Continuing with our TTT theme from last week, I thought I would round-out my Canadian destination recommendations from my recent trip. Well, if October is recent. Seems like it was just yesterday!
There is so much more to do, so many more choices of areas to stay and places to eat. The area is a mix of Manhattan meets Europe. But here are my favorites.
Where to stay?
Montreal is pretty big city. There are many diverse sections of the city that each offer a different vibe- similar to New York City. Since we were in an Old World Europe state-of-mind, we chose to stay in Old Montreal. It offers lots of shops, cobbled streets, calache, restaurants and it happens to be the closest area to the waterfront.
We chose the Auberge Bonaparte, partly because of its location, but mainly because I scored a deal through Travelocity that also included breakfast in their fabulous restaurant every morning and a large discount off the advertised room rates.
The rooms were large, with wood floors, large comfy iron beds, an armoire, a desk, cable TV and a brand new tiled bath, with room enough for five.
The breakfast was top notch, with lots of options, including crêpes, French toast, omlettes and oatmeal/granola.
Where to eat?
My favorite and easiest to recommend was Lucca. Delicious Italian food in the Little Italy section of Montreal. Everything was cooked to perfection and the wines on offer were excellent and very reasonable. Choose from a menu or blackboard specials. It isn't exactly a budget place, but the food and service is worth every penny.
Got a hankering for crêpes or chocolate? Head to the Latin Quarter to Julliet et Chocolat. Service was spotty here, but since you can drool over chocolate and the staff making crêpes, it really wasn't terrible. The savory and sweet crêpes are so devine, you'll think you are in Paris! Try a Canadian favorite-a maple and sugar crêpe.
Olive and Gourmando is a favorite hot spot, right in Old Montreal. Huge bowls of cafe au lait, croissants, fresh-fruit tarts, baguettes and other varieties of baked goods are all made on premises. This place has a cult following, so expect long lines, crowds, long waits. Your reward will be fabulous pastries, soups, salads and sandwiches!
Right across the street is a wild, convivial joint called Marche de la Villette, that is part market, part butcher shop, part bistro. The lively waitstaff are known to break into song and fake hams hang from the ceiling, but you can get great homemade food at downright cheap prices. Pate, terrine, sausage, charcuterie and cheese are on offer. Order from the table d'hote on the blackboard for the best deal.
Kashmir is a wonderful Indian restaurant located right in the cobbled streets of Old Montreal. Come here for the decor as well as the food. It is upscale with dark tables on wood floors and exposed brick walls and candles add a touch of romance. Grab a table in the back room for a view that faces the waterfront. The dishes are served in classic copper bowls. The seasonings here are spot on and the prices more than reasonable.
And if a picnic is more your style, don't forget, you can head to the Jean-Talon Market, in the Little Italy section of Montreal. You'll be able to find anything your foodie heart desires!
Have you been to Montreal? What kind of food would you like?
And unfortunately, due to an unexpected emergency in Cherrye's family, she will be taking some time off from Travel Tip Tuesday. I hope you will join me in wishing her and her family well!
I often get asked about where I sleep and eat when I come back from my travels. When I find things worth recommending I am all for shouting them from the rooftops! Though, that can be a double-edged sword. One must weigh the recommendations of treasures with the certainty that such places will become over-run with tourists. The result is often not being able to get a room/seat at these places on a return vist- or you find that the establishments have developed such cult followings-that they rest firmly and lazily on their laurels and the quality goes South for the Winter…only never to return again.
Be that as it may, I generally decide that on the off chance six of the twenty-odd people who actually read this blog and decide to visit Old Quebec City, and follow any of my recommendations, will hardly single-handedly scare the locals and the quality right outta the place.
But let me be clear here. I am all about the budget when traveling, so if you are looking for any recommendations for a 5-star luxury resort or a Michelin-starred restuarant, you have definitely come to the wrong blog! (Whoops, now down to less than 20 readers)
But, if you like bang for your hard-earned buck- than your moneytrain has just pulled into the station!
Where to stay in Old Quebec City?
Located on rue Saint-Louis in the heart of Old Quebec in Upper Town is a cute budget gem called the Auberge Saint-Louis. This is a quaint and basic hotel that is clean and has comfortable beds, rooms ranging in price from $69-$129 Canadian per night. The cheaper rooms are on the tiny and dark side, but all are decorated in zen-like monochromatic colors of white, taupe, grey and mocha.
Rooms have a small desk and cable TV. Splurge for a suite, facing the street with large French windows that let in tons of warm light, a private bath and room enough to dance. Our room had three large windows that were adorned with the most beautiful stained-glass panels above them. The rate also included a full breakfast for two at a neighboring restaurant, just two blocks walk from the Auberge.
And though I can't find reference to it on the website, if my memory serves me correctly, they have free Wifi.
Where to eat in Old Quebec City?
*For a mid-day coffee and croissant break, head to Paillard. They have the best crossiants in Old Quebec and their cafe au lait is served up in bowls, in true French fashion. They have great salads and sandwiches for lunch too. Grab a crusty-doughy Parisian-style baquette for the road.
*Looking for traditional French bistro food at downright bargain prices in a lively atmosphere? Follow the locals over to Les Frères de la Côte, which is the restaurant in the Hotel du Vieux Quebec. Choose from salmon, pizza, confit de canard and osso bucco. But the deal of the century is the never-ending bowls of mussels, prepared in your choice of three different broths, (with extra bread for broth-sopping)all for under $16.
*For a special treat, head to rue Saint-Paul in Lower Town to experience a touch of the South of France. Mistral Gagnant feels like it was plucked right from Provence. The brightly colored decor combined with the seafood-forward menu offers an experience only the French Riveira could rival. Splurge on the authentic Marsielle classic fish soup, Bouillabaise, complete with croutons and rouille. Snag one of three tables in the front window and finish off with a Pastis to help it all go down smoothly.
* The Café Experience; Many long for it-and I am no exception. And no, I am not recommending a Starbucks! I found a hidden-gem-of-a-café, in the back streets of Upper Town. Perfect for breakfast, coming in from the rain for a shot of espresso at the bar, wasting hours on your laptop or for a delicious home-made lunch prix-fixe for about $12 Canadian. Chez Temporel exudes charm and warmth with it's dim lighting, yellow walls and mahogany-colored tables. The croissants are baked in-house and you can milk your coffee all day while reading the paper without fear of being kicked to the curb!
What is most important to you when you travel? Budget acommodation, comfy beds, great restaurants?
Let's see what Cherrye is serving up this Travel Tip Tuesday!
We timed our visit to Montreal perfectly with a spectacular event that occurs in the Botanical Gardens every Fall.
A Chinese Lantern Festival.
Every Fall, the Botanical Gardens come alive with handmade silk lanterns imported from China that line the walkways and decorate the Chinese Gardens themselves.
As if the gardens, lotus-lined ponds, bonsais, bridges, and pagodas were not beautiful enough- adorned with the exquisite lanterns, they become magical!
And if you think they are beautiful during the day, when darkness sets in, these lanterns are illuminated and give off quite a special glow.
Reportedly there are more than 500 silk lanterns used in and around the gardens!
These are all just stunning, each different and more unique than the other.
Crimson red, hot pink, turquoise blue, deep purple, golden yellow-every colorful jewel-toned hue of the rainbow.
Now, don't get me wrong. There are *so* many other reasons to visit the Botanical Gardens-anytime of year. Like the Insectarium, the Rose Garden, the Aquatic Garden and the Japanese Garden. But, we were certainly glad to be able to see the Chinese Lantern Festival along with all those other wonderful attractions!
And though I have picked some lanterns for your viewing pleasure on the blog, you can be sure to find a baziilion more, including more of the surrounding gardens, here as a set in my Flickr account. If you pop on over, I promise you a delicious photo tour, you soon won't forget!
Oh, and did I mention that you can also comment on each photo on Flickr? Well, you can!
Which is your favorite?
Have you something similar where you live? Tell us about it!
These shots were taken from the top of the Citadelle in Old Quebec City. We'll talk about the Citadelle another day.
We were so high up, overlooking the Saint Lawrence River, that we were level with some of the highest rooftops in the city center.
But, not all of them of course. You remember the Chateau Frontenac. How could you forget?
Edifice Price, or the Price Building is the oldest and tallest historic building in Quebec City. I love the golden leaves in the foreground. And notice the provincial flag of Quebec flying from the tipity-top.
This one is the Parliament Building and so deliciously French. Old grey stone and zinc Mansard roofs. And there is that flag again, flying proudly. It is a favorite of mine because it has four fleur-de-lis at each corner of the flag.
The row of houses here remind me of the small streets of Butte Montmartre in Paris.
I love this slender church steeple of the Chalmers-Wesley United Church, behind the Autumn Leaves. The website I have linked to is accepting donations for work that desperately needs to be done.
The steeple disappears into the clouds, reaching for the heavens. The amber-colored leaves highlight the metal which has rusted from wear-and-tear on the old steeple.
Where have you been where the rooftops have reminded you of Paris?
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And if you like these pictures, and my other pictures on the blog, head on over to my Flickr account. You may have noticed my new Flickr badge on the sidebar. I have been hard at work uploading and creating a new Flickr account to hold all of my photos.
Of course, I have a lot more work to do, but you can find pictures of Paris, Canada, Newport, Food and the Hudson Valley. I still have more Paris pics and all of my Italy pics to upload, I'll wind up with more than 2,000 photos when I am done, but have a look around and make sure you come back as I will be consistently adding more photos.
And if you really feel like spreading the love and are a Flickr member yourself- you can always add me as a friend and contact.
Happy Flickr-in Friends!
There are lots of things I saw during my trip to the province of Quebec that reminded me of Europe, specifically France.
Last week I showed you the Jean-Talon Market. Today, my selection has to do with art.
We all know that some of the most famous artists were from or spent time in France. Monet, Manet, Toulouse-Latrec, Renoir, Cezanne- the list goes on and on.
But, the lesser known amateur artists still frequent a spot in Montmartre where they come to paint portraits of tourists and the picturesque storefronts surrounding Place du Tertre in Paris. It is a fun, lively and yes, *touristy* place. One that I am so glad I didn’t skip over.
Here are some examples of what local artists create and sell on a daily basis.
So, as I was strolling along Old Quebec City, I was so surprised to stumble across what looked just like a local open-air artwork gallery on a tiny alley called rue du Trésor. Immediately my mind raced back to the memories of the Place du Tertre.
The resemblance was uncanny. Well, except for the fact that it was only one small street, as opposed to a huge square, and there were not hoards of tourists lining the rue du Trésor. But the fact that we were there in the off-season could have something to do with it.
And what a perfect little name for this street. Trésor means treasure in French, so it seems very fitting that you could stop by and pick up a hand-painted treasure as a souvenir from Quebec City.
Rue du Trésor was founded in the 1960′s by two artists who displayed their wares hoping to attract tourists passing by on the way to the local monuments. Currently, there are 36 artists who display their wares on this little alley.
You can get more info, including the contact information for all the artists, here.
If you are planning a trip to QC, make sure you take the time to stroll down La rue du Trésor. You might just find that it reminds you of the Place du Tertre. Or better yet- you might find that one-of-a-kind treasure to hang on your wall back home.
Have you ever been somewhere that reminded you of another place you have visited? Where is your favorite open-air art gallery ?
Another very French thing about Montreal was the architecture. And as luck would have it, they also boast a Notre Dame Cathedral.
Though it is about three city blocks smaller and not quite as gargantuan, it is still beautiful, in its own right.
Especially at night. And especially since while we were there, a special light and sound show called And Then There was Light was in progress. The basillica is backlit at night with this stunning royal blue glow.
I love the shape of the windows, I love the shape of these streetlamps.
It looks so Old World to me. In fact, when it was built in the late 1800's it was the largest church in North America. Another noteworthy tidbit- the stained glass windows inside do not tell the story of the bible, but rather the history of Montreal religion.
It is stunning during the daytime with its grand Gothic style and twin towers….but it's so cold and somehow not very inviting.
But, when darkness falls, the magic of moonlight and the glow from the streetlights combine to bring a golden hue over the facade. Add the azure glow from within and somehow the scene becomes even more beautiful- more majestic. More inviting. More romantic. More mysterious.
Which do you prefer? Notre Dame by sunlight or moonlight?
There are so many things that I haven’t had a chance to share with you yet about my trip to Montreal and Quebec City. Specifically, the food. The wonderful, marvelous, delicious, French food!
To remedy that, I wanted to show you the most delicious photos of the Jean-Talon Market, located in the Little Italy section of Montreal.
Yep, a French-style food market in Little Italy. Sounds right up my alley, huh?
Hungry for more?
If you are and would like to join me on a tour of the best French food I found on my trip to Canada, it just so happens that I wrote another article for Boots N All Travel on the subject. You can read it here.
We’ll talk more about Montreal and Old Quebec City, real soon!
Where are your favorite food markets? What’s the best thing to get at your local market?
Strolling down the breakneck stairway, called the Casse-Cou that leads from upper to lower town, if you head to your left, you run into the Park Montmorency.
It was a dreadful, rainy, windy, miserable day. But we made the best of it. I love the blanket of colorful fall leaves carpeting the park. It offers a stark contrast to the black cannons and grey stone walls that would otherwise have been invisible against the steely gray pavement.
I can't imagine this park being any more beautiful than in the fall.
Quebec City is a fortified city. This park is located along the upper ramparts. These cannons are on wheels and can be swiveled about 120 degrees to the left and the right. Napoléon would feel pretty safe here.
It is a magnificent building. The Seminary was founded in 1668. I love the zinc mansard roof. Trés Francais, non?
Another close-up nearby.
This is a view looking down from the ramparts on the port below. A giant Crystal cruise-liner bellied up to the port, letting passengers off for a stroll around the city. The lifeboats secured on the sides are larger than some houses I have been in.
Trekking back up the steep staircase, we find a lovely spot to rest our creaky knees and tired tootsies.
And stare across the main square at this beautiful stone statue and fountain. An oxidized copper turret peaks out on the right.
And a view from the rear. I love the red roof in the background.
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What are some of your favorite places to visit or stroll in the fall?
One of the biggest draws of Old Quebec City is the shopping street, rue du Petit-Champlain, which is located in lower town.
Tiny little shops, with stone facades are tucked in along the cobblestone sliver of a street with the same little hand painted artistic signs found in Europe that swing from wrought iron hangers.
You'll find everything from souvenirs, designer clothing, chocolate, art galleries, gourmet food, kitchen and cookware, other specialty shops and cafes.
This shop is the perfect example. I love the bright two toned colors against the gray stone. Pot en Ciel is a gourmet cook's delight. Kitchenware, dishes, pots and pans, spices, cookbooks and more. I bought a few little treats here.
There is always a hustle and bustle in this area. Mostly tourists of course. But there are some wonderful stores and fun little places to eat.
The easiest way to reach it is to take the Funiculaire from Upper Town. It drops you off right on the street. And at $1.75 CAN, it is totally worth it- just for the view.
And the Chateau Frontenac seems even more majestic from the lower town vantage point.
If you round the corner and head for the rue Saint-Paul, you will find a quaint little square that looks like it was plucked right out of a tiny French country village.
And if you are looking for a quick little nosh, don't miss the Bistrot Le Pape George. Grab a table outside this cute wine bar and enjoy some local cheese and a glass of wine.
The Quartier Petit-Champlain is a great place to get lost and soak up some French-Canadian flavor for the day.
The Château Frontenac is the focal point in Old Quebec City. It can be seen from anywhere in the upper or lower town. Its perfect location offers a spectacular view of the St. Lawrence river.
It was named after the Governor of the colony of New France, the count of Frontenac.
It also just happens to be a luxury hotel, currently managed by the Fairmont Hotels and Resorts. The hotel opened in 1853. It did have a recent sprucing up for the Quebec's 400th year celebration.
I just love the stunning architecture of the building, the copper turrets, red brick and interesting heights of all the tiny roofs. You just can't appreciate how grand it really is!!
This is a shot under the passageway, which just screams Euorpe to me. Inside you find the grand entrance, lined with a row of about eight flying flags. And there is a pristinely dressed doorman the help with your ever need.
If I could afford to stay here, I would in a heartbeat. The rooms are to die for and I can just imagine the view from a room on an upper floor. The hotel boasts four restaurants, an indoor pool and a health club.
But, I am a budget traveler, so I stayed nearby, about a block up the road. And the good news, I was able to appreciate its beauty and European details from anywhere in Old Quebec City, for free.
If interested, you could most likely find packages or specials available for rooms with no view (what would be the point) for about $160 a night off season. Rooms with views can go upward of $500.
