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Travel Tip Tuesday : Paris Guestlist iPhone App

This Travel Tip Tuesday, I have something fresh, new and exciting for those who want to party like a rock star in Paris.  It’s the essential tool for fashionable European jet-setters.  This past July, a new iPhone app, called Paris Guestlist was released, and it’s available for use on all iPhones, iPads and iPods.

Satellite Google Maps tell you where the parties are at the most exclusive nightclubs, discotheques, lounges, art-galleries, and other venues in the city. The app provides a full description of every event and even gives you the chance to book your place on the ‘guest list’ directly from your iPhone. You can also share via Facebook so all your friends can see the parties you’ll be attending!

Fashionistas will love the listings of fashion shows and sample sales.
Since the app is pretty new, only a small smattering of what’s on offer in the City of Light is currently available, but keep checking back as they are working feverishly to keep up on and enter cool and exciting events.

There are actually two versions of the app.  If you are interested, you can download the “Lite” app for free or pay only $4.99 for the full version. A steal in my opinion. You can get more info about Paris Guestlist on their website or in the iTunes store.

Happy Partying!

It’s always a party at My Bella Vita.  Check out Cherrye’s travel tips today!

Best Places to Find Etruscan Ruins in Italy

We visit Italy—especially Tuscany—for the delicious food and wine, and the splendid historical art and architecture from the Romans and the Renaissance.  The Italian countryside holds many treasures as well: ancient ruins from the mysterious Etruscans, the rulers of Italy before the Romans.  Some of these well-preserved city walls and burial tombs date back to the 7^thcentury B.C.  Step back in time and see the jewelry, bronzes, and other artifacts from this still-undiscovered civilization at archaeological museums throughout Tuscany.

For some of the best places to find Etruscan ruins, visit these villages.

Orvieto

Warrior Head at Orvieto's Crocifisso del Tufo

Orvieto was settled in the 8^th or 9^th century B.C.  Because of its wealth from the bronzes and ceramics, it became the Etruscan center known as Velzna in the 6^th century B.C.  Orvieto is filled with about 1200 caves containing passages, quarries, and wells.  You can explore these with one of the Orvieto Underground guided tours available from the Piazza Duomo, 24.  For 5.50 euro and about an hour of your day, you will see two well shafts both 130 feet deep, painted walls, remains of the cement quarry, and how the Etruscans pressed olives with an ancient olive press.

You should also take a walk to the Strada della Stazione to visit the necropolis Crocifisso del Tufo. In the modern town, across from the popular Duomo, an old palazzo has been transformed into a museum for Etruscan artifacts. The Museo Claudio Faina e Museo Civico houses these ancient coins, vases, and bronzes.

Admission is 4.50 euro.  From April to September, the museum is open daily from 9:30 AM to 6:00 PM.  From October to March, the museum is open from Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM.

Cerveteri

Cerveteri is only a short day trip from Rome and a great place to explore Etruscan ruins.  The main necropolis in Cerveteri, Necropolis of Banditaccia, was built between the 9^th and 3^rdcenturies B.C. but these tombs are still not fully excavated.  Archaeologists compare the way the Etruscans designed their tombs to the way an architect plans a city.  This archaeological site is so vast (it spans about six miles) and impressive that it has been added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

Some of the tombs that you should view are the Tomba dei Rilievi.  Built in the 4^th century B.C., this tomb has numerous stuccoes on the walls depicting events, animals, and objects that were used in everyday life.  In the Tomba dei Scudi e delle Sedie, you will find beds with pillows that have been carved from the tufa rock, which were for the men and women buried there.  In the main piazza of Cerveteri, an old castle has been transformed into an Etruscan ruins museum: Museo Nazionale Cerite.  Definitely check it out, especially since admission is free!  The museum is closed on Mondays.

Vetulonia

Entrance to Etruscan Tomb in Vetulonia

During the time of the Etruscans, Vetulonia was one of the most important cities in Maremma.  Located in the valley of Bruna, this city was established in the 7^th century B.C.  The necropolis that was discovered in this area exposed iron rods with a double-headed helix in the center as well as other riches.

Cortona

Pitagora Etruscan Tomb in Cortona

The beautiful town of Cortona has been a popular setting for many writers.  It’s easy to see why: Cortona is perched on the hillside overlooking Lake Trasimeno, and it is home to well-preserved Etruscan ruins. In the town, visit the Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca and marvel at the majestic artifacts from thousands of years ago.  This museum displays a gold fibula, a bronze Snout with a hooked beak and sharp tongue, an Etruscan bronze chandelier, and other artifacts and documents.

Venture into the countryside and walk through the excavated tombs of Grotta di Pitagora, del Sodo, and Sergardi.  You can also locate the defensive walls that once guarded Cortona.

Chiusi

Etruscan Tomb in Chiusi

Chiusi was one of the most powerful cities during the Etruscan age.  Therefore, it only makes sense that some of the best Etruscan ruins are in this ancient city.  Chiusi is home to the Museo Nazionale Etrusco on Via Porsenna, one of the best Etruscan collections in the Mediterranean.  It has numerous ceramics, sculptures, terracotta cinerary urns, and vases.  After you visit the museum, go out into the countryside to see the tombs: Tomba della Pellagrina, Tomba della Scimmia (take note of the wall paintings portraying Etruscan social life), and Tomba del Granduca.

Tarquinia

Etruscan Tomb of the Leopards in Monterozzi, Tarquinia

Tarquinia, like Cerveteri, has numerous impressive tombs left behind by the Etruscans as well as a museum with an extensive collection of artifacts.  The Museo Nazionale Tarquinense is located in the 15^th century Palazzo Vitelleschi.  It contains Etruscan art and objects dating back between the 6^th and 3^rd centuries.  It also houses stone sarcophagi, Corinthian and Attic ceramics, coins and jewelry, bronze mirrors with Etruscan etchings, and the Two-Winged Horses.

About twenty minutes away from the museum is the Monterozzi Necropolis, spanning six kilometers.  Despite the large amount of tombs, only a fifteen are open for viewing (sometimes only one at a time).  These tombs are notable for their painted walls that reveal aspects of life, death, and religious beliefs.  Some of the popular painted tombs are the Tomba dei Giocolieri and the Tomba dei Tori.  If you’re going during the summer months, you might want to take a taxi to these tombs because the sun can become extremely hot and uncomfortable.

Sovana

Etruscan Necropolis Tomba del Sirena, Sovana Italy

In the Fiora River Valley is the quiet little village of Sovana.  You will find the traditional Etruscan tombs: Tomba del Sileno, Tomba del Sirena, Tomba Pisa, and Tomba Pola.  But you will also discover one of the most incredible mausoleums at the Tomb of Ildebranda, which is at the foot of the village.  This tomb is part of the Citta del Tufo Archaeological Park.  (If you want to visit another archaeological park, take a half hour drive south to the Vulci Archaeological Park.)

However, the most extraordinary part of Sovana is the “sunken roads” nearby.  These roads, or via cave, were carved through the volcanic rock, making forty-foot walls, which are now covered in moss.  It is a truly magical experience to wander through these roads while contemplating how these mysterious Etruscans contrived these architectural masterpieces.

What is your favorite place to go to find Etruscan ruins?  Museums or tombs? What are your favorite types of ruins?

Written by : Laura Photo Credits : Nixdorf / Almare / GDelhey / Xavier de Jaureguiberry / PhillipC / AlMare / SidVics

Susan Van Allen, Venetian Wine Bars and Book Giveaway

By now it’s no secret that author Susan Van Allen’s ’100 Places in Italy Every Woman Should Go’ is resonating with female travelers and Italophiles all over the globe.  I’ll admit that I couldn’t wait to get my hands on a copy.  I was convinced that I would love it.  I mean c’mon, Italy and Travel – what’s not for me to love?

Susan has graciously offered up an excerpt from the book on one of my favorite topics.  Wine and wine bars in Venice, Italy.  And stay tuned, because after Susan talks about wine and Venice, we are going to offer up not just her book for a giveaway – but a total of four books about Italy travel.  More details about the giveaway after Susan’s words on Venetian wine bars.

Here’s Susan:

In the place that does everything differently, here in Venice wine bars are called bacari, the snacks (including fab seafood) are called cichetti, and a drink of wine is called an ombra, which means shade.

That’s because back in the old days, wine sellers in San Marco would move their carts to the shadow of the Campanile to keep their wine cool, and workers would take a wine and panini break there. In warmer months, you’ll want a spritz—sparkling water and Aperol or Campari.

Here are a few favorites:

• Cantinone Già Schiavi, Ponte San Trovaso

On a quiet canal in the Dorsoduro sestiere, near a gondola workshop, this classic family-run spot is where old-time regulars go elbow-to-elbow with foreigners. I had my first baccala mantecato (whipped baccala on toast) here and they’ve hooked me ever since.

• Bancogiro, Campo San Giacometto di Rialto 122, open 11-9, closed Sunday night and all day Monday

On the east side of the Rialto Bridge, this converted medieval bank is a comparative newcomer on the bacari scene. You can sit at outside tables for a Grand Canal view and enjoy innovative cichetti, like carpaccio di branzino (raw sea bass).

• Cantina Do Mori, Calle dei Do Mori 429 (San Polo), closed Sunday

One of the oldest in Venice, here you perch on a wine barrel with copper pots hanging over you, and have a selection of 600 wines to choose from, along with fabulous cichetti such as braised baby artichokes with lemon.

TIP: Lessons of the Vine is a new offering of wine tasting classes in Venice which are absolutely entertaining as well as informative, and well-priced. The wines and complementary antipasti presented change with the seasons and are adapted to the tastes of the travelers. This is a wonderful first stop for visitors, an enjoyable evening to orient them so they can thoroughly enjoy the bacari of Venice, and wines throughout their Italian vacation.

***

Now for the details on the awesome giveaway.  Susan’s publisher, Travelers’ Tales, has decided to offer up four great books for a giveaway. 100 Places in Italy Every Woman Should Go, Travelers’ Tales Italy : True Stories of Life on the Road, Travelers’ Tales Tuscany : True Stories and 30 Days in Italy : True Stories of Escape to the Good Life.

Just to make it interesting – and give you more chances to win, I’ve decided to have a little fun with this contest, which will run until midnight EST on August 27th, 2010.  Here is how you can win:

• Leave a comment on this post for a chance to win Susan’s book, 100 Places in Italy Every Woman Should Visit.  On August 28th, I’ll pick one winner using a random number generator.
• Become a Facebook fan (or LIKE my fan page)  to win a copy of either of the Travelers’ Tales titles – Tuscany True Stories or True Stories of Life on the Road.  On August 28th, I’ll select two Facebook fans using the random number generator and each will receive one of the books, not both. Already a Facebook fan?  Congrats! You’re already entered!
• Use this link to subscribe to my free monthly newsletter to win a copy of 30 Days in Italy : True Stories of Escape to the Good Life.  On August 28th, using the random number generator, I’ll select one winner from my newsletter subscriber list.  Already a newsletter subscriber? Bonus, you’re already entered!

All four winners will be announced on the My Mélange Facebook fan page.

Thanks so much to Susan Van Allen and  Travelers’ Tales for the great Italy content and awesome giveaway! Good Luck!

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It not only happens that Susan recommends Lessons of the Vine, but I partner with them as well. For more information on this special Venice wine tasting or to book, feel free to contact me.

Full disclosure : Travelers’ Tales provided me with a free review copy of each of the titles involved in the giveaway.

Lunch at Otto in NYC

About six weeks ago, I attended a two-day travel blogging conference in New York City, called TBEX.  Far be it from me to not scout out the area’s good eats before I go. I was over the moon the find out that Mario Batali’s Otto, was located only about a block away from the venue.  I excitedly put it on ‘the list’.

Incidentally, Otto {pronounced oh-toh} is the Italian word for the number ‘eight‘.  And Otto happens to be located on 8th Street, in New York City. Clever.  The menu is all in Italian, with English translations, which always scores extra points in my book.

On the first day of the conference, I blew off the free lunch in order to sample Batali’s less expensive, casual, enoteca/pizzeria which as the name suggests serves up pizza, pasta and wine bar food, all at great New York City prices.

Three of us eagerly sat a table. And sat. And sat.  And waited. And waited. Forty minutes later, with our allotted lunch time ticking away, and after several failed attempts to flag down wait staff to take our order, sadly, we departed.  Hungry and disappointed.

Though my excitement had waned, and Otto had certainly done me wrong, I decided to give them another try the following day at lunch.  And I am so glad that I did!

A handful of us dined on individual pizzas and pasta dishes.

The lunch menu offered about a half-dozen pasta choices, all priced at $9.  Pizza options, including classics like Margherita and Pepperoni, as well as more inventive pies, all used fresh Italian ingredients and ranged from $7 – $14.

Another option was the $13 Pizza del giorno – a pizza special that changes daily.  There were also plenty of cheeses and side dishes to choose from if you were more interested in sampling little noshes, rather than chowing down on a full meal.

The moment I saw Pasta Carbonara on the menu, I didn’t have to look any further.  It’s my all time favorite Italian pasta – when it’s done right.

And I’m happy to report that it was.

Lots of ooohhs, mmmms and aaahhhs emanated from the table that afternoon.  The wait staff was pleasant, accommodating and efficient.  We had no problem getting a table, ordering or waiting for food.  And no problem devouring our flavorful dishes either.

The wine list was extensive, but certainly not cheap.  My generous pour of by-the-glass Barbera, which equaled a large glass and a half, was a reasonable $13.

We were assured by many that had dined at Otto before, that our first-visit-debacle must have been an unfortunate fluke.  And based on the results of my second visit, I am inclined to agree.

Though my first visit left me disappointed and almost angry, I am very glad I persevered and decided to give Otto another try.  Had I not, I would have been even more disappointed knowing that I missed enjoying a rich and creamy Carbonara, just steps away from my home-away-from-home for two days.

I never would have forgiven myself or Mario ‘orange-crocs‘ Batali.  But luckily, I don’t have to worry about forgiveness.  In fact, thanks to Otto, the only thing I am consumed with now is hatching a scheme to get back there, and deciding which authentic Italian food and wine combo I’ll choose next time.

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Otto
One Fifth Avenue
New York City, NY 10003
212.995.9559

Travel Tip Tuesday : Paperwallet

A month or so ago, I was contacted by the powers-that-be regarding a new product.  I’m always up for trying out a new product and being able to give my honest opinion, be it good or bad, to my readers.

The product is something called Paperwallet.

Now, I know that may sound a bit odd. A wallet made out of paper?  But I was certainly intrigued.

I promptly received a bright purple Paperwallet in the mail and must tell you, I was quite impressed.

purple paperwallet

I feel it would be a great option for all sorts of travelers.  Let me tell you why:

The pros:

• The paperwallet is thin, lightweight and indestructible.  It’s made from Tyvek, which is paper-thin, yet tear-resistant.
• It comes in a host of colors. New cool designs are coming soon – perfect for travelers with a personality – ahem, like me.
• Its small size would take up minimal space in luggage, daypacks or pockets.  As someone who lives to pack lightly, it’s a great alternative to a regular bulky wallet.  Perfect for carry-on travelers like myself.
• It’s recyclable.  As someone who cares about the environment, I especially appreciate this feature.
• It holds a decent amount.  Really.  It is set up similar to a regular wallet.  A spot for bills, two sides with pockets for credit cards and even two more secure, easy access pockets.  When traveling, normally you only take the basics.  One or two credit cards, ID, medical ID cards, etc.  The paperwallet would hold these comfortably.
• While there is a mention on the website about it being water-resistant, I decided to experiment a bit on my own.  I dropped a bit of water on it, which seemed to bead right up, not soak in and didn’t cause the color to bleed at all.  Yep. Water resistant.
• It’s budget friendly.  Starting at only $9.99 USD.

The cons:

• I would never be able to comfortably and securely stash my entire arsenal of cash, ID, credit cards, medical insurance cards, supermarket and gas cards, and the like, in the paperwallet.  The model I tested claims to hold 12+ credit cards, which I found to be an ambitious stretch for its size and construction.
• No spot for coins.  Men are used to this, but I tend to like a change compartment.  Can’t help it – I’m a girl.

designer paperwallets coming soon!

While I couldn’t personally see myself using this for everyday life, I could definitely see it being used for travel.  And I plan to do just that!

So if you are a green traveler, a budget traveler, someone who likes to travel light or are looking for a great gift idea for any one of the aforementioned travel types, give paperwallet a try.

And here is your opportunity.  Paperwallet has agreed to give my readers a special 10% discount on any style of their wallets!  How cool is that?  Just go shopping and enter the coupon code TRAVEL at checkout.

Happy Shopping!

Full Disclosure :  Paperwallet provided me with a free sample {a $14.99 value} for me to review.

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Don’t forget to check out Cherrye’s Travel Tips today!

Walking in the Shoes of a Parisian

The tree-lined boulevards complete with high-end shops, cafés, restaurants, and hotels, have come to define Paris.  These distinguished wide boulevards are the work of Baron Haussman, Paris’ urban planner during the 19^th century.  He rebuilt the streets of Paris between 1853 and 1870, widening the streets to allow for troops and use of artillery.

The older left bank has its roots in medieval history.  No matter what street you decide to follow, the walk is always scenic and pleasurable.  In fact, one of Parisians’ favorite activities is leisurely strolling down the boulevards, stopping for tea and a macaron, and people watching at a small bistro table outside a café.  Put on your walking shoes, leave your worries behind, and head out into the streets of Paris for a relaxing stroll.  Here are five boulevards you should definitely explore.

Champs-Élysées

This boulevard may be on your ‘to visit’ list already, but I couldn’t talk about boulevards in Paris without mentioning the Champs-Élysées (pronounced shahnz-ay-lee-zay).   The huge sidewalks, numerous shops (including mega-music stores), chic cafés, not to mention the Arc du Triomphe make it Europe’s most spectacular boulevard.  Champs-Élysées extends from the Place de la Concorde to the Place de Charles de Gaulle, which is where you will find the Arc du Triomphe, a memorial to the French Grand Army during Napoleon’s reign.  Go inside the arch, which has now become a small museum.  You can learn more about its history and catch amazing views of the city.

Some of Paris’ most famous cafés are on this boulevard.  Stop into Ladurée  or Le Fouquet for delicious macarons in pastel colors.  The prices are a little steep, but the experience of people watching outside the café with the sun shining makes it worth the price.  Along the Champs-Élysées, you will find the Place de la Concorde historical square, which has hosted momentous events such as the Tour de France finale and New Year’s Eve extravaganzas.   The shopping transforms into a historical section when you reach the Rond-Point traffic circle.  At this square, you can marvel at the Obelisk of Luxor, a gift from the Egyptians in the 1830s.  Nearby, you can also visit the Jardins des Champs-Élysées, the Petit Palais, and the Grand Palais, which hosted the World Fair in 1900.

Boulevard Saint-Germain

On the left bank of Paris, you will come across the popular boulevard Saint-Germain.  Faubourg Saint-Germain is the suburb that developed around the medieval Saint-Germain-des-Prés church.  It was one of the wealthiest suburbs and the cultural center of Paris, but that changed when a new bourgeoisie came about, shifting the center from Boulevard Saint-Germain to Champs-Élysées.  The area also served as a workplace for many influential artists and writers including Oscar Wilde, Orson Wells, and Jim Morrison.

Boulevard Saint-Germain is also associated with the intellectuals and thinkers since many of its cafés were meeting places for existentialists.  If you want to take yourself back in time to the days of these intellectuals, writers, and artists, order a café au lait at Café de Flore or Les Deux Magots, and soak in the atmosphere around you.  This street is a part of the university district (the Institut d’études politiques, one of the best political science schools in Europe, is located in the Saint-Germain neighborhood), which could be responsible for the lively nightlife, artsy and bohemian style, and nonstop energy.

Aside from the cafés, the boulevard is now home to high-end designer boutiques like Armani, Vuitton, Dior, Ralph Lauren Fragonard and Rykiel which makes it an excellent place to window shop.

Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré

If you live for fashion, your paradise is on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the center of haute-couture culture.  Almost every major fashion house—Dior, Hermés, Chanel, Givenchy, Yves Saint Lauren, to name a few—is located on this street.  Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré is narrow and nondescript in comparison to the Champs-Élysées, but is still the top fashion street in the world.

This street isn’t just for fashionistas.  The eighteenth century Palais de l’Elysee (residence of the President of the French Republic) is also located on this street.  Further down, between Place Saint-Phillipe du Roule and Avenue de Marigny, there are several art galleries housing contemporary art and beautifully crafted and designed French furniture.

Rue des Rosiers

The rue des Rosiers is the main thoroughfare in Paris’ historic Jewish quarter (in the Marais district).  As you walk down the streets, you will feel the history of this thirteenth century Jewish community with the Hebrew facades, synagogues, and shtiebels or oratoire (small prayer rooms).

Foodies rejoice!  Rue des Rosiers is known for its delicious Middle Eastern and Eastern European specialties, as well as some of the best restaurants in the area.  You must visit L’as du Fallafel, which claims (rightfully) to have the world’s best falafel.  This sandwich comes with grilled eggplant, cabbage, tahini, hummus, and hot sauce.  The shawarma, which is a grilled, skewered meat sandwich, is also a good choice.  Wash it down with a big glass of fresh lemonade. After you eat, continue exploring the bookshops, boulangeries, and trendy boutiques.  A new vintage shop sprung up on rue des Rosiers recently; Coiffeur offers great deals on unique vintage clothes, shoes, and accessories.  So many Parisians love this store that it gets a new stock of merchandise once or twice a week to keep up with the demanding fashion-addicts!

Rue Mouffetard

Rue Mouffetard is one of the oldest streets in Paris (and maybe all of France).  It was once a Roman road that went from Lyon to Rome.  Now, it is a lively street with a lot to see!  At the northern end of the street is the Place de la Contrescarpe, a great people-watching location at night.  At the south end of the street is the final resting place of Francois de Paris – the St. Médard church.  During the beginning of the eighteenth century, this church was a meeting place for him and his cult of followers.  They believed that miracles would be achieved through purification and suffering.  After five years, the police shut down the church because of these untraditional beliefs.

Rue Mouffetard’s most popular attraction is the daily market (except for Mondays) that spans across the lower half of the street.  Historians have dated this market back to the thirteenth century!  Here, you can find fruits and vegetables, cheeses, meats, and other delicacies.  The market is busiest on Sundays between 10 am and noon, so make sure you get there early for the best deals.  In the evening, this market shuts down and the restaurants open their doors for hungry guests.  Most of these restaurants serve different types of ethnic food as well as the traditional French cuisine.

Three times a week, the Place Monge Market is held.  This market offers more than just food.  You can browse through clothes, shoes, and accessories too.  If you want to venture out of La Mouff, Rue Mouffetard is just minutes from the famous Pantheon and Jardin Luxembourg.

What is your favorite street in Paris?  What’s your favorite thing to do when strolling down the Parisian boulevards?

Written by : Laura Photo Credits : Joe Marinaro / JR_Paris / David Monniaux / innacoz / andrijbulba

Travel Photo Friday : Lovely Orvieto

Well, I can’t believe that it’s the first Friday in August already. And you know what that means! Time to feature another reader’s travel photo.

Todays photo is from Vicki Floyd, who is a fellow Italophile. She has offered up a lovely photo of Orvieto Italy. I place I have yet to visit. And just in case you are wondering, Orvieto is also the name of a white wine. Any town named after a wine – is totally worth a visit in my book!

Thanks again Vicki!

And if you would like to have your photo featured here, just email your photo, along with a short description, to mymelange {at} yahoo.com.

See you next month on September 3rd for our next edition!

Five Wine Bars in Rome

Rome is known for its vivid nightlife; however, the club-scene is not for everyone.  If you want to enjoy a quieter but still entertaining evening, head to one of Rome’s many wine bars.  Over the past few years, wine bars, or enotecas {enoteche if you want to be a stickler on the Italian language}, have been becoming more popular.  These enotecas are wine shops in which the owners allow the guests to taste the wines in hopes that they will purchase them at the end of their meal.  This fashionable new restaurant genre is for all age groups, and makes a great place to get a full meal, a snack and to try a fabulous selection of wine by the glass.

Though I have reviewed Cul de Sac as one of my favorites, here are five other wine bars in Rome to add to your list!

1.  Trimani Wine Bar

This enoteca is the oldest wine shop in Rome, opening in 1876 on Via Goito and supplying wines, champagnes, liqueurs, and snacks.  It was not until the early 1990s when the wine shop expanded and joined Trimani Wine Bar.  From 5 pm to 7 pm, Monday through Saturday, stop in for Happy Hour and get two glasses of wine for the price of one!  (Prices range from 2 to 9 euro a glass).

Trimani Wine Bar also has a delicious bistro-style dinner menu, and the prices are reasonable.  If you can’t seem to choose a wine, just ask one of the staff, who are always knowledgeable and willing to help.  Reservations are suggested.  The wine shop is open Monday through Saturday from 8:30 AM to 1:30 PM, and 3:30 PM to 8 PM.  You can also visit their website and order the same wine they serve at the bar.  Orders over $150 qualify for free shipping.

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Trimani Wine Bar
Via Cernaia 37b (on the corner with Via Goito 20)
Metro: Repubblica or Castro Pretorio

2.  Casa Bleve

Casa Bleve is a chic wine bar located in the ground floor of a 16th century palazzo near Rome’s Pantheon.  In the dining area, small tables line the walls, which are filled with wine bottles.  While you eat, you can choose a wine from the bar’s French and Italian wine selection.  Again, if you have trouble choosing from the extensive wine list, the staff always has great suggestions.  The good portions and savory taste make it worth the price.  After your meal, if it’s not too busy, ask to see the historic wine cellar.  Casa Bleve is open from Tuesday through Saturday from 12:30 PM to 3 PM, and 7:30 PM to 10:30 PM.

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Casa Bleve
Via del Teatro Valle
Metro: Largo di Torre Argentina

3.  Enoteca Ferrara

Go to Enoteca Ferrara, in the area of Trastevere, to pamper yourself.  The bar opened a decade ago with the dedication of two sisters—Maria who is the architect and chef, and Lina who researches and creates the wine lists.  Located in a 15^th century building, Enoteca Ferrara’s interior is modern, but still keeps its charm of the old with arches, wooden ceilings, and the visible wine cellar.  The Mescita is the wine bar (and the entrance), where you can sample wines (of which there are 1200 labels!) and snack on food.  Every night from 6:30 PM to 9:30 PM, enjoy a complimentary apertivo buffet.

Lina’s research has produced an extensive wine list, which takes the form of two thick binders, one for red wine and one for white.  Wines range from 7 to 13 euro per glass and 15 to 390 euro per bottle.  These lists show the pairing with exotic munchies—traditional dishes as well as revamped versions—prepared by her sister.  In the winter, enjoy live jazz every Tuesday!  The bar is open from 6 PM to 2 AM.  The restaurant is open from 8 PM to midnight.

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Enoteca Ferrara
Via del Moro
Piazza Trilussa 41

4.  La Barrique

If you prefer champagne to wine, visit La Barrique (‘the barrels’) enoteca.  In the Monti neighborhood, La Barrique is known for Italian and French wines, and especially their extensive champagne list.  Enjoy a glass of champagne at the bar while munching on one of the many types of bruschetta and apertivi.  You may even get lucky by going on a night when there is live jazz and blues music.  In the wine shop, you can also find a decent supply of rum, whisky, and other liqueurs.  La Barrique is open from Monday through Saturday from noon to 2 AM.

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La Barrique
Via del Boschetto 41b

5.  Tastevin

Tastevin may be a small wine bar, but it has a wonderful list of wines.  About 1005 labels of French and Italian wines from large and smaller manufacturers line the wooden shelves, including the notable Barolo and Brunelli.  Since it is away from the busy life of Prati, it is still undiscovered by tourists and has a comfortable family atmosphere.  Daniele Catalani, the owner of Tastevin, is extremely helpful and personable, giving suggestions and advice to make his customers happy.

Tastevin serves a variety of hot and cold dishes including meats, cheeses, and gourmet salads.  The enoteca is open on Mondays from 10 AM to 10 PM, and Tuesday through Saturday from 10 AM to 3 PM, and 7 PM to midnight.

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Tastevin
Via Ciro Menotti 16, Prati
Bus: Piazza Giuseppe Mazzini

What’s your favorite wine bar in Rome?

Don’t forget to check out my wine bar recommendations for Florence and Paris!

Written by: Laura Photo Credit : VinoFamily / Antti Simonen

Six Tiny Towns on the French Riviera

You’ve seen the gorgeous pictures of the French Riviera, boasting its lofty cliffs that overlook the sparkling blue water and the many yachts and sailboats that visit the ports each year.  To say the least, the French Riviera is breathtaking.  It is one of the most well-known resort areas and coastal regions in the world.

The sailboats and yachts are proof of this as their sterns’ reveal the names of their home, which come from all over the world!  The mild-climate and colorful landscape have made the French Riviera a popular vacation destination.  Year-round, tourists visit the famous towns along the coastline—Nice, Monte Carlo, St. Tropez, Cannes—and indulge in the lush beaches, museums, and overall glamour of the area.  However, there is more to the French Riviera.  Charming small towns and villages in the hillside are just beckoning you to explore.  Check out these six tiny towns of the French Riviera!

Beaulieu-sur-Mer

South of Monaco is the small town of Beaulieu-sur-Mer, which means “beautiful place on the sea” in French.  This town is said to have one of the prettiest marinas on the Cote d’Azur.  Take advantage of the numerous restaurants on this harbor, and dine al fresco while enjoying the lovely view of the boats lined up in the marina.

In Beaulieu-sur-Mer you can experience a little bit of Greece by visiting the Villa Kérylos, which is a reproduction (built in 1908) of a fifth century B.C. Athenian home.  It is fully furnished and decorated, and is even available for events and weddings.  Admission is 8 euro.  If you want to spend a day relaxing on the beach, head to the beach at Baie des Fourmis.  Although it is near the center of town, this beach is isolated enough for a serene afternoon by the sea.  At the end of the day, dress your best, grab your passport, put on your poker face, and head to Casino Beaulieu-sur-Mer for a night on the town!

Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat

South of Beaulieu-sur-Mer, on the small peninsula, is the town of Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat.  Here, you’re bound to bump into someone famous since Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat is a popular winter getaway for the rich and famous.  Walking lovers rejoice! This is the perfect town to explore by foot with its 14 km coastal path hike.  The path is divided into three parts: tour of Cap Ferrat, Pine Forest, and the Maurice Rouvier walk, which will actually lead you into Beaulieu!

If you have a soft spot for furry critters, visit the zoo, which is home to over 300 animals.  Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat is the home of the beautiful palace, Grand Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, which is surrounded by a colorful garden.  Even if you can’t afford to spend the night in the luxurious suites, you can still enjoy dinner at the newly reopened restaurant.  And if you really want to see a glamorous building, visit the Villa Ile de France.  This palace is furnished with the treasures of Béatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild including various works of art and furniture.  When you finish with the interior of the mansion, go outside and wander through the seven different gardens, each with its own theme: Florentine, Spanish, and Japanese, the garden of muses, the garden of lapidary, and the rose garden.

With all of the walking and sightseeing, you’re bound to work up an appetite.  Just walk along the port and choose a cozy restaurant of your choice for a delicious meal while overlooking the water.  For the beach lovers, there are three different beaches to choose from in Cap Ferrat.  At the base of the cliffs and just a five to ten minute walk from the port is Paloma beach.  Because of the protection from the cliffs, this beach doesn’t get as much wind, but it also has less sun in the afternoon.  Passable beach is northwest of the peninsula, near the Office of Tourisme and the zoo.  If you enjoy being around other beach-goers, head to the popular Cro de Pei Pin beach, which is north of the port at the Anse Lilong bay.

Vence

Vence is known as the “City of Art.”  Artists flock to this little town on the Riviera, using the previous geniuses—Dufy, Matisse, Chagall, Dubuffet—as inspiration for their artwork.  Visit one of the many galleries, or simply wander around and admire the sculptures and buildings around the town.  Take a stroll down Avenue Henri Matisse and explore the Chapelle Matisse (also known as the Chapelle du Rosaire des Dominicanes de Vence).  If you’re lucky, you may even get a chance to visit an outdoor art exhibit.

This little town is not just about art; it has a great medieval history as well.  There are five medieval ports that lead into Vence: Portail Levis, Porte du Peyra, Tour-Porte du Signadour, Porte du Faubourg ou Pontis, and Porte d’Orient.  Stop by the Office de Tourisme and pick up a map for a self-guided walking tour.  Throughout Vence, there are pale-grey numbered panels that describe the historical sites on the Visite de la Cité Historique.  Don’t miss the Fountaine de la Foux, which supplies mineral water from La Foux river.  Visitors have been known to take a jug-full of the pure water!

Eze

Built up by the Saracen pirates in the thirteenth century, Eze became one of the main “Villages Perche.”  The Villages Perche got their name because of the way they appeared to be sitting on the cliffs or glued to the sides of the mountains.  Because it was so hard to reach, Eze was abandoned until the 1920’s when the proper technology allowed for road systems and access to water.  Now, visitors can walk through the streets, stopping in shops that carry artisan crafts.  With the warm climate, Eze has beautiful vegetation of bananas, dates, and carob trees.  There’s vegetation that is even more vibrant in the exotic botanic garden Jardin Exotique Panorama that you can visit for twelve euro.  There are two perfumeries in Eze—Galimard and Fragonard—and with a map from the Office de Tourisme, you can save 10% off your purchase.

Peillon

Truly get away from the tourists and embark on a medieval adventure with a trip to Peillon.  No cars are allowed in Peillon (probably because they wouldn’t be able to fit through the narrow streets); therefore, visitors must park at the plaza, which is at the entrance to the village.  Peillon doesn’t have the typical souvenir shops, just a few hotels and restaurants outside the village.  At the plaza outside Peillon is the only gift shop, La Maiouneta.  Here you can find produce, ceramics, and other gifts for passing tourists.  The stone houses seem as though they are built into the rock, lining the narrow streets.  You’ll be busy all day touring the medieval buildings.

La Turbie

La Turbie is known as the “balcony” of the French Riviera, overlooking the Principality of Monaco.  In La Turbie, you will find the pride of the town, the Trophée d’Auguste (also known as the Trophée des Alpes) built by Emperor Augustus in 13 B.C.  It was a symbol of the unity and power of the Roman Empire.  Now, you can visit this 35-meter tall statue and the adjacent museum and learn more about the history.  Admission is 5 euro for adults and 3.50 euro for 18-25 year olds.  Visit the 18^th century Saint Michel’s Church, which is a baroque church that was built using the ruins from the Trophée des Alpes.  It is decorated with art from the 15^th century, and is open every day until 6 pm.  Nature lovers can wander through the Grand Corniche Nature Park, taking in the view from the top, while shoppers can enjoy exploring the central part of the village along the Moyenne Corniche Highway.

What’s your favorite town on the French Riviera?

Written by : Laura Photo Credits:  hillsieboy / jcoterhals / sara maternini / exfordyswife / bousinka / tyb

Travel Tip Tuesday : Budget Sleeps in Europe

You may remember a Travel Tip Tuesday a while back where I talked about finding budget accommodations when traveling to Europe.  I have even covered cheap sleeps in Paris and in Italy.

As luck would have it a whole new crop of non-hotel websites have popped onto my radar, thanks to a recent article in the New York Times Travel Section, titled Europe Without Hotels.

It’s a great article, definitely worth a read.  To give you a short overview – basically, there are sites out there a bit more sophisticated and safer than Craig’s List, that offer rooms in someone’s home or apartment which can cost much less than a hotel room.

The other bonus with these types of rooms?   You get to meet and hang out with a local in their city.  Imagine the cultural lesson you could have.  And the great local spots that they’ll point you too.  Shopping, eating, walking, great music venues….the possibilities are endless!

Here are the websites that were mentioned in the article.

• AirBnB.com The site looks pleasing to the eye, there are reviews from others who have stayed and they have gotten alot of good press recently, which perhaps adds to their credibility.
• iStopOver.com This site also rents office space – but I searched for rooms in Paris and found about 76 options in the City of Light.  Prices ranged from $100 to $2,000 per night and some of the photos looked gorgeous.
• Crashpadder.com If you are heading to London, this is the site for you.  With over 1,000 listings available for rent, you are sure to find something that suits you.  There are considerably less for France and Italy, but perhaps those numbers will grow over time.  It’s certainly worth keeping your eye on this website.

I am going to add my own honorable mention.  At a recent travel conference, I had the pleasure of meeting the founder of an organization called Casa Casa.  Casa Casa is billed as ‘bed & breakfast hospitality on a budget!’  Right up my alley.

Hospitable folks interested in hosting travelers join for a small membership fee of about $20 and get to stay in a selection of 190 members’ private homes. You will only need to pay a small gratuity for your room, rather than the typical nightly room rate at a B&B. The majority of locations are in the U.S., but there are a handful of members in Europe as well.

These type of unique and up-close-and-personal travel experiences are definitely not for everyone.  But for a budget-minded people-person, who loves learning about the local culture, it might just be perfect.

Would you seek out one of these options when traveling?  Would you actually be a host and have travelers stay with you? And if you already participated in this, why not share your experiences in the comments?

Don’t forget to visit Cherrye for your second dose of travel tips!