked, drained pasta in a large bowl- top with the hot tomatoes right out of the oven, making sure to scrape all the juices, oil and ever morsel of seasonings over top as well as a few more splashes of olive oil.
Toss in a handful each of roughly chopped (or julienned if you are extra-fancy!) fresh basil and Italian parsley and a good helping of freshly grated Parmeggiano-Reggiano.
Toss together and serve.
Buon Appetito!
Not everyone can afford to stay at 5-star hotels or glorious spacious villas when traveling to the Bel Paese. And though at this point, I think everyone knows enough to surf on-line for discount hotels or hostels- there are some other options out there that might just have you ignoring the dollar's all-time-low- and pressing on to plan that next vacation to Italy!
So, let's think outside the box this Travel Tip Tuesday, as we discuss some options that may or may not be for everyone.
Convents. They are not just for die-hard catholics anymore. And though some of them may have an early curfew that could cramp your style, often you get a lovely, inexpensive, clean room, with polite staff and generally , peace and quiet. Convents and monasteries can be a bit harder to find, so while staying in one may save you financially, you'll no doubt have to put in some extra time up front with research. Try Monastery Stays on-line, or read through Lodging in Italy's Monastaries or Bed and Blessings.
Couchsurfing. A friend introduced me to this. I had heard of it conceptually, but never realized that it had materialized into an actual and "popular" activity. Said friend managed to stay in Italy for 10 days, without laying out a Euro for accommodation, thanks to this option. Generous folks from all over the world offer up couches (or beds) in their homes, for free. If you are lucky, maybe you'll get your own bedroom. If not, perhaps you'll wake up on the living room couch, with your roomy slaughtering a pig in the kitchen, while a rooster pecks at your leg. Use caution, but check out the 21,000 available couches in Italy.
Home Exchange. Don't fancy staying in a house, when your newly found friends (read, strangers) are sharing it with you? Well, perhaps a home swap , or home exchange is more your style. And if the movie, 'The Holiday' is any indication of the result, I'd have no hesitation saying yes- especially if the houses looked those and Jude Law came with the property! To visit the source featured in the movie, use HomeExchange.com. Another option is HomeForExchange.com. Many sites have a membership fee, but if you use the service regularly, it's really a mere pittance compared to what you'll save in the long run!
Agriturismo. This is a great option for those who don't mind doing a little work. In the field, that is. The rewards can be great though- being treated like a member of the family, and eating meals prepared with the fruits of your labor. Keep in mind, since most of these are considered, 'farm holiday's' it's unlikely you'll find one in the center of Rome. Agriturismi are best for those wanting to say in the countryside, or at least a short drive from town.
And though some of the more upscale agriturismi may never have your lifting a finger (and therefore costing more!), the options where you do work, are likely to be an authentic stay you won't forget. To qualify as an agriturismo, the property must be a working farm, that generates more than half its income from its own agriculture. Fruits, veggies, milk, cheese, olive oil, wine and the like. It's hard for Italy to regulate these farms, so they vary widely in quality. Make sure you do your homework, so that you are not sleeping in the chicken coop. Agriturismo Italy is a good place to start. And if you'd rather have an agency do the work for you, try Farm Holidays.
And speaking of Italy, let's head over there now and see what tips Cherrye is offering up today!