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Borgo Egnazia : A Luxury Resort Property in Puglia

During my visit to Puglia, I was lucky enough to stay for a bit at Borgo Egnazia.  Since luxury accommodations aren’t usually on my list, it was certainly a special treat to spend time in one of the Leading Hotels of the World.  A first for me.  Hopefully not a last.

Borgo Egnazia is a luxury resort situated between the Adriatic coast, the ruins of the ancient Roman town of Egnazia, and the village of Savelletri.  It’s a new modern property, which is made to resemble an old borgo (village) and is nestled among very old olive groves.

The sprawling complex is stunning, all the buildings are pristine white stone which is a lovely contrast to the green olive trees and the blue-green water in the pools.  And arches, so many arches everywhere you look.  Both inside and out.

The decor is calm and serene, a color scheme of taupes, creams and whites, with pops of aqua throughout.  It’s just a very relaxing place to spend time and believe me, I could have spent a long, long time here. Forever, not being long enough.

Borgo Egnazia offers three different types of accommodation:

1.  La Corte This is the hotel which houses 63 stylishly appointed guest rooms in the main building.  Suites have large terraces which afford views of the sea, countryside and golf course.

2.  The Villas These are secluded little houses, perfect for families or groups traveling together.  Complete with fully equipped kitchens, dishwashers and laundry facilities, beautiful balconies, comfortable beds, and private swimming pools with side chairs and outdoor dining tables.  Each villa is surrounded by locked gates.

3. The Borgo  Resembling a typical white Puglian village, it has 92 rooms divided into Borgo Rooms, Borgo Deluxe and Townhouses.

Since the complex itself is like a litte town, with winding mazes of streets, I will tell you honestly that it was easy to get lost, especially at night.  However, one very helpful service was the taxis.  Not big yellow ones either.  Little golf carts.  Just call the front desk, give your room number and a cart will come pick you up and deliver you wherever you wish.  I liked that nice touch.

Strolling or motoring around the property you’ll see a nice mix of olive tress, prickly pear cactus, and even bright red globes of  pomegranates dangling from plants.

The gorgeous and spacious rooms I liked the little touches. Bamboo slippers, giant walk-in closets with vanities fit for a queen, comfy robes and sumptuous bath products with their signature scent and logo on them.  My room had a stone bathroom complete with a large tub and a rain shower head.

Throughout the main building, you’ll find cozy sitting areas in little nooks around every corner.  Both inside…

And outside…

>For more room and property photos click here.

A few of their amenities:

• bicycles for guests’ use. tour the property or ride to the beach
• San Domenico 18-hole golf course
• Vair Spa (vair means “real” in local dialect), where treatments and products are based on ancient traditions
• boutique
• four restaurants
• three outdoor and one heated indoor pools
• cooking classes for adults and children
• beach clubs, and kid and teen clubs
• personal chef services and 24hr room service
• cigar lounge
• ability to host large events

When I arrived, it was late and dark, and though I didn’t get photos, the outside looked just magical, all aglow with light from the massive black lanterns, which are scattered all over the property. Inside the main building, fireplaces in all of the many sitting areas were always burning.

The food and wine here were both fantastic. Gourmet food, with fresh, local, in-season ingredients and traditional recipes.  Fresh fish, homemade pastas, cheeses, fruit and vegetables, they follow a very Mediterranean diet.  Most of the ingredients are home-grown and they even have an herb garden on the property.  They gave me a tiny booklet with printed recipes so I could make a few of their dishes.

And the staff were all perfectly lovely, warm and wonderfully accommodating, which you would expect from a top-quality resort.

Borgo Egnazia is a perfect place to explore the Itria Valley (Alberobello, Ostuni, Locorotondo etc.), Lecce, Bari and everywhere in between.  Because of its remote location, you will need a car to explore the area.  It’s about equal distance, 45 minutes by car from both Bari and Brinsidi airports.

If you’re looking for a luxe, contemporary resort to explore Puglia from, or just relax with the family and swim or play golf, this one would top the list.  I can’t think of one negative.  Well, other than the fact that I had to leave. Sigh.

What do you think of the place?  Would you stay here?

 Need help finding the perfect accommodation for your stay in Puglia?  Click here to see how I can help!

Le Marche Travel : Ascoli Piceno

It’s no secret I like lesser known, off-the-beaten-path places in Italy.  It’s in these areas that a very authentic experience  can be had.  The Le Marche region would certainly make the cut.  The area shares a border to the west with Umbria and to the east, you’ll find a lovely coastline along the Adriatic sea.

Sunflowers in Ascoli Piceno

Photo Credit : Flickr

Recently, I was invited to learn more about a province in Le Marche called Ascoli Piceno (As-koh-lee Pee-chay-noh) and its food and wine.  I got the opportunity to hear first hand from a Consigliere Provinciale, a type of local councilman and ambassador who hails from the area, as he talked very passionately and proudly about his home.

Today, I’ll talk a bit about the area and I’ll follow up with posts about the food and wine.

Ascoli Piceno is the southernmost province in Le Marche.  Not only is it the name of the province, but it’s also the name of the capital town within the province.  I know, the name is hard enough to pronounce – so why not make it even more confusing, right?

A lovely piazza in Ascoli Piceno Photo credit : Flickr

Photo credit : Flickr

Why visit Ascoli Piceno?

Other than the food and wine (which of course always tops my list of reasons to visit a place) Ascoli Piceno has

• medieval towns
• Roman ruins
• many historic churches
• charm and authenticity
• a perfect combination of green mountains, little towns, sandy beaches and rocky coastline
• two natural parks, Sibillini National Park and Gran Sasso-Laga National Park
• local craft artisans; goldsmiths, leather, terracotta, majolica, pillow lace
• hardly any tourists.  And it’s inexpensive compared to other popular areas of Italy
• convenient to nearby Umbria and Rome – about 2 hours from each. Abruzzo is even closer.

Things to do

The town of Ascoli Piceno itself has both a new town and an old town.  In the old town, you’ll see plenty of travertine marble, ancient facades, ruins and tiny mazes of streets.  It once held about 200 towers, but today only about 50 are visible.

- Spend time in the Piazza del Popolo, the location of the old forum and one of the most beautiful squares in Italy.

- Visit the 15th century Duomo in the Piazza Arringo and the Crypt of San Emidio, which has wonderful mosaics.

- The Pinocoteca, the 2nd-largest art gallery in Le Marche, housed in the 17th century Palazzo Comunale, is worth a visit.

- Visit any of the more than 14 churches. The Church of San Pietro Martire, a 14th century Gothic church, is said to hold a thorn of Christ’s crown.

- If you like ruins, make sure you see the Porta Gemina, an old Roman twin gate, Porta Tufilla, a tower gate, and the Ponte Tufilo bridge.

- Relax in the Botanical Garden.

- Take a break under the old porticos at the historic Caffe Meletti, founded in 1907, where literary greats like Hemingway once sat.

-Shop at the monthly Antiques Market, which is held on the weekend surrounding the third Sunday of the month.

Coastal towns worth a visit in Ascoli Piceno province

• Cupra Marittima
• Grottammare (has cute windy streets and panoramic views of the sea)
• San Benedetto del Tronto (the place to pick for a sandy beach)
• Aquata del Tranto
• Aquasanta Terme  (site of a Roman thermal spa)

View from Grottammare Le Marche

Photo Credit : Wikimedia

Offida is another lovely nearby town in the province worth a visit.  I’ll be doing a separate post on Offida.

When to visit

Ascoli Piceno can be a lovely year-round destination, but keep in mind that since it is near mountains, it gets snow.  So if you’re a ski bunny, winter might be a good time.  If not, spring, summer or fall are all nice. Or you may want to time a visit to coincide with these fun events:

• La Quintana – The first Sunday in August, a historical Renaissance parade takes place where everyone dresses in costume.  It’s followed by La Quintana, the town’s version of a palio, where six knights compete for each of the six neighborhoods.
• Carnavale – It’s not just for Venice!  In February, Ascoli Piceno and Offida both have their version of Carnavale.  Locals dress in costume and masks and take to the streets to dance, party and perform.

How to visit

The nearest airports would be Pescara in Abruzzo or Ancona in Le Marche.

As with most smaller regions in Italy, it’s best visited by car, so you can explore all the nooks and crannies and discover your own little secret treasures.  That said, Ascoli Piceno is on the San Benedetto del Tronto–Ascoli Piceno railway, which is a branch of the Adriatic railway.  There is local rail service to some towns in the province.  For rail stations and schedules visit Trenitalia.com

For more information on toursim to the area visit the Ascoli Piceno official website.

Have you been to Ascoli Piceno?  Share your tips and experiences in the comments.

• Need help planning a trip to the Le Marche region?  Click here to see how I can help.

Italo : New Italy Rail Service Takes to the Tracks

I’ve always been a huge fan of train travel in Italy.  In fact, traveling by rail is my favorite way to tour the country.  It’s efficient.  And green. And fast. New lines are always being added.  The cars are comfortable.   Travel times from point to point get shorter and shorter.

Perhaps I’m not being clear.  So, I hope you’ll indulge me for a moment while I shout this from the rooftops….GAWD I LOVE TRAIN TRAVEL IN ITALY (and France).  Thanks, I feel better now.

Up to this point, train travel in Italy has been a government run operation, that company being Trenitalia.

But, not so fast.  There is a new game in town.  A new high-speed rail service owned by none other than Ferrari.  It’s called Italo.

And it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the sleek, modern trains sport a Ferrari red color. The spacious cars with panoramic windows and leather seats, offer built-in TV screens, direct cable TV, and free wifi throughout.  Giddy with excitement I am!  Dare I say, jumping for joy?

Service began on April 28, and last week, Italo made it’s first trip from Rome to Naples, traveling at speeds of 186 MPH, in a mere 70 minutes!

Note : The Rome to Naples train leaves from Tiburtina station, not Termini station.

Currently, the trip on the high-speed Frecciarossa train (which leaves from Termini) is 39€ for second class.  As best I can tell, the lowest price on the new Italo train is 20€ for Smart Class. Me likey.  Me likey alot.

Right now Italo has eight routes, with more planned for the future, which will form a Y-shaped map between Turin (left fork), Venice (right fork) and Naples (bottom of the Y).  Three classes of cars include Club, Prima and Smart.  Cinema cars have large screens and meals are served by smartly-dressed attendants and catered by Eataly.

Current cities served are Milan, Bologna, Florence, Rome and Naples.  Venice, Turin, Padova and Salerno will be added later.

Tickets can be purchased online, at self-service ticket machines or at Casa Italo – part office, part club, which are both at rail stations.  There is also a frequent-rider program called Italo Più.

I think their website is beyond fantastic! Helpful, easy to navigate, prominently featured specials, true to life virtual tours and a ‘best price’ calendar, so if you’re price sensitive, it’s easy to find the best deal.

Let’s just say, if their trains and service are as good as their website, than color me impressed!

Tip: Find cool virtual tours of the different cars, lounge, cinema and Casa Italo here.

I’ve emailed the company to obtain more information about how booking works from the U.S.  I’ll make sure to keep you updated as soon as I get some of my questions answered.

I’m pretty excited about what this means for train travel in Italy.  I think in this case, competition is good, but I am also reserving my judgement until we hear more reports.  So far though, it looks very promising. VERY. PROMISING.

And you bet your bippy I’ll be hopping an Italo train the first chance I get!

Are you as excited as I am? Would you ride the rails in style on Italo?

• Need help deciding on a rail itinerary or booking train reservations for Italy?  Get in touch, I’d love to help!

Scenes from Puglia Italy

I’ve been going through all the photos of my Puglia, Italy travels and I realized I still had so much to tell you about the region.  But, because my travel consulting work has been keeping me busy, I haven’t been able to write as much as I’d like. So instead, I thought I’d tell you more about Puglia in images, rather than words.

I’m hoping the old saying about Italy pictures being worth a thousand words rings true.  Here are some favorites:

Fountain with lovely tiles in Bari

Ornate iron gates

Rustic Menu

Portico in Martina Franca

Beautiful orange clemetines trailing down buildings

Bowls of clementines on the table are a typical dessert

Palm trees against a facade in Alberobello

View of Alberbello and the Trulli rooftops

Clusters of plump inky black olives on the trees

Ubiquitous ocher facade with hanging laundry. Always charming.

Unspoiled beach on the Adriatic Sea

Tiny alleyway in Ostuni

Tending to the olive trees and artichokes

And speaking of artichokes!

Vintage wheels

No shortage of beautiful frescoes and mosaics in the churches

Stolling Bari's Lungomare

A perfect Italian photo op!

Green landscapes blend with the deep blue water

Statue in Ostuni

Pretty Piazza at dusk in Lecce

Peering into an archway into Bari's Old Town

Trani Cathedral at night

Gorgeous setting for an afternoon lunch

Sign in the white town of Ostuni

This menu and courtyard beckoned me to enter

And so did this cute little cafe

Fabulous and delicious food products from Puglia

Deserted pathway in Ostuni

Olive trees are everywhere, even a main square in Lecce

So, are you in love with Puglia yet?  Which is your favorite photo and why?

10 Tips for Having an Authentic Travel Experience in Italy

Rome can be touristy, but it doesn't have to be

I was having a conversation with a potential client the other day who is in the early stages of planning a first trip to Italy.  Since he is Italian-American, he wanted it to be an authentic experience.  As we were talking about possible spots to put on his itinerary, he stated he was thinking of avoiding places like Rome and Florence because they had become too Americanized.

While the authentic experience part was music to my ears, because that’s what I’m all about, it also broke my heart just a bit to think someone would avoid places that have rich history, art and wonderful food, just because they get a bad wrap.

I think it would be a shame to travel all the way to Italy for the first time and perhaps not see the Colosseum or miss out on some wonderful art in Florence.

Don’t get me wrong, if you aren’t interested in ruins or art, and instead choose Tuscany in favor of food, wine and stunning views –  that’s perfectly fine. It’s important to pick places that appeal to you for the right reasons. But to avoid some otherwise lovely, interesting cities simply because of American influence seems a shame to me.

I don’t think the place should determine whether you have an authentic experience – I think it’s what you do and how you choose to spend your time in that place that matters.

It got me thinking of ways to have an authentic experience no matter what large city you may visit.  Here are 10 tips to make it happen.

1.  Don’t avoid the tourist attractions, but do your research and pick a less crowded time to visit.  Obviously, an off-season trip will translate to fewer crowds. When planning your days, break them up by alternating a tourist attraction with something more low-key and/or far removed.  Spread it out so you get a bit of local flavor in between visits to things that might be more Americanized or crowded.  This way you get the best of both worlds.

2.  Before you leave, make it a point to find out what the locals love to do in the areas you’re planning on going.  And go do it!

3. Spend time with a local guide, whether it be to see a historic site, museum or just for a general tour around the area.  Native guides will know stories that others won’t.  They bring a place to life and they can regale stories of the past and will also be a font of knowledge for lesser, local known spots to visit or dine.

4. Get out of the city.  Take a day trip to a lesser-known spot a short car or train ride away.  Perhaps not the one that’s the most popular with other visitors.

5.  Opt for accommodations with local charm, preferably in a neighborhood far enough removed from the city center – but within easy access of things you’d like to see.  Avoid big chain hotels and stay in something smaller, run by locals.  A B&B, an apartment or maybe even a room in a home with a family are all good bets.

Local Roman man painting shutters

6.  When eating out – try to avoid the city center.  There are exceptions, but at the very least, avoid places that have a ‘tourist menu’ or have staff heckling you to enter. Try to eat what and where the locals eat. Don’t seek out spots that proudly list spaghetti and meatballs or fettucine alfredo on their menus, which are Italian-American creations.

7.  Speak the local language when you can.  It will automatically make you feel like you’re far from home.

8.  If you’re a shopper – stay away from the big brands you can easily find at home.  Instead – seek out family owned shops, artisan workshops and smaller boutiques.  Not only will you be shopping with residents, but you’ll often get a peek into time-honored traditions and find one-of-a-kind items.

9.  Skip the taxis.  Walk or take public transport. Nothing makes you feel more like a local than being sandwiched in with neighborhood folk on the bus or metro during rush hour.

10.  Take the time to just stroll around a local neighborhood and pay special attention to what’s happening around you.  This is what’s known as soaking in the atmosphere.  Catch a glimpse of the people on their cell-phones, the shop owner who is sweeping in front of his shop, the man in the photo above just painting his shutters, the locals attending mass in a beautiful church.  That is where you’ll find the real Italy.

How do you ensure you have an authentic experience when you travel?

 Interested in making your trip to Italy or France an authentic one?  Click here to see how I can help!

Italian Wine: Castello Banfi

Touring around Tuscany while tasting Italian wine is a favorite pastime of mine and a popular choice with wine-lovers traveling to the region.  One very well-known and lovely property, located in Montalcino is Banfi, owned by the Mariani family, who are known for bringing an American way of thinking to Montalcino.

I’ve known about and have sampled many a Banfi wine over the years, including their range of Chianti, Chianti Classico and Riserva.  They have over 30 varietals. I was happy to try a few old favorites alongside some that I’ve never sampled before at a Banfi wine tasting dinner.

Ready, set, drink.

I was fascinated and highly engaged by the presentation given by the Banfi wine ambassador, who was in true Italian fashion – charming, witty, interesting and entertaining.

Some fun things I learned about the Banfi family, their property and Tuscan wine:

• Originally Banfi began as a wine importer in New York in 1919, but the family owned vineyard estate in Tuscany wasn’t established until 1978.
• Though the family is Mariani, the Banfi name was a nod to the creator’s Aunt, Theolinda Banfi, who had ties to the Pope. Reportedly, she is buried under Vatican City.
• 40 million year old whale fossils have been found on the property – a testament to the land, rich in clay and calcium on which the vines are planted
• Currently they also have an interest in Bollo and Fontana Candida.
• As well as vineyards in Tuscany, they also have vineyards in Piedmont and have other properties including in Chile.
• The family has been in the wine business for 93 years
• Banfi is the first winery in the world recognized for exceptional Environmental, Social & Ethical Responsibility
• Banfi introduced Lambrusco to the US Market in 1967.  Reunite anyone? Yep, that was and is still them.
• Turns out that Super Tuscan is a made up name, not a an actual Italian wine classification and therefore has no actual restrictions.  It’s describes a blend of Tuscan grapes – usually Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot

During the tasting and dinner with wine pairings that  followed, I had the privilege of tasting a selection of about ten different Banfi wines.  Below are a few of them, along with notes and pairings.

1.  San Angelo Pinot Grigio 2010.  Light straw color, with flavors of pear,peach and anise. Pairs well with fish, white meats.  Great aperitivo.

2.  Centine Rosso 2009.  A value priced Super Tuscan.  Pairs with a wide range of cheese, pasta, pizza, roasts and game

3.  Brunello di Montalcino, 2006 DOCG.  Stellar and complex red, aged for four years, two of those in Slavonian oak.  It’s full-bodied, elegant, intense and luscious.  Deep ruby-red in color with hints of garnet, it tastes of licorice, cassis and black cherry.  Clearly one of the most expensive Tuscan wines.  Enjoy Brunello with game, red meat and aged hearty cheese.

For a similar wine, at a lesser price, try the younger brother Rosso di Montalcino, often referred to as baby Brunello.

4.  Rosa Regale 2o10. A sweet sparkling red wine which is made from 100% Brachetto grapes from the Piedmont region and harvested early in the morning.  It’s a bright cranberry color and tastes of rose and raspberry.  Perfect for an aperitivo or dessert and should be served chilled. Goes well with seafood, cheeses, spicy food and even chocolate.

5.  Floras Moscadello di Montalcino DOC Late Harvest.  An untuous sweet dessert wine with a golden color.  Tastes of raisin, honey and dried-apricots.  Other than dessert, try it with savory appetizers.

Roasted lamb paired with Banfi Brunello di Montalcino

The Banfi estate itself is gorgeous.  The medieval castle, known as Poggio al Mura, ‘walled castle’, has ancient Etruscan roots.  Left in ruins after World War II, the Mariani family restored the castle.  Perched high upon a hilltop, surrounded by green rolling hills and perfect vines, the castle is the perfect setting for wine tours and tastings; or overnight stays in the charming guest rooms at, Il Borgo.

Over 7,000 acres of vines are also littered with fruit, nut and olive trees, all of which play a role in the flavor imparted on the wines.  You can see and hear more about their history and the property in this video tour.

Interested in touring vineyards and tasting wine in Tuscany?  Click here to get in touch, I’d love to arrange something for you!

Obikà Mozzarella Bar

If there is one thing I can’t resist it’s really good cheese.  And mozzarella cheese is definitely at the top of my list.  Not that dense plastic-tasting square lump or pre-shredded crap that you find at supermarkets. Blech. None of that Polly-O string cheese either!

Instead, I’m talking about plump, supple rounds of creamy goodness that are stored in liquid. So white and shiny that you can almost see your reflection in it. Press your finger into the firm flesh and it actually moves – it’s alive. Nothing beats the taste, consistency and nutritional value of real mozzarella cheese, freshly made in Italy.

So, imagine how excited I was to hear about a shrine to all things mozzarella had popped up on Rome’s Campo dei Fiori, back in 2004.  A new restaurant concept known as a mozzarella bar.

Photo Credit : Flickr

It’s called Obikà and they specialize in mozzarella cheese.  Not just any mozzarella cheese either.  Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP, lovingly known as bufala mozzarella. It’s a mouthful, but really just a way of saying that it’s some very high-quality cheese made from the milk of water buffalo owned by selected producers in Paestum and Agro Pontino areas of southern Italy.

Along with mozzarella, Obikà serves typical artisanal products from various regions of Italy.  Salumi consists of Prosciutto Crudo San Daniele, Prosciutto Toscana, Mortadella di Prato and more .  Tasty sides of olives, fresh arugula, cherry tomatoes, roasted vegetables, basil pesto, caponata and artichokes can accompany your tasting.

In most of the locations, you can certainly grab a table, inside or in some cases outside – but part of the fun for me is the bar atmosphere.  I like grabbing a stool at the bar, talking to the folks behind the counter, drooling over all of the fesh ingredients and watching the dishes being prepared.

Trust me when I say on a recent visit, I had a hard time choosing what to have.  I sampled both the fresh and smoked mozzarella.  Both balls arrived on a plate, served on a bed of fresh spinach and arugula. I washed it all down with a glass of Barbera d’Asti.

Smoked and Fresh Bufala Mozzarella at Obika

I couldn’t resist trying some prosciutto, which was also simply presented with the same arugula and cherry tomatoes alongside.  As is should, it melted in by mouth like salty butter.  And I drizzled lots of flavorful Tuscan olive oil right from the bottle on my crusty bread.  It tasted as if I grabbed a handful of grass blades and stuffed them in my mouth.  Yeah, that good.

Prosciutto di Parma from Obika

In the mood for something more substantial? They have a menu full of appetizers, panini, pasta, salads and pizza as well.  The Italian desserts aren’t to be missed and extensive Italian wine list is impressive.

Since opening that first bar in Rome in 2004, they have added additional bars in Rome, Milan, Florence, Fidenza and Palermo and two airport locations - Fiumicino and Malpensa.  Locations outside Italy include London, Tokyo, New York, Los Angeles, Toronto and Istanbul.

Technically, that makes them a “chain” – a type of establishment that I’m usually vehemently opposed to.  But not Obikà.  For some reason, the entire concept, quality, use of imported artisanal products, and the flavor of the food really appeal to me. The mozzarella is made in Italy and imported three times a week, so the cheese you’ll be served is guaranteed to be fresh.

Obikà is one chain I don’t mind recommending and visiting frequently.  Make sure to seek one out next time you’re traveling where they are located and come back and tell me about your experience!

Italian Food : Making Fresh Mozzarella in Italy

Fresh mozzarella cheese tastes simply delicious.  Especially when it’s handmade in small batches in Italy.  In fact, once you try fresh, there is just no turning back. Whether you use it in a Caprese salad, melt it on top of pizza or just eat it plain, nothing can quite compare.

I’ve often wondered how exactly it’s made and thought it would be great fun to watch mozzarella making in action.  As I found out during my recent trip to Puglia, it’s a relatively simple process. One that I got to witness first hand.

Mozzarella gets its name from the Italian word ‘mozzare’ which means to lop off, which is exactly what the mozzarella maker does to make smaller pieces.

A basic overview of the process, which is not meant to be used as a recipe or tutorial to make your own at home, is described below.

In order to make the best mozzarella it’s important to start off with farm fresh milk.  Either cows milk or water buffalo milk (which is what the famous bufala mozzarella is made from) can be used.  The milk is then curdled and drained to eliminate the whey.  The curd is cut up into smaller pieces that are ground up and immersed into hot water.

Using a combination of hands and a stick, the cheese maker stirs and kneads the curds until it becomes a rubbery,  smooth and shiny mass. Once the cheese maker determines this white blob has reached the right consistency, he takes his fingers and ‘lops off’ small pieces which form the cheese.

These shapes can be the familiar round balls, a large braid called a treccia or in this case, tied into little knots called nodina.

The formed cheese is then placed into cold water and soaked in brine where the cheese will absorb just the right amount of salt to make the perfect texture – both creamy and elastic.

The result is of course salty, chewy, semi-soft cheesy goodness which is best eaten within hours of making it for the best flavor, which is why you’ll never find mozzarella which tastes this good outside Italy.

And if you can forgive the odd angle of the video I shot during the process (it was one of my first attempts at video and I’m still learning the ins and outs of camera orientation) you can see the mozzarella maker actually lopping off pieces to form the cheese.

How do you like to eat mozzarella?

Want to learn how to make fresh mozzarella in Italy?  I’d be happy to arrange a mouth-watering excursion for you – just click here to get in touch!

Charming and Unique Accommodations in Puglia

There are no shortage of hotels from which to choose when planning to visit cities in the southern Italy region of Puglia. From Bari to Trani. Brindisi to Lecce. And every city in between.

But in my opinion, much of the region’s charm and character can’t be experienced by booking a typical five-star hotel in one of Puglia’s dynamic and interesting cities.  Instead, it comes from staying in one of the more unique types of accommodation that I would highly recommend.  Here are two of my favorites.

A Masseria

In other areas of Italy this type of accommodation would be known as an agriturismo.  But since Puglia is different from other parts of Italy in so many ways, including language dialects, they are known as masseria (masserie plural).

Many of these fortified farmhouses have been completely restored and can offer a very authentic and homey experience in the region.  Offerings range from both simple and rustic to top-of-the-line and luxurious.

Located in the countryside or near the coast, masserie can be found on working farms among gardens, crops, vineyards and perhaps olive groves. Many harvest their own crops, pick and press their own oil or make wine right on their own property.  Some may allow you to participate, others love to tour you around their property or depending on the time of year, you may just enjoy the fruits of their labor. A perfect spot for food-lovers and those looking for a slow travel experience and a relaxed pace for their vacation. It’s here you can experience true Puglian hospitality, excellent food, gentle breezes and lovely landscapes.

Obviously the quality, amenities, style (either bed-and-breakfast or self-catered) and price will vary, but the good news on that front is there are so many options, the perfect one exists for everyone.  This would be my preferred method of staying and exploring the area.

A Trullo

Clustered in the town of Alberobello Italy, trullo (trulli plural), are unique limestone houses with conical roofs, listed on the UNESCO heritage site.  I read someone’s account of their experience who likened them to hobbit homes, and I think it’s a pretty cute analogy. Wish I’d thought of it.  In recent years, trulli have been restored to house restaurants, boutiques, food shops and of course vacation homes.

Many of those available for rent are very tiny, sparse and rustic – but others have been totally renovated with extra care being given to keep white interior stone walls and arches intact, while still offering a cozy experience.  Again, each particular trullo will vary in the number of rooms and types of amenities.  Some modern and updated versions might include things like air-conditioning, laundry facilities and even wi-fi!

Self-catering apartments, trulli villages, hotels and B&B styles can be found both in and around Alberobello and scattered throughout the Itria Valley. Though you could stay in a trullo in the heavily-touristed Alberobello, you could also opt to rent one outside of town which would give you the trullo experience in a more remote and quiet location.  Trullo in the countryside may even include things like outdoor ovens, swimming pools and bikes for guests’ use.

Need help finding a personalized recommendation for where to stay in Puglia?  Click here to see how I can help!

Italian Language for Travel : Mango Passport Review

Many folks who travel to Italy are often lulled into the false notion that everyone speaks English in Italy. While that may be true of the majority of those in tourism professions in large cities like Rome, Florence, Milan, Venice etc, you won’t find everyone speaking English in many of the smaller towns and villages that I recommend you visit for the most authentic Italy.

It certainly wasn’t the case when I needed directions while driving through the Tuscan countryside.

Would be travelers to Italy are often afraid of taking that first step in planning a trip because they aren’t fluent in the Italian language.  Fear takes over and instead of a fabulous dream vacation to Italy, they wind up squashing their dreams and choosing a safer, English-speaking destination, closer to home.  Florida, California, I’m talking about you.

For the reasons listed above, I’ve always recommended learning at least a little bit of the local langauge before traveling.  You don’t need to be fluent, but arming yourself with a basic understanding of the language, along with a good phrasebook or smartphone translation app, would go along way to making your trip smoother.

And I also like to mention that learning and speaking Italian can be fun!

Nothing beats having a native speaking private tutor for learning Italian, but for those who don’t have access or the desire to learn in that way (or don’t wish to learn that much), Mango Languages has a fabulous option!

I’ve used and recommended their standard language lessons that you can get on-line, and even for free through some participating libraries.  But now they have a new product called Mango Passport.  It’s a downloadable software program, designed specifically for travel.

After downloading the software for the Mango Passport Italian on my Macbook and running through each and every slide from every lesson in an effort to give it a thorough test drive before reviewing it, I’m now happy to report my findings.

Mango Passport Italy Screenshot

Here are the things that I like about it:

• Though there aren’t any pictures to associate with the words, it’s still a nice looking program.  Since you’ll be staring at a computer screen for hours, Mango really took that into consideration and gave it a very appealing look.
• It’s organized very well and gives you a nice combination of topics that all pertain in some way to traveling in Italy like directions, shopping, eating, currency, asking for help, introductions and holding conversations.
• The program is ‘meaty’.  With 10 chapters and 52 lessons, you really get your money’s worth.
• The program is designed by native Italian speakers.  The voices and pronunciation are very clear and easy to understand.
• Grammar and cultural notes are interspersed throughout each lesson.
• Learn at your own pace.  Each lesson or slide can be stopped, started, paused and repeated at any time.
• I had no issues with glitches or hiccups.  It never sputtered, had to be reloaded or crashed.  It runs as smooth as silk (on my Macbook).
• It’s very user-friendly.  Anyone can figure out how to use it.
• The record-playback feature is awesome!  You can record your own voice speaking words or phrases and play it back to hear how you sound. You can also arrange that audio track to play back at the same time as the native speaker’s audio track.  This is a very helpful feature which sets it apart from other programs I’ve tired.

And a few minor suggestions:

• In Italian, there are both formal and informal tenses of the language.  In this program, some of both is taught. If you’re just starting out learning a new language for basic travel, the formal tense would be sufficient.  It could be too confusing to use both and I would have liked to see just the formal tense.  After all if you’re just traveling, it can be assumed you don’t know anyone, yet.
• I wish they had a feature where you could just play the lessons without having to push the space bar or click every time you wish to advance the slide.  Doing it that way does let you go at your own pace, but it also requires that you be in front of the computer and manually advancing the slides in each lesson.  The addition of an automatic playback feature might let you learn while doing other things.  Perhaps they could allow an option for both.

I will also mention that on the initial purchase, I didn’t receive the license code required for download, but this is likely because I had a special code to input instead of just making a regular purchase. But an email and simple phone call to Mango Languages customer service resolved the matter quickly and professionally and I was up and running in no time after that.

It was one of the better experiences I have had with a brand’s customer service department of late – so kudos to them for being so friendly and responsive.

If you think you might be interested in learning Italian, I’ve got some great news!

Mango Languages has been kind enough to give away a free download of the complete Italian program, which also includes an MP3 version for learning on the go.

I’ll be giving it away next month to one lucky Mélange Travel Newsletter subscriber.  Not a subscriber yet?  No worries, you can join here.

And if you don’t like the idea of downloading anything to your computer – Mango is now offering a boxed CD set as a test on Amazon for five languages. Though the Italian version isn’t available yet, the French version is.

Disclosure : Mango Languages gave me a complimentary download of Passport Italian for the purpose of this review.  As always, the opinions contained in my review are my own.