Pienza is one of the most beautiful villages in Tuscany. It also has terrific food and wine, so naturally I visited to scope out the best places for my foodie adventure itineraries . Most travelers focus on the most popular things to do, which I’ll cover briefly; but in my food lover’s guide to Pienza, I’ll be highlighting where to eat and drink and where to sample and buy the famous pecorino cheese.
But first some background on Pienza
Pienza is located in the beautiful Val d’Orcia area of Tuscany – the southern portion of the region. The small town itself is adorable, has amazing architecture, pretty little lanes, colorful flowers; photo ops abound around every corner. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage site and the former home of Pope Pius II. You’ll see many references to him in the names of buildings, museums, squares, cafes and other places around town.
The most notable, popular culture and historic sights in Pienza are:
- Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta
- Piazza Pio II (a lovely square)
- Museo Diocesano
- Palazzo Piccolomini – a stunning palace, with a beautiful courtyard and landscaped gardens. Guided tours are available..
Travelers also come to Pienza for the extraordinary views of the valley. I highly recommend you head outside the walls and stroll along the romantic streets for stunning panoramic views of the Val d’Orcia, especially along via Santa Caterina.
For food lovers visiting Pienza, the real star of the show is the famous pecorino cheese
Pecorino cheese (known locally as il calcio) is a raw cheese made from sheeps milk and has a PDO – protected origin status. There are many different types, both aged and fresh. Different stages of aging, covered in ash, or wrapped in fig or walnut leaves, infused with truffle – each one imparting a unique flavor to the cheese. The combinations are endless really.
You’ll find lots of wine bars, wineries that serve food, and restaurants serving pecorino paired with wine, jams and other products. There are plenty of opportunities to taste or even purchase some. Many shops will vacuum seal pecorino cheese for travel. Follow your nose, the unique aroma will lead you to these shops producing cheese of the highest quality.
Food lover’s guide to Pienza : Where to buy pecorino cheese and other gourmet food products
Marusco e Maria Corso il Rossellino, 21. Since 1974 they’ve been selling many types of pecorino cheese, but also dried pici pasta (a specialty of the region), salumi, beans, jam, honey, olive oil and other local products. Their cheese is aged in the cave on the bottom floor of the shop. Book tastings directly on their website.
Il Cacio di Ernesto Via Enzo Mangiavacchi, 37 is a tiny shop just outside the walls that sells products from their nearby farm. All types of pecorino are offered, but also bread, their own organic olive oil, other cheeses and local wine. This is a great spot to pick up picnic provisions and head to a scenic spot overlooking the valley to enjoy it.
La Bottega del Naturista Corso il Rossellino, 16 is a cheese lover’s paradise! This is the store of cheese maker Caseficio de Mario, which is another small family dairy nearby. Lots of pecorino and goat cheese on offer. Fresh and classic cheese seasoned with hay, honey, pignoli, basil, chili, or aged in ash and more; dried pasta, porcini and truffles, wine and craft beer too. Tastings offered.
Food lover’s guide to Pienza : Where to eat (and drink)
La Taverna di Re Artù La Via della Rosa, 4 is a postage-stamp-sized wine bar with friendly owners serving up local wine, Italian craft beers, and crostini in a charming rustic indoor setting or at outdoor tables for people watching.
Idyllum via Gozzante, 67. A hipster bar opened by a few local guys. Spendy, but it’s THE spot to have a classic Negroni or Campari, sit outside and enjoy the gorgeous views. Don’t discount the interior either – it’s located in a historic building.
Piccolomini Caffe Corso il Rossellino, 87. There are far better places for a proper sit down meal, and service can be chilly, but it’s a perfect spot for an early morning croissant and cappuccino on the shady terrace in back.
Bar Il Casello Via del Casello, 3 is another spot for a great cappuccino or espresso, with far friendlier service and stunning panoramic countryside views. Also a perfect spot for aperitivo with drinks and snacks. Go at sunset for a real treat.
Buon Gusto Gelateria Via Case Nuove, 26. No food lover’s visit to Pienza would be complete without a gelato stop and this is the best spot in town. Nicola is friendly, passionate and creates unique flavor combos from local ingredients. Craving a healthy alternative? Grab a smoothie.
La Bandita Townhouse Corso il Rossellino, 111. Dine in the garden of this former convent turned luxury hotel, which has an excellent restaurant. Carnivores should try the burgers or tartare made from locally sourced Chianina beef.
Trattoria Latte di Luna Via S. Carlo, 2/4 offers a homey atmosphere and charming setting both inside and on the romantic shaded terrace. This family-owned trattoria serves up homemade local Italian favorites. Everything is scrumptious. Order anything on the menu with truffles (when in season) – shavings are generous!
Trattoria Fiorella Via Condotti, 11. Another gem with excellent homemade pasta, tucked away from the main drag. If you’re craving a traditional Bistecca Fiorentina, cooked to perfection – this is where to get it. Prices are more than reasonable for the quality of food. Don’t miss the cheese plate which offers several types of local pecorino or their pannacotta which is other-worldly.
Sette di Vino Piazza di Spagna, 1 – a homey osteria serving up simple, authentic Tuscan dishes in a charming outdoor space with very friendly service. If classic ribollita, grilled pecorino, sliced lardo, bruschetta, panzanella salad and delicious wine makes you drool, you’ll be happy. No pasta on the menu here though.
Nanetti e Bernardini Corso il Rossellino, 81. If you’re on the go and need something quick, tasty and full of juicy porky goodness, look no further than a porchetta panini at this shop.
Where to shop for other artisanal products in Pienza
I know this is a food lover’s guide to Pienza, but I would be remiss if I didn’t mention a few very special places to shop for non-food items. Visit these spots if you want something handmade, a small gift or a treasured one-of-a-kind hand-crafted souvenir.
Ceramiche Bai Linda Via Gozzante, 33 is a beautiful ceramics workshop offering both modern and traditional pieces and very fair prices. Linda is as welcoming and friendly, as she is talented. The shop is set in a historic building with an Etruscan cave – with tunnels and a wheel mill – making it a very unique shopping experience. She also ships overseas.
Bottega Artiginale del Cuoio Via S. Andrea, 16/44 is a workshop dedicated to leather goods. The craftsmen’s table in set right out in the open, so you can see him work. He crafts leather keychains, wallets, bracelets, belts and handbags in a rainbow of colors. All are hand made and top quality. He was a joy to chat with and he welcomes custom orders.
Made in Tuscany Via Guglielmo Marconi, 11 offers a wide selection of local products and hand made items from Tuscany. You’ll find a nice selection of linens, textiles, scarves, perfume, candles, pottery and gift items.
Where to go beyond Pienza
You can visit Pienza for a day; but if you have a car, it also makes a great base for exploring nearby towns in Tuscany like Montalcino, Montepulciano, Siena, Montechiello and Montefollonico. A short distance away are the often photographed Chapel of the Madonna di Vitaleta, San Biagio and Bagno Vignoni hot springs. And plenty of wineries scattered about for wine tastings.
If you enjoyed this food lover’s guide to Pienza, you might enjoy these activities I can arrange nearby:
- a raw milk cheese making class or cheese and wine pairing
- a full day private wine tour with tastings and lunch at a winery
- booking wine tasting appointments
- private cooking class in a 17th century home
- lunch in a ancient stone wine cellar
- a truffle hunting excursion
