Six Tiny Towns on the French Riviera
You’ve seen the gorgeous pictures of the French Riviera, boasting its lofty cliffs that overlook the sparkling blue water and the many yachts and sailboats that visit the ports each year. To say the least, the French Riviera is breathtaking. It is one of the most well-known resort areas and coastal regions in the world.
The sailboats and yachts are proof of this as their sterns’ reveal the names of their home, which come from all over the world! The mild-climate and colorful landscape have made the French Riviera a popular vacation destination. Year-round, tourists visit the famous towns along the coastline—Nice, Monte Carlo, St. Tropez, Cannes—and indulge in the lush beaches, museums, and overall glamour of the area. However, there is more to the French Riviera. Charming small towns and villages in the hillside are just beckoning you to explore. Check out these six tiny towns of the French Riviera!
Beaulieu-sur-Mer
South of Monaco is the small town of Beaulieu-sur-Mer, which means “beautiful place on the sea” in French. This town is said to have one of the prettiest marinas on the Cote d’Azur. Take advantage of the numerous restaurants on this harbor, and dine al fresco while enjoying the lovely view of the boats lined up in the marina.
In Beaulieu-sur-Mer you can experience a little bit of Greece by visiting the Villa Kérylos, which is a reproduction (built in 1908) of a fifth century B.C. Athenian home. It is fully furnished and decorated, and is even available for events and weddings. Admission is 8 euro. If you want to spend a day relaxing on the beach, head to the beach at Baie des Fourmis. Although it is near the center of town, this beach is isolated enough for a serene afternoon by the sea. At the end of the day, dress your best, grab your passport, put on your poker face, and head to Casino Beaulieu-sur-Mer for a night on the town!
Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat
South of Beaulieu-sur-Mer, on the small peninsula, is the town of Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat. Here, you’re bound to bump into someone famous since Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat is a popular winter getaway for the rich and famous. Walking lovers rejoice! This is the perfect town to explore by foot with its 14 km coastal path hike. The path is divided into three parts: tour of Cap Ferrat, Pine Forest, and the Maurice Rouvier walk, which will actually lead you into Beaulieu!
If you have a soft spot for furry critters, visit the zoo, which is home to over 300 animals. Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat is the home of the beautiful palace, Grand Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, which is surrounded by a colorful garden. Even if you can’t afford to spend the night in the luxurious suites, you can still enjoy dinner at the newly reopened restaurant. And if you really want to see a glamorous building, visit the Villa Ile de France. This palace is furnished with the treasures of Béatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild including various works of art and furniture. When you finish with the interior of the mansion, go outside and wander through the seven different gardens, each with its own theme: Florentine, Spanish, and Japanese, the garden of muses, the garden of lapidary, and the rose garden.
With all of the walking and sightseeing, you’re bound to work up an appetite. Just walk along the port and choose a cozy restaurant of your choice for a delicious meal while overlooking the water. For the beach lovers, there are three different beaches to choose from in Cap Ferrat. At the base of the cliffs and just a five to ten minute walk from the port is Paloma beach. Because of the protection from the cliffs, this beach doesn’t get as much wind, but it also has less sun in the afternoon. Passable beach is northwest of the peninsula, near the Office of Tourisme and the zoo. If you enjoy being around other beach-goers, head to the popular Cro de Pei Pin beach, which is north of the port at the Anse Lilong bay.
Vence
Vence is known as the “City of Art.” Artists flock to this little town on the Riviera, using the previous geniuses—Dufy, Matisse, Chagall, Dubuffet—as inspiration for their artwork. Visit one of the many galleries, or simply wander around and admire the sculptures and buildings around the town. Take a stroll down Avenue Henri Matisse and explore the Chapelle Matisse (also known as the Chapelle du Rosaire des Dominicanes de Vence). If you’re lucky, you may even get a chance to visit an outdoor art exhibit.
This little town is not just about art; it has a great medieval history as well. There are five medieval ports that lead into Vence: Portail Levis, Porte du Peyra, Tour-Porte du Signadour, Porte du Faubourg ou Pontis, and Porte d’Orient. Stop by the Office de Tourisme and pick up a map for a self-guided walking tour. Throughout Vence, there are pale-grey numbered panels that describe the historical sites on the Visite de la Cité Historique. Don’t miss the Fountaine de la Foux, which supplies mineral water from La Foux river. Visitors have been known to take a jug-full of the pure water!
Eze
Built up by the Saracen pirates in the thirteenth century, Eze became one of the main “Villages Perche.” The Villages Perche got their name because of the way they appeared to be sitting on the cliffs or glued to the sides of the mountains. Because it was so hard to reach, Eze was abandoned until the 1920’s when the proper technology allowed for road systems and access to water. Now, visitors can walk through the streets, stopping in shops that carry artisan crafts. With the warm climate, Eze has beautiful vegetation of bananas, dates, and carob trees. There’s vegetation that is even more vibrant in the exotic botanic garden Jardin Exotique Panorama that you can visit for twelve euro. There are two perfumeries in Eze—Galimard and Fragonard—and with a map from the Office de Tourisme, you can save 10% off your purchase.
Peillon
Truly get away from the tourists and embark on a medieval adventure with a trip to Peillon. No cars are allowed in Peillon (probably because they wouldn’t be able to fit through the narrow streets); therefore, visitors must park at the plaza, which is at the entrance to the village. Peillon doesn’t have the typical souvenir shops, just a few hotels and restaurants outside the village. At the plaza outside Peillon is the only gift shop, La Maiouneta. Here you can find produce, ceramics, and other gifts for passing tourists. The stone houses seem as though they are built into the rock, lining the narrow streets. You’ll be busy all day touring the medieval buildings.
La Turbie
La Turbie is known as the “balcony” of the French Riviera, overlooking the Principality of Monaco. In La Turbie, you will find the pride of the town, the Trophée d’Auguste (also known as the Trophée des Alpes) built by Emperor Augustus in 13 B.C. It was a symbol of the unity and power of the Roman Empire. Now, you can visit this 35-meter tall statue and the adjacent museum and learn more about the history. Admission is 5 euro for adults and 3.50 euro for 18-25 year olds. Visit the 18th century Saint Michel’s Church, which is a baroque church that was built using the ruins from the Trophée des Alpes. It is decorated with art from the 15th century, and is open every day until 6 pm. Nature lovers can wander through the Grand Corniche Nature Park, taking in the view from the top, while shoppers can enjoy exploring the central part of the village along the Moyenne Corniche Highway.
What’s your favorite town on the French Riviera?
Written by : Laura Photo Credits: hillsieboy / jcoterhals / sara maternini / exfordyswife / bousinka / tyb
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Travel Tip Tuesday : Budget Sleeps in Europe
You may remember a Travel Tip Tuesday a while back where I talked about finding budget accommodations when traveling to Europe. I have even covered cheap sleeps in Paris and in Italy.
As luck would have it a whole new crop of non-hotel websites have popped onto my radar, thanks to a recent article in the New York Times Travel Section, titled Europe Without Hotels.
It’s a great article, definitely worth a read. To give you a short overview – basically, there are sites out there a bit more sophisticated and safer than Craig’s List, that offer rooms in someone’s home or apartment which can cost much less than a hotel room.
The other bonus with these types of rooms? You get to meet and hang out with a local in their city. Imagine the cultural lesson you could have. And the great local spots that they’ll point you too. Shopping, eating, walking, great music venues….the possibilities are endless!
Here are the websites that were mentioned in the article.
- AirBnB.com The site looks pleasing to the eye, there are reviews from others who have stayed and they have gotten alot of good press recently, which perhaps adds to their credibility.
- iStopOver.com This site also rents office space – but I searched for rooms in Paris and found about 76 options in the City of Light. Prices ranged from $100 to $2,000 per night and some of the photos looked gorgeous.
- Crashpadder.com If you are heading to London, this is the site for you. With over 1,000 listings available for rent, you are sure to find something that suits you. There are considerably less for France and Italy, but perhaps those numbers will grow over time. It’s certainly worth keeping your eye on this website.
I am going to add my own honorable mention. At a recent travel conference, I had the pleasure of meeting the founder of an organization called Casa Casa. Casa Casa is billed as ‘bed & breakfast hospitality on a budget!’ Right up my alley.
Hospitable folks interested in hosting travelers join for a small membership fee of about $20 and get to stay in a selection of 190 members’ private homes. You will only need to pay a small gratuity for your room, rather than the typical nightly room rate at a B&B. The majority of locations are in the U.S., but there are a handful of members in Europe as well.
These type of unique and up-close-and-personal travel experiences are definitely not for everyone. But for a budget-minded people-person, who loves learning about the local culture, it might just be perfect.
Would you seek out one of these options when traveling? Would you actually be a host and have travelers stay with you? And if you already participated in this, why not share your experiences in the comments?
Don’t forget to visit Cherrye for your second dose of travel tips!
Famous Gardens in Italy
Visiting museums will teach you about the culture and history of a region, especially in Italy with its Renaissance influences. You can see the talent of artists and architects from their paintings and buildings, their masterpieces. However, by walking through some of the beautifully constructed gardens of Italy, you experience the same rich history and splendor of a museum, only takes place under the bright blue skies with fresh air and bubbling fountains. Here are five gardens in Italy worth visiting!
Boboli Gardens
Beyond the Medici-owned Palazzo Pitti in Florence are the magnificent Boboli Gardens. The grounds were originally designed by Niccolò Tribolo, but were added to over the centuries. With its well-planned gardens and sculptures, the Boboli Gardens served as the model for all European royal gardens. After spending an afternoon walking through the winding paths, you will understand why!
Once you enter the gardens (through either the Pitti Palace or the Porta Romana entrance), you will encounter the Amphitheatre, in which concerts are still held today. Here, a huge ancient Egyptian obelisk statue marks your entrance into this paradise within the busy city. Further down, explore The Large Cave, which consists of three “caves” embellished with decorations of carved stalactites and sculptures by Michelangelo and Giambologna. Michelangelo carved the Four Prisoners into the walls of one of these smaller caves in La Grotta Grande. Today, only copies of these original sculptures remain.
As you wander along the hilly paths, take a stroll down the Cyprus-lined Viottolone (the central avenue) to the Piazzale dell’Isolotto. A small island full of lemon trees and flowers sits in the middle of a large basin in the Piazzale dell’Isolotto. Neptune’s Fountain also rises from this basin. With all of the walking, you’ll be sure to work up an appetite. Don’t be afraid to bring snacks or wine because visitors are allowed to picnic in the gardens.
The Boboli Gardens open at 9 am and close about one hour before sunset. Admission costs three euro, and tickets can be purchased at the entrance to the Pitti Palace.
Villa Gamberaia
Villa Gamberaia is located on the Settignano hillside outside of Florence and is regarded as one of the most perfect gardens in Italy. It was built in the seventeenth century by the Florentine Zanobi Lapi who included many elements of a classic Tuscan garden: cypress allie, a bowling green, a nymphaeum, grotto gardens, woods, formal gardens, and a lemon terrace.
The high altitude of this villa offers splendid views over Florence and the Arno Valley, and the gardens of Villa Gamberaia have been praised by such authors as Edith Wharton and Charles Latham. Villa Gamberaia is open daily from 9 am to 6 pm. Admission for the villa and the gardens is ten euro.
Villa Carlotta
If you’re a true gardener, Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo (on Lake Como) is the place for you. It was built at the end of the seventeenth century by Milanese Giorgio Clerici, but it was under the ownership of Gian Battista Sommariva that made it the gem it is today. He turned it into a haven for famous pieces of art and added the renowned romantic garden.
The villa eventually came into hands of Princess Marianne of Nassau, who gave it to her daughter Carlotta as a wedding present. Carlotta’s husband, Georg II of Saxen-Meiningen revamped the garden with his botanical knowledge, and helped spark the villa’s sterling reputation for its beautiful gardens. Today, the gardens include over 150 types of flowers in the spring: rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, to name a few.
Cedars, sequoias, and tropical plants also thrive in this garden. As you continue walking through the paths, you will venture into the Rock Gardens, Ferns Valley, Rhododendrons’ Wood, Bamboos’ Garden, and the agriculture tools’ museum. Pack a small cooler with your favorite Italian goodies and prepare to enjoy a romantic picnic in one of the designated picnic areas.
Villa Carlotta is open from the end of March to the middle of October from 9 am to 6 pm. For students, admission is 4.50 euro; adult admission is 8.50 euro.
Villa d’Este
If you’re looking for a day-trip from Rome, visit Villa d’Este in Tivoli. Often called “The Garden of Miracles,” this garden has made it onto the UNESCO world heritage list. All of the structures and elements of design have some meaning or significance to ancient Rome, the Renaissance, or the sixteenth century political struggles with the Church of Rome. While the other gardens are known for their botanical beauty, this garden is known for its amazing fountains and waterworks.
At the center of Villa d’Este is the Fountain of the Dragon. The fountain consists of four dragon-heads spouting water in a cave between two stairways and two dolphin-and-shell-shaped pools. The statue of Hercules is also located in this fountain. Down the Avenue of 100 Fountains is the famous Fountain of Tivoli.
But the most entertaining fountain of Villa d’Este is the Fountain of the Water Organ. This water-and-air-powered musical fountain is the engineering of 2000-year-old water technology! The fountain’s plumbing system eroded over the years, ruining its musical nature, but it was saved by British organ specialists who studied and actually rebuilt a similar plumbing structure just to figure out how to fix the original fountain!
The gardens open at 8:30 am and close one hour before sunset. They are closed on Mondays. Admission is ten euro.
Villa Melzi Gardens
Located in Bellagio, the Villa Melzi Gardens are a beautiful way to sightsee on Lake Como. As opposed to the traditional Tuscan and Italian gardens, Villa Melzi Gardens are proper English-style gardens. The pathways wind through the rolling shores of Lake Como, offering breathtaking views. Be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes because there’s a lot to see at Villa Melzi.
The Oriental Garden contains a water-lilies pool and exotic Nippon-acer plants. At the opposite end of the garden, the Bamboos Grove presents corresponding exotic species. Walk along the Plant-Tree Drive, which are shaded paths along the lake. The branches of the trees have been pruned into an umbrella-shape, which give some shelter from the hot afternoon sun. At the end of this drive is the terrace that overlooks the lake. A water-lilies pool and statues decorate this terrace.
Further down the path, you can take another break to cool down in the Chapel that will dazzle you with its neoclassical sculptures and carvings. And don’t forget to check out the Greenhouses and Rocky Garden. Also located in the gardens is a small museum that used to be the greenhouse for citrus trees during the winter months. It now houses artifacts from the Napoleonic era.
Make sure you have your camera ready for the Kiosk Zone, which used to be the former tennis grounds. A beautiful gazebo sits on the edge of the shore, allowing you to take a moment to marvel at the beautiful surroundings.
Villa Melzi Gardens are open from late March to late October. Admission is six euro.
What are your favorite gardens to visit in Italy?
Written by: Laura Photo Credits: ingorrr / mikeshdesign / spigoo / ingorr / MartinHapl
Five Famous Gardens in France
While in a picturesque foreign country, like France, it’s great to check out the bustling cities and the famous artwork, but don’t forget to enjoy the more natural side. Beauty doesn’t require complex architecture or a practiced paintbrush—it can be found by simply taking a stroll and appreciating the gifts that Mother Nature offers us (and appreciating the gardeners dedicated to maintaining those gifts). Whether you fancy award-winning roses, mazelike patterns of shrubbery, or water-lilies worthy of the attention of an artist, there is a garden for everyone to enjoy in France.
Monet’s Garden
One of the popular gardens to visit in France is Monet’s Garden in Giverny. This modest home and sprawling garden served as home to the famous artist Claude Monet from 1883 until his death in 1926. After almost 10 years of restoration efforts, Monet’s property was finally opened to the public in 1980.
The gardens, which you can wander through and admire, provided the inspiration for some of Monet’s most famous paintings. When visiting this gorgeous floral landmark, you can view the flower garden “Clos Normand,” located in front of the house, or you can cross the street and peruse Japanese inspired water gardens, featuring Monet’s famous water lilies and Japanese bridge.
Though extensive remodeling and replanting took place to return Monet’s house and gardens to their former glory, the garden was designed by Monet himself. Visiting the garden is a great way to experience, first hand, a historic piece of beauty that inspired priceless artwork.
The Gardens of Versailles
If you’re looking to see an impressively large example of a Classic French garden, look no further than the gardens at the palace of Versailles. The gardens of Versailles are perhaps one of the most visited public sites in France and it’s not hard to see why if you have the chance to take them in. Also known as the Château de Versailles, the palace served as a home for the French monarchy for centuries.
The most notable inhabitant, King Louis XIV (“The Sun King”), expanded the building and grounds to their current size and majesty in the 1600s. The gardens, which were designed by André Le Nôtre, boast sculptures, manicured lawns, and parterres of flowers. It is, however, the multitude of fabulous fountains that contribute largely to the popularity of this spectacular garden. Whether you have a chance to view the entirety of the grounds, or you simply stop to admire one of the more noticeable fountains, the Gardens of Versailles will certainly strike you as worthy of royalty.
Château de Villandry
Perhaps the gardens with the longest and most culturally diverse back-story are the gardens at the Château de Villandry in the Loire Valley. This large estate and its grounds were constructed by Jean Le Breton in 1536. Le Breton had been an ambassador to Italy, where he studied Italian Renaissance gardens, and as such the original gardens largely reflected an Italian influence.
However, during the 19th century, Villandry came into the hands of the Marquis de Castellane, who redesigned the gardens to look more like an English style park. Over time the gardens fell into disrepair and they probably would have been demolished, however the Château de Villandry was rescued by Joachim Carvallo in 1906.
Carvallo, who was born in Spain, abandoned his science career to devote his life to reviving the Château and its gardens. Villandry is now home to a very interesting array of unique gardens, including the Potager and The Garden of love. The Potager is a kitchen garden, which was inspired by those found during medieval times in monasteries. Many of the other gardens on the property, including The Garden of Love, are composed of boxwood shrubs, painstakingly clipped into fascinating geometric designs and filled in with vibrant clumps of flowers. Letting yourself get lost in this mazelike set of gorgeous gardens will certainly be worth the visit.
Jardin des Tuileries
Situated between the Louvre and Palace de la Concorde, the Jardin des Tuileries is one of the most central gardens in Paris. This garden, and its adjoining palace, was built for Catherine de Medici on what was originally a clay quarry used to make tiles (known in French as tuileries). Though originally an Italian style garden, it was redesigned in the French Formal style between 1660 and 1664 by André Le Nôtre.
While walking through the garden you may admire the two large basins, the variety of fountains, or the new modern-style sculptures (which were added during renovations in 1990). In addition to the outdoor artwork interspersed throughout the garden you may want to check out the two museums on the premises: The Galerie Nationale de Jeu de Paume, or the Musée de’l Orangerie, in which you’ll find Claude Monet’s large water lily paintings.
The museum buildings themselves are also of interest since they are the remains of the Palace of Tuileries. Whether you’re more interested in modern sculptures, or the historic ruins of a castle, you’ll certainly find that the Jardin des Tuileries has come a long way from clay and tiles. If you happen to be making a summer visit, this garden hosts an annual funfair.
Bagatelle Gardens
Located on the edge of Bois de Boulogne, the Château Bagatelle and the Bagatelle Gardens have also come a long way. The Château, which was a hunting lodge, was purchased from the Prince de Chimay by Louis XVI’s brother, the Comte d’Artois.
As he began his expansion of the Château and grounds, Marie Antoinette wagered against the Comte, saying that the renovations of the Château could not be completed within 3 months. With the help of the architect François Joseph Belanger, as well as a vast amount of money, the Comte had his Château and its gardens completed in 63 days!
After the revolution, the Bagatelle came into the hands of Richard Seymour Conway who restored the gardens and added a grand entrance, stables, and an orangerie. By 1905, the city of Paris acquired the Château Bagatelle and Claude Nicolas Forestier (Commissioner of Gardens in Paris) established the Bagatelle’s now famous rose garden. Initially a simple hunting lodge, the Château Bagatelle now boasts a rose garden with over 9000 roses (1000 varieties) and is the site for an annual rose competition every June.
Which French garden have you visited? Tell us about your favorite?
Written by: Kelly Whelan Photo Credits: Nina Volare / HarshLight / ell brown / robin locker / gabrilu
France for Foodies : Goat Cheese
When it comes to food, French cheese holds a dear place in my heart (as I’m sure it does in most of yours). There’s something about the texture, the flavors, and the way it seems to go with everything that makes cheese so wonderful.
While there are numerous types of French cheese, goat cheese has one of the highest rankings in my book. It gets its distinctive flavor from the goat’s natural hormones and diet. This cheese is also versatile because of its maturation process, meaning that it can be fresh and soft, semi-firm, or brittle and crumbly. You can even find this sweet and salty cheese flavored with herbs and spices, coated in ash or charcoal, or even marinated in olive oil. Goat cheese has a lower fat, cholesterol, and calorie content than cow’s milk cheese, but it also has more protein and calcium; it seems that goat cheese is the way to go!
France is known for its phenomenal food and wine, but it is also the heart of goat cheese, or fromages de chèvre, production. There are over one hundred varieties of fromages de chèvre in France alone. However, Loire Valley (the Garden of France) produces 70% of all goat cheeses in the country. It was in Loire Valley that goat’s milk cheese originated; the Saracens, who once inhabited the deserts of Syria, left behind their goats along with recipes for making cheese in the region of Poitiers during the 8th century.
Loire Valley exhibits fine wines and cheeses, including six goat cheeses—Saint-Maure de Touraine, Selles-sur-Cher, Valençay, Pouligny-Saint-Pierre, Chabichou du Poitou, and Crottin de Chavignol—that are AOC (Appellation d’Origene Controlee) certified. This certification guarantees that the products were made within a specific region of France, following certain production methods.
- Sainte-Maure de Touraine
Sainte-Maure de Touraine is in the form of a log, with a blue-grey rind. It is rolled in black wood ash, yet has a walnut aroma. Early on, this cheese is smooth and creamy, but as it ages, it becomes a drier and denser cheese.
- Selles-sur-Cher
This cheese (sold in a cylindrical shape) is also rolled in charcoal ash. The ash grows a blue-grey mould that gives the cheese a strong flavor. It is harder and heavier, with a moist texture. This cheese will just melt in your mouth!
- Valençay
Valençay goat cheese comes in the form of a small black pyramid with a flat top. Legend has it that Napoleon spitefully swiped the tip of this cheese off with his sword after returning with disappointment from his campaign in Egypt. The rind has a natural mould that is covered with salted powdered charcoal. It has a soft and nutty flavor. Valençay is usually eaten on crackers, as hors d’oeuvres, or even with baked potatoes. Sometimes it is eaten in thin slices as an aperitif or an after-dinner-treat.
- Pouligny-Saint-Pierre
This soft and moist goat cheese, is also known for its pyramid shape. When first produced, the rind is soft and ivory-colored. As the cheese ages, the rind wrinkles dry out and become reddish-orange. Pouligny-Saint-Pierre has a creamy and nutty flavor.
- Chabichou du Poitou
From the region of Poitou (cheeses usually take the name of the local village in which they’re produced), Chabichou is a sweet goat cheese. It has a smooth thin rind of white, yellow, and blue mould. The cheese is best when farm-made, but it is also produced co-operatively and industrially. When it matures, Chabichou is denser and smoother. It is usually a dessert cheese, and is mostly served in the summer.
- Crottin de Chavignol
The most famous goat cheese of the Loire Valley is Crottin de Chavignol. This cheese has a hard black surface with a sour, sweet, and slightly salty taste. What makes this cheese unique is that it can be eaten at different stages of the maturation process. When it is first made, Chavignol is wrapped in herb leaves and is creamy and nutty. As it ages, it becomes more brittle with a more distinct flavor. Chavignol is 100% whole goat’s milk. It is served warmed and grilled on a chevre salad, which makes a fabulous appetizer.
- Banon
Coming from northern Provence, Banon cheese is a unique sweet cheese. It is wrapped in chestnut leaves and tied with raffia, keeping it fresh. There is a small percentage of cow’s milk in Banon, but it maintains the salty and creamy flavor of goat cheese. Banon has a citrusy and woody flavor and is best after it has been ripened for a few weeks. It pairs well with fresh fruit and a sweet dessert wine.
- Brocciu
Brocciu is one of the national foods of Corsica and is the only AOC cheese made with whey. It is similar to Italy’s ricotta cheese. It is best two days after the product has been ripened for two weeks. This sweet cheese is used in soups, vegetable recipes, omelets, and pastries. In some instances, it is served for breakfast with jam.
- Chèvre
Chèvre is pure goat’s milk cheese that comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. You can find this cheese covered in ash, leaves, herbs, or pepper. When it is young, chèvre is mild and creamy, but it becomes drier, firmer, and more acidic as it ages. It pairs well with French bread and olives or figs. It is also used in salads, omelets, pizzas, and soufflés.
- Picodon de Chèvre
From the Ardèche mountains and region of Drôme, Picodon de Chèvre is an aromatic goat cheese. It is sweet in its youth, but becomes more potent with age. Picodon is typically preserved in olive oil.
Are you dreaming of tasting goat cheese on your France vacation? Click here to see how I can encorporate it in your foodie adventure or get in touch so I can set up a cheese tasting for you!
Written by: Laura Photos: A huge thank you to the French cheese goddess herself, Chez Loulou. All photos can be found in her Flickr stream.
Florentine Food Specialties
If you’re a fan of beans, grilled meats, rustic Italian bread—eating it plain, or dipping it in olive oil—and wine, you will also be a fan of the food of the Tuscan region, particularly Florence. Traditional dishes of Florence are simple yet bursting with flavor. They originated from basic recipes concocted by the poor families of the region who needed to make use of the resources they had, and who did not waste anything. (Several delicious dishes—panzanella, ribollita, and pappa al pomodoro—derived from this method of “recycling food.”)
In Florence, dinnertime (as with other meals) is not a rushed occasion, and for the number of courses served for dinner, a long and relaxing dinner is best. The nice thing about a lengthy dinner is that it allows you to taste a bit of all the Florentine dishes. Dinner begins with the Antipasto. This starter course usually consists of a type of sliced salami ranging from prosciutto to soppressata, and crostini. Crostini di fegato , with a spread made of chicken or goose liver, capers, anchovies, onions, butter, and broth, is the most common of these canapés.
After the antipasto, the primi piatti, or first course is served. With the first course, you have the option of choosing a soup (most of which contain stale bread and beans), pasta, gnocchi, polenta, and risotto.
Ribollita
Although it is simple, ribollita is one of Florence’s most popular specialties. This hearty soup is made from cannellini beans, various vegetables, red cabbage, and chunks of stale bread. Making ribollita is actually a long process—approximately three days to be exact. The soup begins as traditional minestrone with vegetables and beans. The stale bread is added to the leftovers on the second day, and the whole pot is re-boiled (giving the soup its name) and served on the third day.
Pappa al Pomodoro
Another one of Florence’s notable soups is pappa al pomodoro, which is a bread and tomato soup. Like the ribollita, this dish came about because families did not want to waste leftover bread. This soup consists of tomatoes, bread, garlic, basil, and olive oil. Tomatoes did not appear in the original recipe because they had yet to be introduced to Europe. This original bread-mush was used as an early baby food.
Panzanella
If you’re not in the mood for soup but still want to taste the flaky Italian bread, try the panzanella, or stale-bread-salad. “Stale bread” may not sound very appetizing, but when paired with the other ingredients, you’ll definitely ask for more. The traditional salad is made with fresh vegetables, fresh tomatoes, and stale bread. It is then seasoned with basil, olive oil, vinegar, and a dash of salt and pepper. Other variations of panzanella include a mixture of lettuce, white or red wine, capers, anchovies, celery, carrots, red onion, cucumber, tuna, parsley, mint, bell peppers, lemon juice, and garlic.
Pappardelle
Pappardelle is one of Florence’s most popular pasta dishes for the primi piatti. The pasta used for this dish is thicker spaghetti, which is placed over hare sauce and then mixed in to coat the strands of pasta. The pasta is then seasoned with porcini mushrooms, meat sauces, artichokes, or whatever else the cook chooses.
Once you are finished with your primi piatti, it is time to move onto the secondi piatti, or second course. The secondi piatti is the main course, the bulk of the dinner. These dishes are sometimes served with side dishes of ceci all’olio (seasoned chickpeas), fritto miso (fried vegetables), and fagioli all’uccelletto (beans boiled and fried in tomato sauce and oil). In the secondi piatti, you’ll find meat, chicken, fish and seafood.
Bistecca alla fiorentina
When you visit Florence, ordering the bistecca alla fiorentina is a must! This T-bone steak has gained recognition as one of Florence’s greatest dishes. However, any steak cannot simply transform into the bistecca alla fiorentina; this Florentine specialty is so distinct because it is a special cut of Chianina beef. This thick cut of beef is grilled over a wood or charcoal fire and seasoned with salt, pepper, and olive oil. What also separates this steak from others is the fact that it is cooked “undone,” meaning it is only slightly cooked. The inside of the steak must remain tender and pink, while the outer layer is grilled and crispy. Now, if you do order the bistecca alla fiorentina, you may want to consider sharing it with your companion since these steaks tend to be huge, but definitely full of flavor.
Trippa alla fiorentina
As you peruse the menus in a Florence trattoria or osteria, you will notice that tripe frequently makes an appearance. Tripe, or cow’s stomach, is a popular ingredient in Florentine cooking. It is used in traditional dishes (trippa alla fiorentina) and in sandwiches (lampredotto). (I have a friend who rarely eats red meat, but even she raved about the lampredotto sandwiches!) You may be tentative to try the cow stomach, but after you try the trippa alla fiorentina, you may just change your mind. This dish is made by sautéing the tripe with olive oil, chopped onion, and tomatoes. Before it is served, it is topped with freshly grated parmesan cheese.
Pollo alla fiorentina
If you prefer chicken to red meat and cow stomach, opt for the pollo alla fiorentina. This savory dish consists of breaded chicken breasts covered in a sauce of spinach, onion, celery, cream cheese, paprika, and garlic. And of course, the dish is topped with parmesan cheese.
Casseruola alla fiorentina
The Italians are known for their exquisite pasta dishes. So if you didn’t get your pasta-fix with the primi piatti, the casseruola alla fiorentina will fulfill your craving. This casserole begins with covering pasta or noodles with a sauce of spinach, cream of mushroom soup, garlic, tarragon, and marjoram. Bits of sausage are thrown into the mix as well, and then the whole casserole covered with an egg and ricotta mixture. Many Florentines like to serve this dish at a cool temperature during the warm summer months.
By the end of a typical Florentine dinner, you will be happily stuffed from the night’s gourmet dishes. But even though your hunger may be satiated, you must still experience some of the region’s delectable homemade desserts.
Schiacciata alla fiorentina
Schiacciata alla fiorentina is sure to satisfy your sweet tooth. This dessert is a sweet sponge cake that is filled with cream, icing, or chocolate cream. It is then drizzled with icing sugar. Sciacciata alla fiorentina is most popular in February during the festival of Carneval, but you can enjoy this light and tasty sponge cake anytime!
Schiacciata con l’uva
For another sweet dessert, try the schiacciata con l’uva (sweet grape bread). This sweet bread is made by sprinkling fresh grapes with sugar and then baking them between two layers of dough. It is seasoned with olive oil and rosemary.
Castagnaccio
If you’re a fan of nuts, castagnaccio is the dessert for you. This chestnut cake is made from chestnut flour! Pine nuts, raisins, and rosemary leaves give this cake its sweet flavor.
Written by: Laura Photo Credits: talkoftomatoes / Robin Locker / thepinkpeppercorn / alexandra’s /
What’s your favorite Florentine specialty?
Travel Photo Friday : Rome’s Colosseum by Night
This month’s Travel Photo Friday submission is from Joshua C. Forest.
It’s a stunning shot of the Colosseum, an ancient Ampitheather in Rome, under the dark night sky.
“My girlfriend and I were wandering around near the Forum before heading back to our
room when I decided to try and get this shot. It took me a while to
get the shot I wanted, I have many blurry ones to prove it.“
What a beautiful shot – thanks for sending in it, Joshua.
If you have a favorite travel photo you would like featured in Travel Photo Friday, send it along with a short description to mymelange {at} yahoo {dot} com.
See you all August 6th for our next edition!
