If there’s one thing I’d recommend in the Emilia-Romagna region, it’s a visit to Dozza – a street art village in Italy. You’ll need a car, but it’s only a short drive from Bologna, making it the perfect day trip.
Dozza is a small, walled hill town famous for its street art and commissioned murals. Every other year, the town invites artists to come and paint original murals on facades of walls, residences and buildings. It’s the best example of a living museum and one of the largest ever-changing collections of street art contained in a very compact, charming village. The best time to visit would be a weekday, as weekends are a bit more crowded.
After you’ve spend a few hours strolling the cobbled streets, snapping photos of all the beautiful murals, don’t be in a rush to leave. Below I share some other activities to fill your time in this must visit village – especially if you love food and wine.
OTHER THINGS TO DO IN DOZZA
Tour Sforza Castle
The enormous castle with many names looms large over the town. Known as Dozza Castle, the Rocca or the Fortezza, this 500 year old castle with a complex history is worth your time. Crossing the drawbridge into the entrance feels like living in medieval times and once inside, every window of the conical shaped towers offers breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside or rooftops in town.
The architecture is stunning; the loggias, a courtyard, frescoes and walls with perfectly aged patina are indeed impressive. The castle now serves as a museum, often hosting exhibitions, but even a short stroll around enables you to appreciate its charm and unique details. Entry fee is €5 and there are many explanations of historical references in English. Don’t miss the bookshop.
Visit the Enoteca Regionale Emilia Romagna
Wine lovers will be delighted to know the region’s wine cooperative is housed on the basement level of the castle. Call or email ahead to schedule a tasting of some of the finest wines of the area. The manager curates and works with some of the best producers in the region and you’ll find an astonishing collection of bottles in the labyrinth cave below the castle.
Not interested in a tasting? A leisurely pop in to browse and shop the selection is still suggested. Staff are extremely knowledgable and they ship to the U.S.. Hours can be limited, especially in the off-season; check their website for open/closing times.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN DOZZA
La Corte di Caterina is steps away from the castle and of the two restaurants mentioned, offers spectacular views, both inside and from their terrace. Lunch and dinner offered.
La Scuderia right on Piazza Rocca is a solid choice for those wanting traditional dishes of the region. A wide array of classic pastas – think tortellini, tagliatelle and bigoli are done very well. You can’t go wrong with a classic Bolognese ragù. Expect a very meat centric menu, including the excellent salumi. Inside, a horse-stable theme runs throughout; the atmosphere a bit stodgy with pressed white tablecloths and proper service. I preferred a table outside; a bit less fussy, with a one-of-a-kind view on the Rocca. Try the Squacquerone cheese – a creamy treat to top off a rich, filling meal. Truly amazing value. Serves lunch and dinner.
La Bottega is a hidden gem; a newcomer on the scene, compared to the others. This wine bar offers creative takes on classics and weaves in seasonal produce with great local wines. Grab a seat at the bar or a hightop table, if you want to nibble and order from their impressive wine by the glass selection. Choose the dining room if staying for dinner. Seafood and vegetarian options are plentiful and the menu changes often, which entices locals to return. It was my favorite experience of the three.
For breakfast, a shot of espresso or a mid-day snack right in town, hit up Caffé Bianco on the main drag. The baked goods are sinfully delicious.
A visit to Dozza isn’t complete without gelato. Just outside the walls, Tartarughe is your best bet. Available parking is an added bonus, as is the ability to knock back a quick espresso to fuel the drive back.
A VISIT TO DOZZA : WHERE TO STAY
Want to make a visit to Dozza a bit longer? Perhaps as an overnight stop on your way to other locations in Emilia-Romagna or Tuscany? Or add on some tasting at nearby wineries – (Umberto Cesare is a solid choice)?
I suggest you stay in a small agriturismo, near town. Leave the car parked and stroll the short distance to the village. This gives you the opportunity to sample a few of the great restaurants. You can check Airbnb, Agriturismo.com or Wwoof for solid options. The one we chose, was the perfect location and did not disappoint.
It was a real working farm, a slice of authentic heaven. Fruit trees, blooming flowers and grapevines on the property were plentiful. Chickens and dogs roamed the grounds and the views were divine. The quiet of the countryside was so peaceful, a lovely respite after our visit to bustling Bologna and Modena.
A hearty breakfast of local products, many from the farm, was served at an outdoor table under a wisteria-blanketed pergola, overlooking the vine-covered hills. The bees and birds provided the only detectable sounds and one of the dogs decided to lay at our feet, no doubt waiting for scraps. Idyllic to be sure.
Our room was simple, but well-appointed; we were welcomed with a bowl of just-picked cherries on our nightstand. Slow travel at its finest. A quick scramble up the hill connected us to a walking path that led right to Dozza. No need to bring the car to visit the town.
Considering a visit to Dozza? Get in touch, I’d love to help with your plans.
