During my last research trip to Lyon, I made a stop over in Paris. I chose to explore an area I hadn’t visited for about ten years. I wanted to discover where to eat in Paris’ Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood so I could have some new places to add to my foodie adventures itineraries or to make recommendations for my trip coaching clients.
The area didn’t disappoint! It’s thriving and brimming with new discoveries. And some of my old favorites are still going strong. I made the most of my few days there and have great recommendations for where to eat in Paris’ Canal-Saint-Martin neighborhood.
WHERE TO EAT IN PARIS’ CANAL-SAINT MARTIN NEIGHBORHOOD
Holybelly 5 Rue Lucien Sampaix is the place for an amazing breakfast in the neighborhood with an Aussie twist. It’s so popular now, you’ll find queues. My advice – get there early to avoid long lines. Also, they do a mean flat white.
Du Pain e des Idées 34 Rue Yves Toudic is likely the best and most certainly one of the prettiest traditional bakeries in Paris. A cult classic for their amazing artisanal pastries and breads. Located in an historic building, the inside is stunning example of an old-fashioned boulangerie with ornate painted ceilings. Their pistache chocolate escargot pastry is a favorite but their chausson aux pommes is a special treat – with an entire apple inside. A healthy choice because of the fruit, right? Or grab a wood-fired loaf of nutty pain des amis or a mini-pavés. Closed weekends.
Sain Boulangerie 15, rue Marie et Louise is the newest addition to the area. An outstanding artisan bakery opened by a Michelin stared chef – he aims to craft healthier natural long-fermented breads. The croissants here are to die for, but anything here is of amazing quality. Don’t miss the selection of glaces and sorbets.
La Marine 55Bis Quai de Valmy. Steps from the canal, this friendly neighborhood bistro serves up quintessential favorites. Escargot, fresh oysters, and a decadent tarte tatin served with an unctuous dollop of creme fraiche. The old curved zinc bar and eye-popping globe-light chandelier are striking. Another bonus – it’s open daily and the outdoor terrace is heated in winter.
Le Verre Volé. 67 rue de Lancry. I first visited this OG of natural wine bars in Paris over ten years ago. It’s still amazing. Serving and selling a terrific selection of natural wines and simple, local fare. Occasional chilly service – but don’t let that deter you. Tough to score a table, so I recommend reserving. Open daily with a seasonal menu.
Le Citizen Wine Bar Located on the bottom floor of the eponymous hotel, this gem functions as a cafe and breakfast spot during the day, a wine bar in the evening, and serves snacks and sweets all day. Friendly service, and a very talented chef serving locally sourced produce. The burrata was a standout. Aim for a two-top table next to their floor to ceiling windows to people watch canal-side.
Early June 19 Rue Jean Poulmarch. Another natural wine bar steps from Le Verre Volé – this one serving up Spanish small plates in a small rustic dining room with whitewashed walls, wooden tables, old french school chairs and an open kitchen. Reasonably priced wines (both by the glass and bottle) and knowledgable staff to help you decide. They also feature rotating guest chefs.
Le Comptoir General 84 Quai de Jemmapes. Hidden behind a wall along the banks of the canal is one of the coolest bars in the area. A boho mash-mash of vintage and antique furnishings and plants – it’s part cafe, part bar, part restaurant, part nightclub – even a small thrift shop. Come for the great selection of beer and creative cocktails along with tasty sharing plates. It can get super crowded on weekend evenings, so stick to a quieter time if you want good service or go for the weekend brunch.
Don Antónia Pastelaria 8 Rue de la Grange aux Belles serves up a little taste of Portugal in a charming setting. Tiny postage stamp-sized place with window counter tops both inside and street-side and sweet lace curtains. Sample the perfectly creamy pastel de nata, fish courgettes and first rate coffee. Very friendly service is a bonus.
Ten Belles named for its address (10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles) is a tiny hipster joint with amazing coffee and homemade sweets, but it’s so popular they sell out fast. You may not get the chance to dine in – you’ll have to fight the work-from-cafe types with their laptops, beanies and headphones.
Kann Coffee 28 Rue des Vinaigriers is the result of a design house opening a coffee shop in a beautiful, clean minimalist space that has both indoor and outdoor seating. They serve local coffee from Coutume, golden and matcha lattes and have alternative milk options too. The lunch menu offers mostly vegetarian cuisine. They also do brunch.
Ima Cantine 39 Quai de Valmy is the place to go for healthy, creative delicious vegetarian and vegan fare made with fresh seasonal produce. Open for breakfast, brunch, lunch, tapas and snacks. Favorites are the shakshuka, granola, veggie bowls, salads and a rotating hot plat du jour. Tasty baked goods with gluten free options abound. Few tables, so you may want to order take-away and picnic on the banks of the canal.
Breizh Cafe 112 Quai de Jemmapes is the place to go for amazing authentic buckwheat crepes from Brittany – both savory galette and sweet dessert. I recommend pairing them with a bowl of cider. It’s a bit larger than the original Marais location, but it’s a popular spot with views of the canal- so reserve in advance.
I hope this helps you discover where to eat in Paris’ Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood.
Traveling to Paris? You might be interested in these experiences I can arrange
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food market tour or DIY foodie adventure in any Paris neighborhood
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french cheese tour and tasting
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wine tasting
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cooking class
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day tour to Champagne for tours and tastings
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