Visiting Ostuni was one of the highlights of my Puglia trip. I was charmed immediately by this medieval walled city, especially the città vecchia, old town, with its tiny jumble of alleyways.
Many entice you with a small slice of blue sky or water, barely visible. When you follow them, ending at white rock walls, they reveal beautiful panoramas of the landscape below; on a clear day you can see to the Adriatic.
It reminded me a little of Greece, with its cactus plants and profusions of brightly colored blooms that pop against the stark background of whitewashed buildings. There is no surprise why it’s known as La Città Bianca, the white city.
Everywhere I turned, I spotted small potted plants, (even olive trees!) tucked into nooks, sitting on top of steps, or placed to the side of entrances of homes, restaurants or shops.
VISITING OSTUNI : WHAT TO DO AND SEE
Palazzo Municipale. This grand palace was originally a Franciscan convent; it was redesigned and repurposed into what is now the grand town hall. The space in front is a large piazza, lined with a few cafes.
Column of Sant’Oranzo. An intricately decorated column built in the baroque style. This saint, who is very important locally, graces the top. He also makes an appearance at the piazza named for him in Lecce.
Known as the Ostuni Cathedral, Santa Maria Assunta church was built in the 1400’s and has a very unique exterior shape, adorned with a stunning rose window; and a Baroque interior. If you love churches, there are at least five others you could wander into during a visit.
Just behind the Cathedral is the famous Arco Scoppa, an 18th century loggia and walkway which connects two palaces on either side of the piazza.
Honestly, the best way to see Ostuni is to just wander the streets, soaking up all the beautiful scenery. One of the most memorable things I happened upon, along the main shopping street, was a tiny artisan workshop where an adorable elderly man was toiling away, crafting handmade kitchen utensils out of olive wood.
WHERE TO EAT IN OSTUNI
Borgo Antico – Via T. Trinchera, 26. Right near the Cathedral on the piazza, pop in, stand at the bar and down a quick espresso, steps away from the famous Arco Scoppa. They also have gelato, so indulge!
Cremeria La Scala – Via Capitano Vito Tamborrino,17. Serving up housemade gelato, the tasting set allows you to try several flavors to find your favorite. You can’t go wrong with the Sant’Oronzo – their specialty.
Osteria del Tempo Perso – Via Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale, 47. My number one pick for a special meal. If delicious slow food, in a cozy, dimly lit cave is your idea of a romantic, unique experience, then book now. Prices are on the high end, but the quality is outstanding.
Osteria Piazzetta Cattedrale – Via T. Trinchera 7. Another solid choice, offering a more modern take on traditional Puglian dishes. It’s quite small, so reservations are recommended, especially for outdoor tables.
Forno 31 – Via G. Ferrari,6. An historic bakery making pastries, pizza and sweet treats. Grab a slice of focaccia for the road!
Sapori D’eccellenza – Via Giovanni Antonio Peterolo, 2. Perfect for a quick bite, while strolling around. They make excellent sandwiches; try the octopus and cheese – is real standout.
Riccardo Caffè – Via Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale, 61. Head here in the evening, where colorful bean bag style chairs and tables spill out along the steps. You’ll enjoy tasty cocktails with a very cool vibe in the old town.
FOOD SHOPPING IN OSTUNI
Typicus, via Cattedrale 11. An amazing selection of local products like pasta, olive oil, and other gourmet goodies. Don’t blame me if you need to buy another suitcase just to get all of your tasty souvenirs home!
Pepp La Cucchiara, via Bixio Continelli,2. Though Giuseppe speaks no English, he will welcome you to his workshop with a smile and a story. This is the place to pick up a lovingly created olive wood cooking utensil – a perfect gift for any home chef.
Though certainly not the best market in Italy, the weekly market in Ostuni is held on Saturday mornings along the Via Nino Sansone on the southwest edge of town; about a 15 minute walk from the town hall. Skip all the cheap clothing stalls and head right for the local produce.
BEYOND OSTUNI
Ostuni is actually very well located for visiting places like Alberbello, Polignano a Mare, Locorotondo, Martina Franca and even Bari, which makes it a perfect base to explore the region. There are plenty of options for staying in town or in a masseria, just outside.
If you use Ostuni as a base, these experiences are within easy reach:
- an historic olive mill tour where you can learn about making, tasting and buying oil.
- local wineries, where you could organize a visit, tour and tasting.
- cooking classes featuring typical cuisine of Puglia.
- visiting a beekeeper with amazing local flavored honey.
