Fresh mozzarella cheese tastes simply delicious. Especially when it’s handmade in small batches in Italy. In fact, once you try fresh, there is just no turning back. Whether you use it in a Caprese salad, melt it on top of pizza or just eat it plain, nothing can quite compare.
I’ve often wondered how exactly it’s made and thought it would be great fun to watch mozzarella making in action. As I found out during my recent trip to Puglia, it’s a relatively simple process. One that I got to witness first hand.

Mozzarella gets its name from the Italian word ‘mozzare’ which means to lop off, which is exactly what the mozzarella maker does to make smaller pieces.
A basic overview of the process, which is not meant to be used as a recipe or tutorial to make your own at home, is described below.
In order to make the best mozzarella it’s important to start off with farm fresh milk. Either cows milk or water buffalo milk (which is what the famous bufala mozzarella is made from) can be used. The milk is then curdled and drained to eliminate the whey. The curd is cut up into smaller pieces that are ground up and immersed into hot water.
Using a combination of hands and a stick, the cheese maker stirs and kneads the curds until it becomes a rubbery, smooth and shiny mass. Once the cheese maker determines this white blob has reached the right consistency, he takes his fingers and ‘lops off’ small pieces which form the cheese.
These shapes can be the familiar round balls, a large braid called a treccia or in this case, tied into little knots called nodina.

The formed cheese is then placed into cold water and soaked in brine where the cheese will absorb just the right amount of salt to make the perfect texture – both creamy and elastic.
The result is of course salty, chewy, semi-soft cheesy goodness which is best eaten within hours of making it for the best flavor, which is why you’ll never find mozzarella which tastes this good outside Italy.
And if you can forgive the odd angle of the video I shot during the process (it was one of my first attempts at video and I’m still learning the ins and outs of camera orientation)
you can see the mozzarella maker actually lopping off pieces to form the cheese.
How do you like to eat mozzarella?
Want to learn how to make fresh mozzarella in Italy? I’d be happy to arrange a mouth-watering excursion for you – just click here to get in touch!
There are no shortage of hotels from which to choose when planning to visit cities in the southern Italy region of Puglia. From Bari to Trani. Brindisi to Lecce. And every city in between.
But in my opinion, much of the region’s charm and character can’t be experienced by booking a typical five-star hotel in one of Puglia’s dynamic and interesting cities. Instead, it comes from staying in one of the more unique types of accommodation that I would highly recommend. Here are two of my favorites.
A Masseria

In other areas of Italy this type of accommodation would be known as an agriturismo. But since Puglia is different from other parts of Italy in so many ways, including language dialects, they are known as masseria (masserie plural).
Many of these fortified farmhouses have been completely restored and can offer a very authentic and homey experience in the region. Offerings range from both simple and rustic to top-of-the-line and luxurious.
Located in the countryside or near the coast, masserie can be found on working farms among gardens, crops, vineyards and perhaps olive groves. Many harvest their own crops, pick and press their own oil or make wine right on their own property. Some may allow you to participate, others love to tour you around their property or depending on the time of year, you may just enjoy the fruits of their labor. A perfect spot for food-lovers and those looking for a slow travel experience and a relaxed pace for their vacation. It’s here you can experience true Puglian hospitality, excellent food, gentle breezes and lovely landscapes.
Obviously the quality, amenities, style (either bed-and-breakfast or self-catered) and price will vary, but the good news on that front is there are so many options, the perfect one exists for everyone. This would be my preferred method of staying and exploring the area.
A Trullo

Clustered in the town of Alberobello Italy, trullo (trulli plural), are unique limestone houses with conical roofs, listed on the UNESCO heritage site. I read someone’s account of their experience who likened them to hobbit homes, and I think it’s a pretty cute analogy. Wish I’d thought of it. In recent years, trulli have been restored to house restaurants, boutiques, food shops and of course vacation homes.
Many of those available for rent are very tiny, sparse and rustic – but others have been totally renovated with extra care being given to keep white interior stone walls and arches intact, while still offering a cozy experience. Again, each particular trullo will vary in the number of rooms and types of amenities. Some modern and updated versions might include things like air-conditioning, laundry facilities and even wi-fi!
Self-catering apartments, trulli villages, hotels and B&B styles can be found both in and around Alberobello and scattered throughout the Itria Valley. Though you could stay in a trullo in the heavily-touristed Alberobello, you could also opt to rent one outside of town which would give you the trullo experience in a more remote and quiet location. Trullo in the countryside may even include things like outdoor ovens, swimming pools and bikes for guests’ use.
Need help finding a personalized recommendation for where to stay in Puglia? Click here to see how I can help!
Many folks who travel to Italy are often lulled into the false notion that everyone speaks English in Italy. While that may be true of the majority of those in tourism professions in large cities like Rome, Florence, Milan, Venice etc, you won’t find everyone speaking English in many of the smaller towns and villages that I recommend you visit for the most authentic Italy.
It certainly wasn’t the case when I needed directions while driving through the Tuscan countryside.
Would be travelers to Italy are often afraid of taking that first step in planning a trip because they aren’t fluent in the Italian language. Fear takes over and instead of a fabulous dream vacation to Italy, they wind up squashing their dreams and choosing a safer, English-speaking destination, closer to home. Florida, California, I’m talking about you.
For the reasons listed above, I’ve always recommended learning at least a little bit of the local langauge before traveling. You don’t need to be fluent, but arming yourself with a basic understanding of the language, along with a good phrasebook or smartphone translation app, would go along way to making your trip smoother.
And I also like to mention that learning and speaking Italian can be fun!
Nothing beats having a native speaking private tutor for learning Italian, but for those who don’t have access or the desire to learn in that way (or don’t wish to learn that much), Mango Languages has a fabulous option!
I’ve used and recommended their standard language lessons that you can get on-line, and even for free through some participating libraries. But now they have a new product called Mango Passport. It’s a downloadable software program, designed specifically for travel.
After downloading the software for the Mango Passport Italian on my Macbook and running through each and every slide from every lesson in an effort to give it a thorough test drive before reviewing it, I’m now happy to report my findings.

Mango Passport Italy Screenshot
Here are the things that I like about it:
And a few minor suggestions:
I will also mention that on the initial purchase, I didn’t receive the license code required for download, but this is likely because I had a special code to input instead of just making a regular purchase. But an email and simple phone call to Mango Languages customer service resolved the matter quickly and professionally and I was up and running in no time after that.
It was one of the better experiences I have had with a brand’s customer service department of late – so kudos to them for being so friendly and responsive.
If you think you might be interested in learning Italian, I’ve got some great news!
Mango Languages has been kind enough to give away a free download of the complete Italian program, which also includes an MP3 version for learning on the go.
I’ll be giving it away next month to one lucky Mélange Travel Newsletter subscriber. Not a subscriber yet? No worries, you can join here.
And if you don’t like the idea of downloading anything to your computer – Mango is now offering a boxed CD set as a test on Amazon for five languages. Though the Italian version isn’t available yet, the French version is.
Disclosure : Mango Languages gave me a complimentary download of Passport Italian for the purpose of this review. As always, the opinions contained in my review are my own.
Does one of your New Year’s Resolutions involve becoming a carry-on only traveler? If so, then you have come to the right place! For years I’ve been extolling the virtues and benefits of carry-on travel, but I understand the time has to be right to make the switch.
Maybe you need the airlines to lose your bag one-to-many-times. Perhaps you have to pay out the wazoo for overweight luggage. Or you won’t be convinced until you spend time at the Chiropractor or Physical Therapist to recover from a pulled muscle because you wrenched your back trying to juggle multiple bags.
Whatever your motivation, once that magical moment happens and the glimmer of possibility appears, something else is also bound to happen. The objections, excuses, doubts and reasons why you can’t do it start rolling in. You need a little tough love from someone to tell you how to get over those stumbling blocks and what to just let go of to make it happen.
And if I can help a couple who traveled to France for their two-week honeymoon successfully with only carry-on luggage – than there is hope for you too!
Here are three stumbling blocks that prevent you from becoming a successful carry-on traveler and how to get over them.
1. The Liquids Carry-On Restrictions
This stumbling block is really a two-parter. I’m referring to both the 3-1-1 liquids carry on rule, which makes it seem impossible to keep up your standard level of hygiene when traveling, and bringing home liquid souvenirs like wine, liquid food items, perfume etc. For many, the thought of not having bulk quantities of your must-have beauty cream is enough to set you right over the edge, but don’t worry. You can get over it.
As a wine-lover, I remember a time when I used to be able to bring home special bottles of hard-to-locate wines or olive oil as souvenirs from my travels. I know the thought of not being able to just take home bottles filled with grapey goodness may make you give up and pull out that massive suitcase again, but don’t. You can get over it.
2. Doing Laundry
In order to be a successful carry-on traveler for a trip longer than 5-7 days, it’s an inevitable fact that you’ll need to do….laundry. I know, I know – it’s vacation. You don’t want to do chores. That’s why you are ON vacation, right? To relax and get away from pesky things like housework. But don’t let it deter you. You can get over it.
3. Packing Shoes
This one’s for you ladies out there (and a few men too!). You know who you are. You can’t imagine not being able to pack a separate pair of shoes to go with each and every outfit that you bring. You think you’d be disappointing your loyal fan base who expect you too show them photos of you wearing those cute peep-toe pumps. I’m here to tell ya – you can get over it.
What is your biggest stumbling block when it comes to traveling with only a carry-on?
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Have you decided to make the switch to carry-on only travel, but don’t know where to start? Click here to see how I can help!
Those who have traveled to Paris before know that the city has some very solid transportation options. The Paris Metropolitan, RER, buses, Bat-o-bus, Vogué0 ferry service and of course Paris’s green bike sharing program – called Velib‘.
But, Paris keeps thinking outside the box and has recently introduced a new, unique green transportation option – an electric car-sharing program called Autolib’. It’s very similar to Velib’ in that you can take advantage of short-term car rental and the car can be returned to any participating station.
Photo Credit : Francisco Gonzalez
Though I’m a huge fan of what Paris is doing, and I think it’s a great idea worth promoting, I’m certainly not here to advocate for those traveling to Paris to run right out, sign up for the Autolib’ program and start racing around the city streets in a car!
There is no need for Paris travelers to have a car in the city center.
However, I also like to think outside the box, and when I heard about Autolib’, I thought it could be useful to Paris bound travelers in a few instances. According to Autolib’, the cars can’t be taken outside the Ile-de-France region, but the battery life will allow you to travel 250km in a city and 150km on the highway.
Currently, there are 250 Autolib’ stations and cars can be picked up and dropped of at different stations.
Keeping that in mind, with one of the electric Bluecars, you could visit these popular spots just outside of Paris:
And for the kids:
And if the additional proposed Autolib’ stations are approved, there may be opportunities to visit these attractions:
If you are thinking about using the Paris Autolib’ program, keep the following facts in mind:
It may not be the most cost-effective method of transport (though not having to pay high gas prices does offset the cost), but if you like the freedom of getting out of Paris to explore for a few hours, while doing your part for the environment, it might be a worthwhile option compared to the traditional car rental.
For more information and details about the program, visit the very extensive and helpful Autolib’ website.
What do you think? Would you consider using Autolib’ to visit any of the spots I’ve listed above?
If you enjoyed this tip, you may want to consider subscribing to my free monthly Mélange Travel newsletter.
As you know, I just returned from a research trip to Puglia, also known as Apulia. And though I know that not everyone should or would travel to Puglia, I can definitely see this region, which is the heel of Italy’s boot, appealing to many different kind of travelers.
Here is an overview of my opinions on who Puglia would be a good fit for as well as some reasons to put the area on the top of your travel bucket list.

Ancient Olive Trees in Puglia
Who Should Travel to Puglia?
1. Those who are enjoy good quality, fresh, delicious, healthy food and tasty, robust wine.
2. Those who enjoy meandering through the countryside, seeing gnarly olive trees bordered by ancient stone walls as far as the eye can see – with an occassional rustic trullo house, or masserie dotting the landscape.
3. Those who enjoy charming ports, both small and large, with colorful fishing boats and picturesque coastline.
4. Those looking for an off-the-beaten-path destination. And those who are into slow food and slow travel.
5. Those who have visited the other areas of Italy, like Rome, Venice, Florence and Tuscany and have loved everything they have done so far, but wish to delve a bit deeper into the culture and looking for a slightly different, yet authentic experience than what they have had in the other places. I can honestly say that Puglia has a much different feel than the other more touristed parts of Italy. Not to say one is better than another. Just different.
6. Cruisers who might be visiting the area and docking at the port city of Bari, the capital city of Puglia.
7. Those who want a good mix of countryside, seaside and city life for their vacations. Traveling to Puglia, you will find it all.

The food in Puglia is delicious!
What Can You Do in Puglia?
1. You can experience a wide range of food and wine excursions. In fact, you could fill an entire itinerary eating and drinking your way through Puglia, which I highly recommend (this should come as no surprise)! Fill your days doing winery tours and tastings, watching how olive oil is made at an ancient olive mill, watching mozzarella and burrata cheese being made, learning how to make fresh orecchiette pasta, touring a food market, watching the fisherman unload their catch of the day in a port city. You get the idea. Puglia is a food-lovers paradise.
2. You can stay in a restored masseria in the middle of the Puglian countryside, surrounded by centuries old olive trees and prolific fruit trees.
3. In the summer months, you can enjoy a relaxing stay in a seaside resort and soak up the sunshine on one of the pristine sandy beaches.
4. Explore the unique history of the region. Romans, Grecian and Moorish influences abound.
5. Visit the unique cities of Alberobello – famous for its trullo houses, Ostuni, which is called the ‘white city’ and is reminiscent of Greece, and Lecce, a romantic Baroque city – dubbed the Florence of the South.
6. If churches are your thing – similarly to the spots in the North, Puglia is littered with them. Each one more beautiful than the next.
7. Spa-lovers can experience one of the best thermal spas, perched atop white craggy cliffs along the coast or opt for a more modern, luxurious experience at one of the more upscale hotels in the area where their exclusive products and wellness treatments revolve around local traditions.
8. Sports enthusiasts and adventure travelers can find fun too. There are many lovely golf-courses in the region and Puglia is very popular with cyclists as well.

The Trulli in Alberobello seem straight out of a fairytale
Why Should you Travel to Puglia?
1. Because of the delicious food and wine available. In fact, Puglia’s cuisine, a fine example of the Mediterranean diet, is on the UNESCO World Heritage site. And they have over 26 DOC wines and some of the best extra-virgin olive oil money can buy! Pretty impressive, eh? Are you seeing a pattern here yet?
2. Because Puglia is a very affordable, budget-friendly destination.
3. Because with two airports, both the Bari airport and Brindisi airport, it’s a very easy area to get to.
4. Because it’s accessible by train. Although it is always best to rent a car for the most freedom and flexibility, you can actually experience much of Puglia by train. And the possibility of a private driver and/or guide for one day to visit a harder to reach area is definitely an option.
5. Because the Puglia region has 3 different UNESCO World Heritage sites to explore. The Trulli, Castel del Monte and the Sanctuary of Archangel Michael in Monte Sant’Angelo. The Sassi of Matera in nearby Basilicata is also on the list.
6. Because of the people. Warm, friendly, welcoming and very willing to please and share their region with you.

Bari, capital of Puglia, has a lovely seaport
When Should You Travel to Puglia?
Well, of course my answer would be now! And that’s not just my travel-consultant-self-trying-to-sell-you-a-trip voice talking. There is a much bigger reason why I say to go to Puglia now.
Right now, the Puglia region is an undiscovered gem. Sure, it’s been a pretty well-known summer vacation spot for both Italians and Europeans for quite sometime. But many Americans haven’t really ventured south of Rome (with the exception of Sicily and the Amalfi coast) to discover the treasures of Puglia, yet.
But that is about to change in a very big way, I can promise you that. In fact, I know of at least five recent conferences/events that have taken place over the past few months- all in an effort to heavily promote Puglia tourism. The push is on.
And you know what will happen when word starts getting out, right? Massive amounts of tourists. And more tourists means a lot less availability, which will cause prices to increase and it will become harder and harder to find authentic, unspoiled gems in the region. Dare I say that Puglia might just be the new Tuscany in the next few years?
Another answer to the when to travel to Puglia question would be anytime. You can travel to Puglia year-round because of its temperate climate. In fact, the region is pretty dry. So, if you are looking strictly for a beach or seaside destination, May – October is the best time for you.
However, if you are more interested in the scenery, culture, food, wine and history - Puglia makes a fabulous off-season destination. The weather during my mid-November trip was sunny and warm, in the high 50′s to low 60′s during the day. The bonuses of an off-season trip are lower prices from November – April, and not competing with many other tourists.
That also translates into a much more authentic visit.
So, what are you waiting for? If you want to experience Puglia, get in touch so we can discuss how I can best help!

© Alitalia
Up to this point, the three most popular transportation options to Rome’s city center from the main Leonardo DaVinci Fiumicino Airport have been:
However, Alitalia has introduced their own new bus service for getting to the center of Rome.
The only catch is that you need to be flying into Rome on an Alitalia flight in order to use it.
If you are flying on Alitalia, you can ride their brand new fleet of buses that will take you to one of several different drop off points throughout Rome, for only €7 each way. The buses will drop of at:
Really not a bad deal. And if you notice, other than the taxi, most other options will bring you to Rome’s Termini Station, which may not be convenient or close to where you are staying. With so many drop off locations, chances are you’ll find a stop on the Alitalia Bus line that is more conveniently located to your hotel.
To book your ticket or find out more information, visit the Alitalia Bus Service website.
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Would you fly Alitalia just to be able to ride the bus to Rome? And if you did fly Alitalia, would you buy a ticket on the Alitalia Bus?
I am very excited to report that in just a few days I will be traveling to Puglia! I’ve never been to this region of southern Italy, the heel of the boot to be exact, so it will be fun getting to explore a new area – an area completely different from the other parts of Italy that I have visited and fallen in love with.
I’ve been as far south as the Amalfi Coast, and have sung many praises about Positano and Ravello – but I’ve never been to the heel of the boot.
If all goes well, I’ll be adding Puglia, also known as Apulia, to the areas that I create custom itineraries, itinerary reviews, provide hourly consults and arrange foodie adventures for. I’ll also be canvasing the area for yummy cooking classes, wine tastings, market tours and local guides.
What am I most exited about? Why am I looking forward to going? I’m glad you asked. Let me tell you:
1. Puglia’s food, olive oil and wine. The Puglia region is known as a food-lover’s paradise. This area produces over 26 DOC wines, 40% of Italy’s olive oil and hefty amounts of pasta. Those are promising statistics for a passionate foodie like me. Red wines like Negroamaro and Primitivo will be on my list to sample. Also on offer will be regional specialties like orecchiette, burrata, focaccia and maybe some fresh local seafood, right off the docks.
I’m drooling just thinking about it – are you? And though it’s not a look that would blend with the locals, I’m thinking elastic waist pants will be in order.
2. Puglia is an off-the-beaten-path location. It’s certainly not the first place people think of when planning a visit to Italy – and that gets me really excited.

3. Puglia’s Climate. Because of Puglia’s southern location, the area enjoys a temperate climate year round. Many of its popular villages, cities and towns are located right on the Adriatic sea, which means beaches, seafood, port towns, azure water, lovely views and of course lots and lots of beautiful photos.
4. Puglia’s UNESCO world heritage sites. At least three of them and I am excited to explore a few of them.
5. The Trulli. Puglia is home to the town of Alberobello, famous for its white limestone houses with conical-shaped roofs, called Trulli - and I’m looking forward to seeing them up close and learning more about them. The architecture and scenery in this region are all very different from areas like Tuscany.

I’ll have lots to write about when I return, but if you can’t wait for my updates on the blog, feel free to follow along on Twitter and Facebook as I will be sending out updates about my discoveries, what I’m eating and of course lots of photos during my time in Puglia!
Photo Credit : Flickr
One of the things I love most about authentic Italian food is the flavor of the good-quality ingredients and how just using a few you can create flavorful and uncomplicated dishes.
Homemade pasta, with just a few ingredients can make a hearty, delicious and simple meal. And though it is hard to rival authentic Italian food eaten in Italy, I’ve had good luck finding it at places like Otto, Mercato and Aroma Osteria.
My recent visit to Il Buco proved yet again that you don’t necessarily have to travel to Italy in order to get it. In fact, dining at Il Buco, you would never know that you are not in Italy.
Il Buco’s history speaks loudly to me – as it’s a combination of flea market bric-a-brac and the love of Italian products. The dining room looked as if it was plucked right from a charming rustic trattoria in the middle of the Italian countryside; well-worn wooden tables, exposed beams, racks stacked with wine, copper pots suspended from the tin ceiling and old pottery scattered throughout. In a word, cozy.

© Il Buco
Since this was a solo visit, I saddled up to the bar and proceeded to chat with both the bartender/server and the manager, who were both happy to chat, delightful and informative. The wine list is extensive, and there are a good amount of tempting Italian reds and whites by the glass. This day I chose red.
Delicious country bread was brought to me with a dish of pure, golden olive oil, fresh from Umbria and I decided to try an appetizer of marinated olives with rosemary and lemon zest, which didn’t disappoint. I was happy to fish out a few niçoise, my favorites.
I was excited to learn that they served half portions of pasta, which worked out perfectly since I was alone, not too hungry and not wanting to schlep leftovers around all day. I decided on the special – Pappardelle, handmade egg pasta, with pork sugo and rosemary.
The pasta, cooked perfectly to al dente, were delicate, golden ribbons of goodness and the sauce was just right – not too rich and not too overpowering for the pasta. Pasta shouldn’t be swimming in sauce.

Convinced I was too full for dessert, my server announced that they had homemade gelato and my favorite – nocciola was on offer. How could I resist? The fig sounded equally interesting, so rather than try to decide, I ordered both!
To avoid the flavors not mixing well in the same bowl, a separate dish of each arrived. Both were some of the best I’ve tasted. As I was about to leave, bloated and satisfied, the staff did something downright sinful. They alerted me to their brand new sister locale, Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria, which had just opened, right around the corner.

Little did they know, they were dealing with a hard-core Italian foodie. Full-belly and all I managed to skip the whole way over. It’s a more casual spot to pick up authentic Italian products, grab freshly baked bread (including focaccia by-the-slice), sandwiches, Italian salumi and cheeses and of course more homemade gelato.
There’s also a bar serving espresso and cappuccino manned by very friendly baristas, and a casual restaurant in the back, that was due to open any day. This location offers many of the same wonderful Italian products and philosophy, with prices that reflect a more relaxed and casual setting. I was full, but still drooling.
I managed to relax at the bar over a cappuccino and was given a small spoonful of the nectarine gelato, which was just as fruity and creamy as my earlier flavors. I couldn’t resist taking a slab of rosemary and olive oil focaccia to-go, which I enjoyed on the train ride home.

Two great spots to get authentic Italian food in New York City – each with its own unique atmosphere. One, a more romantic and upscale restaurant and the other, a combination of Italian grocery, cafe and osteria. Not Italy, but it sure comes close.
Il Buco
47 Bond Street
New York, NY 10012
Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria
53 Great Jones Street
New York, NY 10012
Share my passion for authentic Italian food? Click here to find out how I can create your next foodie adventure.
This month’s Travel Photo Friday shot was submitted by Joshua C. Forest. It’s an evening shot of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul.

Joshua writes this about his photo:
“My hostel was right near the Blue Mosque, so I spent some time wandering around near it at night. It’s actually right across a big park from the Hagia Sophia. The sun was just setting as I got this, it’s a bit darker than I would have liked, but I still like the effect!”
I love it too. Thanks for sharing it Josua!
Join us for the next edition of Travel Photo Friday on December 2nd.
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Have a favorite travel photo you’d like to see featured here?
Send it along with short description to mymelange [at] yahoo. com