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Best Places to Find Etruscan Ruins in Italy

We visit Italy—especially Tuscany—for the delicious food and wine, and the splendid historical art and architecture from the Romans and the Renaissance.  The Italian countryside holds many treasures as well: ancient ruins from the mysterious Etruscans, the rulers of Italy before the Romans.  Some of these well-preserved city walls and burial tombs date back to the 7^thcentury B.C.  Step back in time and see the jewelry, bronzes, and other artifacts from this still-undiscovered civilization at archaeological museums throughout Tuscany.

For some of the best places to find Etruscan ruins, visit these villages.

Orvieto

Warrior Head at Orvieto's Crocifisso del Tufo

Orvieto was settled in the 8^th or 9^th century B.C.  Because of its wealth from the bronzes and ceramics, it became the Etruscan center known as Velzna in the 6^th century B.C.  Orvieto is filled with about 1200 caves containing passages, quarries, and wells.  You can explore these with one of the Orvieto Underground guided tours available from the Piazza Duomo, 24.  For 5.50 euro and about an hour of your day, you will see two well shafts both 130 feet deep, painted walls, remains of the cement quarry, and how the Etruscans pressed olives with an ancient olive press.

You should also take a walk to the Strada della Stazione to visit the necropolis Crocifisso del Tufo. In the modern town, across from the popular Duomo, an old palazzo has been transformed into a museum for Etruscan artifacts. The Museo Claudio Faina e Museo Civico houses these ancient coins, vases, and bronzes.

Admission is 4.50 euro.  From April to September, the museum is open daily from 9:30 AM to 6:00 PM.  From October to March, the museum is open from Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM.

Cerveteri

Cerveteri is only a short day trip from Rome and a great place to explore Etruscan ruins.  The main necropolis in Cerveteri, Necropolis of Banditaccia, was built between the 9^th and 3^rdcenturies B.C. but these tombs are still not fully excavated.  Archaeologists compare the way the Etruscans designed their tombs to the way an architect plans a city.  This archaeological site is so vast (it spans about six miles) and impressive that it has been added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

Some of the tombs that you should view are the Tomba dei Rilievi.  Built in the 4^th century B.C., this tomb has numerous stuccoes on the walls depicting events, animals, and objects that were used in everyday life.  In the Tomba dei Scudi e delle Sedie, you will find beds with pillows that have been carved from the tufa rock, which were for the men and women buried there.  In the main piazza of Cerveteri, an old castle has been transformed into an Etruscan ruins museum: Museo Nazionale Cerite.  Definitely check it out, especially since admission is free!  The museum is closed on Mondays.

Vetulonia

Entrance to Etruscan Tomb in Vetulonia

During the time of the Etruscans, Vetulonia was one of the most important cities in Maremma.  Located in the valley of Bruna, this city was established in the 7^th century B.C.  The necropolis that was discovered in this area exposed iron rods with a double-headed helix in the center as well as other riches.

Cortona

Pitagora Etruscan Tomb in Cortona

The beautiful town of Cortona has been a popular setting for many writers.  It’s easy to see why: Cortona is perched on the hillside overlooking Lake Trasimeno, and it is home to well-preserved Etruscan ruins. In the town, visit the Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca and marvel at the majestic artifacts from thousands of years ago.  This museum displays a gold fibula, a bronze Snout with a hooked beak and sharp tongue, an Etruscan bronze chandelier, and other artifacts and documents.

Venture into the countryside and walk through the excavated tombs of Grotta di Pitagora, del Sodo, and Sergardi.  You can also locate the defensive walls that once guarded Cortona.

Chiusi

Etruscan Tomb in Chiusi

Chiusi was one of the most powerful cities during the Etruscan age.  Therefore, it only makes sense that some of the best Etruscan ruins are in this ancient city.  Chiusi is home to the Museo Nazionale Etrusco on Via Porsenna, one of the best Etruscan collections in the Mediterranean.  It has numerous ceramics, sculptures, terracotta cinerary urns, and vases.  After you visit the museum, go out into the countryside to see the tombs: Tomba della Pellagrina, Tomba della Scimmia (take note of the wall paintings portraying Etruscan social life), and Tomba del Granduca.

Tarquinia

Etruscan Tomb of the Leopards in Monterozzi, Tarquinia

Tarquinia, like Cerveteri, has numerous impressive tombs left behind by the Etruscans as well as a museum with an extensive collection of artifacts.  The Museo Nazionale Tarquinense is located in the 15^th century Palazzo Vitelleschi.  It contains Etruscan art and objects dating back between the 6^th and 3^rd centuries.  It also houses stone sarcophagi, Corinthian and Attic ceramics, coins and jewelry, bronze mirrors with Etruscan etchings, and the Two-Winged Horses.

About twenty minutes away from the museum is the Monterozzi Necropolis, spanning six kilometers.  Despite the large amount of tombs, only a fifteen are open for viewing (sometimes only one at a time).  These tombs are notable for their painted walls that reveal aspects of life, death, and religious beliefs.  Some of the popular painted tombs are the Tomba dei Giocolieri and the Tomba dei Tori.  If you’re going during the summer months, you might want to take a taxi to these tombs because the sun can become extremely hot and uncomfortable.

Sovana

Etruscan Necropolis Tomba del Sirena, Sovana Italy

In the Fiora River Valley is the quiet little village of Sovana.  You will find the traditional Etruscan tombs: Tomba del Sileno, Tomba del Sirena, Tomba Pisa, and Tomba Pola.  But you will also discover one of the most incredible mausoleums at the Tomb of Ildebranda, which is at the foot of the village.  This tomb is part of the Citta del Tufo Archaeological Park.  (If you want to visit another archaeological park, take a half hour drive south to the Vulci Archaeological Park.)

However, the most extraordinary part of Sovana is the “sunken roads” nearby.  These roads, or via cave, were carved through the volcanic rock, making forty-foot walls, which are now covered in moss.  It is a truly magical experience to wander through these roads while contemplating how these mysterious Etruscans contrived these architectural masterpieces.

What is your favorite place to go to find Etruscan ruins?  Museums or tombs? What are your favorite types of ruins?

Written by : Laura Photo Credits : Nixdorf / Almare / GDelhey / Xavier de Jaureguiberry / PhillipC / AlMare / SidVics

Susan Van Allen, Venetian Wine Bars and Book Giveaway

By now it’s no secret that author Susan Van Allen’s ’100 Places in Italy Every Woman Should Go’ is resonating with female travelers and Italophiles all over the globe.  I’ll admit that I couldn’t wait to get my hands on a copy.  I was convinced that I would love it.  I mean c’mon, Italy and Travel – what’s not for me to love?

Susan has graciously offered up an excerpt from the book on one of my favorite topics.  Wine and wine bars in Venice, Italy.  And stay tuned, because after Susan talks about wine and Venice, we are going to offer up not just her book for a giveaway – but a total of four books about Italy travel.  More details about the giveaway after Susan’s words on Venetian wine bars.

Here’s Susan:

In the place that does everything differently, here in Venice wine bars are called bacari, the snacks (including fab seafood) are called cichetti, and a drink of wine is called an ombra, which means shade.

That’s because back in the old days, wine sellers in San Marco would move their carts to the shadow of the Campanile to keep their wine cool, and workers would take a wine and panini break there. In warmer months, you’ll want a spritz—sparkling water and Aperol or Campari.

Here are a few favorites:

• Cantinone Già Schiavi, Ponte San Trovaso

On a quiet canal in the Dorsoduro sestiere, near a gondola workshop, this classic family-run spot is where old-time regulars go elbow-to-elbow with foreigners. I had my first baccala mantecato (whipped baccala on toast) here and they’ve hooked me ever since.

• Bancogiro, Campo San Giacometto di Rialto 122, open 11-9, closed Sunday night and all day Monday

On the east side of the Rialto Bridge, this converted medieval bank is a comparative newcomer on the bacari scene. You can sit at outside tables for a Grand Canal view and enjoy innovative cichetti, like carpaccio di branzino (raw sea bass).

• Cantina Do Mori, Calle dei Do Mori 429 (San Polo), closed Sunday

One of the oldest in Venice, here you perch on a wine barrel with copper pots hanging over you, and have a selection of 600 wines to choose from, along with fabulous cichetti such as braised baby artichokes with lemon.

TIP: Lessons of the Vine is a new offering of wine tasting classes in Venice which are absolutely entertaining as well as informative, and well-priced. The wines and complementary antipasti presented change with the seasons and are adapted to the tastes of the travelers. This is a wonderful first stop for visitors, an enjoyable evening to orient them so they can thoroughly enjoy the bacari of Venice, and wines throughout their Italian vacation.

***

Now for the details on the awesome giveaway.  Susan’s publisher, Travelers’ Tales, has decided to offer up four great books for a giveaway. 100 Places in Italy Every Woman Should Go, Travelers’ Tales Italy : True Stories of Life on the Road, Travelers’ Tales Tuscany : True Stories and 30 Days in Italy : True Stories of Escape to the Good Life.

Just to make it interesting – and give you more chances to win, I’ve decided to have a little fun with this contest, which will run until midnight EST on August 27th, 2010.  Here is how you can win:

• Leave a comment on this post for a chance to win Susan’s book, 100 Places in Italy Every Woman Should Visit.  On August 28th, I’ll pick one winner using a random number generator.
• Become a Facebook fan (or LIKE my fan page)  to win a copy of either of the Travelers’ Tales titles – Tuscany True Stories or True Stories of Life on the Road.  On August 28th, I’ll select two Facebook fans using the random number generator and each will receive one of the books, not both. Already a Facebook fan?  Congrats! You’re already entered!
• Use this link to subscribe to my free monthly newsletter to win a copy of 30 Days in Italy : True Stories of Escape to the Good Life.  On August 28th, using the random number generator, I’ll select one winner from my newsletter subscriber list.  Already a newsletter subscriber? Bonus, you’re already entered!

All four winners will be announced on the My Mélange Facebook fan page.

Thanks so much to Susan Van Allen and  Travelers’ Tales for the great Italy content and awesome giveaway! Good Luck!

——-

It not only happens that Susan recommends Lessons of the Vine, but I partner with them as well. For more information on this special Venice wine tasting or to book, feel free to contact me.

Full disclosure : Travelers’ Tales provided me with a free review copy of each of the titles involved in the giveaway.

Famous Gardens in Italy

Visiting museums will teach you about the culture and history of a region, especially in Italy with its Renaissance influences.  You can see the talent of artists and architects from their paintings and buildings, their masterpieces.  However, by walking through some of the beautifully constructed gardens of Italy, you experience the same rich history and splendor of a museum, only takes place under the bright blue skies with fresh air and bubbling fountains.  Here are five gardens in Italy worth visiting!

Boboli Gardens

Beyond the Medici-owned Palazzo Pitti in Florence are the magnificent Boboli Gardens.   The grounds were originally designed by Niccolò Tribolo, but were added to over the centuries.  With its well-planned gardens and sculptures, the Boboli Gardens served as the model for all European royal gardens.  After spending an afternoon walking through the winding paths, you will understand why!

Once you enter the gardens (through either the Pitti Palace or the Porta Romana entrance), you will encounter the Amphitheatre, in which concerts are still held today.  Here, a huge ancient Egyptian obelisk statue marks your entrance into this paradise within the busy city.  Further down, explore The Large Cave, which consists of three “caves” embellished with decorations of carved stalactites and sculptures by Michelangelo and Giambologna.  Michelangelo carved the Four Prisoners into the walls of one of these smaller caves in La Grotta Grande.  Today, only copies of these original sculptures remain.

As you wander along the hilly paths, take a stroll down the Cyprus-lined Viottolone (the central avenue) to the Piazzale dell’Isolotto.  A small island full of lemon trees and flowers sits in the middle of a large basin in the Piazzale dell’Isolotto.  Neptune’s Fountain also rises from this basin. With all of the walking, you’ll be sure to work up an appetite.  Don’t be afraid to bring snacks or wine because visitors are allowed to picnic in the gardens.

The Boboli Gardens open at 9 am and close about one hour before sunset.  Admission costs three euro, and tickets can be purchased at the entrance to the Pitti Palace.

Villa Gamberaia

Villa Gamberaia is located on the Settignano hillside outside of Florence and is regarded as one of the most perfect gardens in Italy.  It was built in the seventeenth century by the Florentine Zanobi Lapi who included many elements of a classic Tuscan garden: cypress allie, a bowling green, a nymphaeum, grotto gardens, woods, formal gardens, and a lemon terrace.

The high altitude of this villa offers splendid views over Florence and the Arno Valley, and the gardens of Villa Gamberaia have been praised by such authors as Edith Wharton and Charles Latham.  Villa Gamberaia is open daily from 9 am to 6 pm.  Admission for the villa and the gardens is ten euro.

Villa Carlotta

If you’re a true gardener, Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo (on Lake Como) is the place for you.  It was built at the end of the seventeenth century by Milanese Giorgio Clerici, but it was under the ownership of Gian Battista Sommariva that made it the gem it is today.  He turned it into a haven for famous pieces of art and added the renowned romantic garden.

The villa eventually came into hands of Princess Marianne of Nassau, who gave it to her daughter Carlotta as a wedding present.  Carlotta’s husband, Georg II of Saxen-Meiningen revamped the garden with his botanical knowledge, and helped spark the villa’s sterling reputation for its beautiful gardens.  Today, the gardens include over 150 types of flowers in the spring: rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, to name a few.

Cedars, sequoias, and tropical plants also thrive in this garden.  As you continue walking through the paths, you will venture into the Rock Gardens, Ferns Valley, Rhododendrons’ Wood, Bamboos’ Garden, and the agriculture tools’ museum.  Pack a small cooler with your favorite Italian goodies and prepare to enjoy a romantic picnic in one of the designated picnic areas.

Villa Carlotta is open from the end of March to the middle of October from 9 am to 6 pm.  For students, admission is 4.50 euro; adult admission is 8.50 euro.

Villa d’Este

If you’re looking for a day-trip from Rome, visit Villa d’Este in Tivoli.  Often called “The Garden of Miracles,” this garden has made it onto the UNESCO world heritage list.  All of the structures and elements of design have some meaning or significance to ancient Rome, the Renaissance, or the sixteenth century political struggles with the Church of Rome.  While the other gardens are known for their botanical beauty, this garden is known for its amazing fountains and waterworks.

At the center of Villa d’Este is the Fountain of the Dragon.  The fountain consists of four dragon-heads spouting water in a cave between two stairways and two dolphin-and-shell-shaped pools.  The statue of Hercules is also located in this fountain.  Down the Avenue of 100 Fountains is the famous Fountain of Tivoli.

But the most entertaining fountain of Villa d’Este is the Fountain of the Water Organ.  This water-and-air-powered musical fountain is the engineering of 2000-year-old water technology!  The fountain’s plumbing system eroded over the years, ruining its musical nature, but it was saved by British organ specialists who studied and actually rebuilt a similar plumbing structure just to figure out how to fix the original fountain!

The gardens open at 8:30 am and close one hour before sunset.  They are closed on Mondays.  Admission is ten euro.

Villa Melzi Gardens

Located in Bellagio, the Villa Melzi Gardens are a beautiful way to sightsee on Lake Como.  As opposed to the traditional Tuscan and Italian gardens, Villa Melzi Gardens  are proper English-style gardens.  The pathways wind through the rolling shores of Lake Como, offering breathtaking views.  Be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes because there’s a lot to see at Villa Melzi.

The Oriental Garden contains a water-lilies pool and exotic Nippon-acer plants.  At the opposite end of the garden, the Bamboos Grove presents corresponding exotic species.  Walk along the Plant-Tree Drive, which are shaded paths along the lake.  The branches of the trees have been pruned into an umbrella-shape, which give some shelter from the hot afternoon sun.  At the end of this drive is the terrace that overlooks the lake.  A water-lilies pool and statues decorate this terrace.

Further down the path, you can take another break to cool down in the Chapel that will dazzle you with its neoclassical sculptures and carvings.  And don’t forget to check out the Greenhouses and Rocky Garden.  Also located in the gardens is a small museum that used to be the greenhouse for citrus trees during the winter months.  It now houses artifacts from the Napoleonic era.

Make sure you have your camera ready for the Kiosk Zone, which used to be the former tennis grounds.  A beautiful gazebo sits on the edge of the shore, allowing you to take a moment to marvel at the beautiful surroundings.

Villa Melzi Gardens are open from late March to late October.  Admission is six euro.

What are your favorite gardens to visit in Italy?

Written by: Laura Photo Credits: ingorrr / mikeshdesign / spigoo / ingorr / MartinHapl

Florentine Food Specialties

If you’re a fan of beans, grilled meats, rustic Italian bread—eating it plain, or dipping it in olive oil—and wine, you will also be a fan of the food of the Tuscan region, particularly Florence. Traditional dishes of Florence are simple yet bursting with flavor.  They originated from basic recipes concocted by the poor families of the region who needed to make use of the resources they had, and who did not waste anything.  (Several delicious dishes—panzanella, ribollita, and pappa al pomodoro—derived from this method of “recycling food.”)

In Florence, dinnertime (as with other meals) is not a rushed occasion, and for the number of courses served for dinner, a long and relaxing dinner is best.  The nice thing about a lengthy dinner is that it allows you to taste a bit of all the Florentine dishes.  Dinner begins with the Antipasto.  This starter course usually consists of a type of sliced salami ranging from prosciutto to soppressata, and crostini.  Crostini di fegato , with a spread made of chicken or goose liver, capers, anchovies, onions, butter, and broth, is the most common of these canapés.

After the antipasto, the primi piatti, or first course is served.  With the first course, you have the option of choosing a soup (most of which contain stale bread and beans), pasta, gnocchi, polenta, and risotto.

Ribollita

Although it is simple, ribollita is one of Florence’s most popular specialties.  This hearty soup is made from cannellini beans, various vegetables, red cabbage, and chunks of stale bread.  Making ribollita is actually a long process—approximately three days to be exact.  The soup begins as traditional minestrone with vegetables and beans.  The stale bread is added to the leftovers on the second day, and the whole pot is re-boiled (giving the soup its name) and served on the third day.

Pappa al Pomodoro

Another one of Florence’s notable soups is pappa al pomodoro, which is a bread and tomato soup.  Like the ribollita, this dish came about because families did not want to waste leftover bread.  This soup consists of tomatoes, bread, garlic, basil, and olive oil.  Tomatoes did not appear in the original recipe because they had yet to be introduced to Europe.  This original bread-mush was used as an early baby food.

Panzanella

If you’re not in the mood for soup but still want to taste the flaky Italian bread, try the panzanella, or stale-bread-salad.  “Stale bread” may not sound very appetizing, but when paired with the other ingredients, you’ll definitely ask for more.  The traditional salad is made with fresh vegetables, fresh tomatoes, and stale bread.  It is then seasoned with basil, olive oil, vinegar, and a dash of salt and pepper.  Other variations of panzanella include a mixture of lettuce, white or red wine, capers, anchovies, celery, carrots, red onion, cucumber, tuna, parsley, mint, bell peppers, lemon juice, and garlic.

Pappardelle

Pappardelle is one of Florence’s most popular pasta dishes for the primi piatti.  The pasta used for this dish is thicker spaghetti, which is placed over hare sauce and then mixed in to coat the strands of pasta.  The pasta is then seasoned with porcini mushrooms, meat sauces, artichokes, or whatever else the cook chooses.

Once you are finished with your primi piatti, it is time to move onto the secondi piatti, or second course.  The secondi piatti is the main course, the bulk of the dinner.  These dishes are sometimes served with side dishes of ceci all’olio (seasoned chickpeas), fritto miso (fried vegetables), and fagioli all’uccelletto (beans boiled and fried in tomato sauce and oil).  In the secondi piatti, you’ll find meat, chicken, fish and seafood.

Bistecca alla fiorentina

When you visit Florence, ordering the bistecca alla fiorentina is a must!  This T-bone steak has gained recognition as one of Florence’s greatest dishes.  However, any steak cannot simply transform into the bistecca alla fiorentina; this Florentine specialty is so distinct because it is a special cut of Chianina beef.  This thick cut of beef is grilled over a wood or charcoal fire and seasoned with salt, pepper, and olive oil.  What also separates this steak from others is the fact that it is cooked “undone,” meaning it is only slightly cooked.  The inside of the steak must remain tender and pink, while the outer layer is grilled and crispy.  Now, if you do order the bistecca alla fiorentina, you may want to consider sharing it with your companion since these steaks tend to be huge, but definitely full of flavor.

Trippa alla fiorentina

As you peruse the menus in a Florence trattoria or osteria, you will notice that tripe frequently makes an appearance.  Tripe, or cow’s stomach, is a popular ingredient in Florentine cooking.  It is used in traditional dishes (trippa alla fiorentina) and in sandwiches (lampredotto).  (I have a friend who rarely eats red meat, but even she raved about the lampredotto sandwiches!) You may be tentative to try the cow stomach, but after you try the trippa alla fiorentina, you may just change your mind.  This dish is made by sautéing the tripe with olive oil, chopped onion, and tomatoes.  Before it is served, it is topped with freshly grated parmesan cheese.

Pollo alla fiorentina

If you prefer chicken to red meat and cow stomach, opt for the pollo alla fiorentina.  This savory dish consists of breaded chicken breasts covered in a sauce of spinach, onion, celery, cream cheese, paprika, and garlic.  And of course, the dish is topped with parmesan cheese.

Casseruola alla fiorentina

The Italians are known for their exquisite pasta dishes.  So if you didn’t get your pasta-fix with the primi piatti, the casseruola alla fiorentina will fulfill your craving.  This casserole begins with covering pasta or noodles with a sauce of spinach, cream of mushroom soup, garlic, tarragon, and marjoram.  Bits of sausage are thrown into the mix as well, and then the whole casserole covered with an egg and ricotta mixture.  Many Florentines like to serve this dish at a cool temperature during the warm summer months.

By the end of a typical Florentine dinner, you will be happily stuffed from the night’s gourmet dishes.  But even though your hunger may be satiated, you must still experience some of the region’s delectable homemade desserts.

Schiacciata alla fiorentina

Schiacciata alla fiorentina is sure to satisfy your sweet tooth.  This dessert is a sweet sponge cake that is filled with cream, icing, or chocolate cream.  It is then drizzled with icing sugar.  Sciacciata alla fiorentina is most popular in February during the festival of Carneval, but you can enjoy this light and tasty sponge cake anytime!

Schiacciata con l’uva

For another sweet dessert, try the schiacciata con l’uva (sweet grape bread).  This sweet bread is made by sprinkling fresh grapes with sugar and then baking them between two layers of dough.  It is seasoned with olive oil and rosemary.

Castagnaccio

If you’re a fan of nuts, castagnaccio is the dessert for you.  This chestnut cake is made from chestnut flour!  Pine nuts, raisins, and rosemary leaves give this cake its sweet flavor.

Written by: Laura Photo Credits: talkoftomatoes / Robin Locker / thepinkpeppercorn / alexandra’s /

What’s your favorite Florentine specialty?

Five Castles in Sicily

For your next visit to Italy, why not step back in time with a trip to Sicily.  This island (the largest in the Mediterranean) perfectly captures the essence of medieval Europe with its historical churches, temples, and castles.

Because of its location in the Mediterranean, Sicily has been cultivated by several different cultures throughout the ages.  It boasts influences from Greek, Roman, Arab, Norman, Spanish, and French dominance in its art and architecture, but especially its castles, of which there are over 200.

Whether or not you’re a history-buff, visiting the castles in Sicily is a great way to experience the culture and learn about the unique history of this island.  Here are five castles that should make an appearance on your itinerary!

Castello a Mare

Castello a Mare, or the Sea Castle, is located in Palermo, the chief town of Sicily.  The Arabs first used this castle as an outpost to protect the harbor of Palermo, but it later became a prison under the Bourbon dynasty in 1800.

Unfortunately, in the late nineteenth century, Castello a Mare reached its end when Palermitans ravished the castle, pilfering and stripping bricks and supplies to build their own homes.  Today, all that remains of the castle is the gatehouse, the tower, and the skeleton of the moat that once protected it.

This castle remains a well-kept secret from tourists, especially since it is undergoing restoration and is not always open to the public.  However, seeing the historic remains of this castle is worth the experience.  Getting there is simple too: from the Via Roma or Teatro Massimo district, follow Via Cavour to Via Crispi, and the castle lies just beyond the grassy field.

Castello di Caccamo

Perched on a steep cliff overlooking the San Leonardo River Valley is Sicily’s largest and best-conserved castle: Castello di Caccamo.  Built by the Normans in the early Middle Ages, this castle had a significant role in Sicilian history as it served as a refuge after Baron’s revolt in 1160-61.

Over the years, it has been passed through the hands of several families—Chiaramonte, de Prades, and Amato—gaining new additions and expansions in the process.  Under the Amatos, Castello di Caccamo became the palace that it is today.  Just outside the gates, volunteers depict medieval life by dressing up and practicing the traditional trades in small medieval houses.  If you speak some Italian, these volunteers are more than happy to fill you in on the history of the castle.

Once inside the castle walls, visitors can explore the stables, auditorium, court chapels, the keep, prisons, the “Conspiracy Room”, and the Arms room.  Castello di Caccamo is open on weekdays and Saturdays from 9:00AM to 1:00PM and then again from 3:00PM to 8:00PM.

If you want a more involved tour of the castle, make an appointment with the Cultural Association Sicilia e Dintorni, which is located at the entrance of the castle.  (You can also call in advance to make a reservation: 0 91 812 13 12)  The tour starts with Castello di Caccamo and then ventures to the art-filled Mother Church of the Norman age.

After these two sites, the tour stops for lunch at one of the local restaurants and then continues the journey to the Church of San Benedetto alla Badia.  Be prepared to go sans shoes to avoid damaging this church’s delicate tile floor.  Before heading to the last attraction—the Museum of Collections of Instruments, Tools & Utensils—guests are given free time to talk with the local craftsmen and shop around.

Castello di Milazzo

Located on the Milazzo Peninsula is the Castello di Milazzo.  The town of Milazzo is a product of Greek colonization, but also displays influences of Roman and Arab rule.  Castello di Milazzo was built to protect the harbor to the Tyrrhenian Sea under the command of Swabian ruler Frederick II.

This castle served as the meeting place for the Sicilian Parliament in 1295 and was more recently deemed an Italian National Monument.  It is open during the week from 9:30AM to 12:30PM and 3:30PM to 6:30PM.  Even though the castle is closed during siesta, you can still walk through the inner courtyards.  Because of its location on a rocky hilltop, the castle and its courtyards offer panoramic views in all directions.  You can see the mystical Aeolian Islands as well as Europe’s largest volcano Mt. Etna on a clear day.

Castello di Donnafugata

On the southern tip of Sicily in Ragusa lies one of the island’s most notable castles: Castello di Donnafugata.  This castle has made an appearance in a few famous films such as Kaos.  It was built during the mid-seventeenth century, but its façade was altered in the twentieth century with the direction of Corrado Arezzo de Spuches, the Baron of Donnafugata.

These alterations introduced several variations and styles of architecture to the castle including Venetian Gothic and renaissance.  Only the first floor of the castle is open to the public, but you can see the Hall of Coat of Arms, which has all of the family crests painted on the walls, the Hall of Mirrors, and the billiards room to name just a few.  If it’s a nice day outside, purchase a ticket to the park and explore the gardens filled with Mediterranean plants and fig trees, the stone maze, the artificial grottoes, and the Coffee House.

The castle is open from Tuesday to Saturday from 9:00AM to 2:00PM.  On Sundays, it is open from 9:00AM to 3:50PM.  Admission to the castle and the park is 6€.  For just the castle, it is 4€.  For just the park, it is 2.50€.

After all of the walking and picture-taking, you may find yourself famished at the end of the tour.  Luckily, there is a little restaurant at the entrance to Castello di Donnafugata to satiate your hunger.  Trattoria Al Castello Donnafugata began as a small café but grew with the increasing tourism to the castle.  Here, you will find delicious homemade, or casalinga, dishes for a reasonable price.  A four-course meal including wine is about 25€ per person.

Castello di Falconara

Visiting the other castles allows you to see how the Italian nobility lived, but visiting Castello di Falconara allows you to experience how the Italian nobility lived!  This castle, which once served as a breeding area for falcons, came under the ownership of the Chiaramonte-Bordonaro family who opened the castle for public use.  Included in this “public use” is lodging!

Currently, Castello di Falconara houses 35 guests, offering several types of accommodations: exclusive use of the castle, bed and breakfast rooms, and the apartment. Imagine sleeping under the same roof, in the same rooms, as the Italian nobility.  All of these accommodations have access to the beautiful sandy beaches.  For more information, visit icastelli.

Have you ever visited one of Sicily’s Castles?  Share your experience in the comments.

Written by : Laura Photo Credits : Wikipedia / Jason Sansone / Salvatore.Freni / WikiMedia

Free (or Cheap) in Venice

It’s great to be able to take some time off and experience the beauty and culture of vacation destinations like Venice, Italy. Unfortunately, a trip to Venice can really take a toll on your wallet. And let’s face it, during these economic times it’s really best to avoid enormous expenses. But the trip of a lifetime doesn’t have to break the bank; if you go to the right places it’s possible to immerse yourself in a priceless experience while avoiding hefty price tags.

Piazza San Marco

Even if it did cost an arm and a leg, the Piazza San Marco would still be a must-see on your Venetian vacation plan. Fortunately, checking out this impressive square is absolutely free.

The Piazza San Marco, also known as St. Mark’s Square, is one of the world’s greatest squares. Nicknamed the ‘drawing room of Europe’, this landmark is very popular with tourists, photographers, and pigeons (that you are forbidden to feed) so it can get a bit crowded, but the vast size of the Square alleviates any claustrophobic tendencies. It originated in the 9^th century and was enlarged to its present size and shape in 1177. The square itself is composed of a complex geometric pattern of brickwork, designed by the Venetian architect Andrea Tirali in 1723.

The Piazza San Marco also offers other attractions, like The Doge’s Palace, St. Mark’s Basilica and St. Mark’s Clock-tower. It is also a common location for many of Venice’s festivals and celebrations.

Be cautious when visiting the Piazza between late September and April, because of a phenomenon called Acqua Alta, where water levels in the area can rise and overflow into the square. When this happens St. Mark’s Square looks a little more like St. Marks swimming pool, but don’t let it put a damper on your sightseeing plans.

The Grand Canal

The Grand Canal, which is about 2.5 miles long, is the main aquatic thoroughfare in central Venice. Its banks are lined with more than 170 gorgeous palazzi, most from the 13^th and 18^th century.

Most people are tempted to take a gondola to get the “authentic” Italian experience, but gondolas can get very expensive. You can save money by taking one of Venice’s vaporettos (water buses), preferably during the evening to avoid a crowd.

You can also see the canal for free if you view it from the many bridges that cross it. Some prime examples include the Ponte di Scalzi, Rialto Bridge, Accademia Bridge, and the newest Ponte della Constituzione (Constitution Bridge). Though it entails more walking on your part, this option also gives you the added view of the architecture of some of Venice’s bridges.

Churches

Though they may not immediately come to mind as tourist attractions, churches are a great place to check out for architecture and artwork. Another great thing about the churches in Venice is many of them offer free admission. If attending a service it would  not be acceptable to wander around taking pictures. Proper attire and behavior are a must. If you are prone to wearing short-shorts and belly shirts – leave them at home. Some free churches of interest include:

• Basilica di San Marco

Built to house the bones of Saint Mark, the Basilica di San Marco is filled with elaborate sculptures, artwork, and religious objects. The exterior boasts 5 large domes, Byzantine architecture, and very lavish decorations. Inside the church you have the opportunity to view stunning gold mosaics, which are best seen between 11:30 am and 12:30 pm while the church is illuminated by sunlight. It is polite to leave a donation, but entrance to the Basilica is technically free of charge.  If you want to visit certain areas, however, like the San Marco Museum, the Treasury, or the Golden Altarpiece, you may have to purchase tickets.

• Santa Maria della Salute

The Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute is a massive eight-sided church that sits on more than 100,000 pilings on the edge of the Grand Canal. Every gorgeous inch was built in the 1600s as a “thank-you” to the Virgin Mary for saving Venice from the plague in 1630. Admission is free from 9:00 am to noon and from 3:00 pm to 5:30 pm. There is, however, a small charge to visit the sacristy.

• San Giorgio dei Greci

San Giorgio dei Greci, also known as the Greek Orthodox Cathedral of Saint George, is the oldest church of the Orthodox Diaspora. Considered the most historically significant church of the Orthodox faith, this church is also thought to be one of the most impressive and ornate. Admission to the church is free, though there is a fee to visit the Byzantine icon museum.

Window Shopping

Every penny-saver loves some good window-shopping. Though it may not be free to actually buy things at the shops in Venice, there’s nothing to stop you from just looking. Some of the places you might want to browse include:

• San Marco area: for high fashion and luxury goods
• Mercerie shopping streets: for everything from clothing to handmade stationery to Murano glass and art supplies
• Cannaregio and Strada Nova: for souvenir stores and everyday shops
• Rialto Bridge: for the fresh food and fish market

Music

If you’re looking to give your ears a treat, or to simply satisfy your music enthusiasm then there are a few free things that will delight music lovers:

• Museum of Music

Located near the Renaissance Scuolo Grande di San Rocco art museum is another, smaller museum which offers free admission. Also known as Museo della Musica, the Museum of Music houses a collection of instruments and an exhibit on violin making. In another exhibit, called Antonio Vivaldi e il suo tempo, the museum gives an interesting look at the life of the Venetian composer Antonio Vivaldi.

• Free Concerts

They may not be widely advertised but if you check flyers and posters in the caffés and bars throughout Venice, you can find free concerts taking place throughout the city. Some of these free concerts may be listed on the website MusicinVenice.com.

There is also a day-long, city-wide event called Venice’s Suona Festival, during which the squares in Venice host free concerts.  Find more info at the Official Venice Suona Festival website.

Wandering Around and Getting Lost

Last, but certainly not least, is getting lost. This is completely free and it can often lead to the most interesting and intimate experiences. It’s called a vacation for a reason. You don’t have to map out every single moment. Take a breather from all that planning and take a stroll off the beaten path. Get off the main streets, walk the zig-zag maze of calle, get out of the hustle and bustle, up and down over footbrides and just immerse yourself in the Venetian culture and surroundings. Not everything worth seeing is printed on a map. You may find something unique and breathtaking that you never would have found otherwise. And, if your entire objective is just to get lost, then you won’t have to be so stressed out about trying not to.

Written by : Kelly Whelan  Photo Credits: Aaron Kor / Robin Locker / Christopher Chan / goodimages / kh1234567890 /DennisSHurd

50 Italy Fun Facts

1. Italy has three active volcanoes: Vesuvius, Etna, and Stromboli.
2. Italy is often called the Bel Paese, which mean beautiful country.
3. Italy is home to the largest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites – more than 40.
4. Italy has 20 regions and 6 islands.
5. Italy speaks a national language, which was based on the Tuscan dialect, but each region still speaks its own dialect.
6. The Vatican is a separate sovereign nation, its own country.
7. Italy is slightly larger than Arizona.
8. The thermometer is an Italian invention.
9. The piano hails from Italy.
10. With almost 40 million visitors, Italy is the fourth most visited country in the world.
11. The average Italian consumes 26 gallons of wine a year.
12. The typewriter is an Italian invention.
13. Italy did not become a united country until 1861.
14. The Italian Wolf is considered the national animal of Italy.
15. Italy has over 3,000 museums.
16. The national sport of Italy is soccer (known as football outside of America).
17. Italy’s national dish is pasta.
18. Napoleon spent his first exile on the Italian island of Elba.
19. The vespa scooter was invented in Italy in 1946.
20. Italy has the most hotel rooms of any European nation.
21. Everyday 3,000€ gets tossed into the Trevi Fountain.
22. Italy’s national flower is the Lily.
23. Sixty percent of the world’s art treasures are in Italy.
24. Opera was created in Italy.
25. Bubonic Plague killed one-third of the Italian population in the 14^th century.
26. Italy has won the World Cup four times.
27. The average consumption of pasta in Italy is 25 kg per person per year.
28. The violin and the cello were both invented in Italy.
29. Italian pizza originated in Naples during the 18th century.
30. Italy holds the Guiness record for having the most elevators.
31. The national bird of Italy is Bluebird.
32. Italy is famous for its sports cars like Ferrari, Alfa Romeo, Maserati and Lamborghini.
33. The oldest European university in continuous operation is the University of Bologna, founded in 1088.
34. Italians invented optical eye glasses.
35. Italy has been making wines for over 2800 years.
36. The oldest film festival in the world, beginning in 1932, is the Venice Film Festival.
37. Italy has more famous fashion designers than any other country.
38. Many of Shakespeare’s plays were set in Italy, including Romeo and Juliet from Verona.
39. Carabinieri uniforms are designed by Valentino.
40. The highest point in Italy is Mont Blanc, in the alps at 15,770 feet.
41. The longest river in Italy is the Po.
42. Italy is the largest wine-producing country in the world.
43. Italy has hosted the Olympic Games three times.
44. The patron saint of Italy is Saint Francis of Assisi.
45. The national Italian airline is called Alitalia.
46. The largest white truffle in a half century weighing over 3 pounds,was unearthed near Pisa, Italy.
47. Italy is home to some of the world’s greatest composers, like Vivaldi, Rossini, Verdi and Puccini.
48. The espresso machine was invented in Italy.
49. Venice has over 400 footbridges.
50. The oldest olive tree in Italy, in Umbria is reportedly over 1700 yrs old.

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Did I miss any?  Do you have any to add to the list?  Tell me in the comments!

Five Italian Castles of the Aosta Valley

When I think of Italy, I usually think of fine wine and food, art history, churches and monuments—but majestic castles typically do not come to mind. Yet throughout Italy, there are so many castles to see! One area that seems to be littered with castles is the Aosta Valley, located on the eastern side of the top of the boot.  Each castle tells a story.  Some were originally constructed for protection from the neighboring French and Swiss and others were opulent residences. Whatever the reason, we should be thankful to have such great structures still standing.  Here are five worth a visit.

Verrés Castle

Verrés Castle has been perched on a cliff overlooking the river Evancon since 1390. It was used as a method of defense during the Middle Ages, equipped with buttresses, embrasures, and turrets for cannons. Inside, there is a grand staircase, stone vaults, and quite a few fireplaces. It was rescued by Piedmont intellectuals who were interested in preserving the castle and all of its medieval history. Because of these people, today we are able to explore this well-conserved structure. The castle also annually serves as the backdrop for the Historic Carnival of Verrés, which includes an entertaining re-enactment of the story of the Countess Caterina of Challant.

Issogne Castle

Issogne Castle has a long history and has been restored a number of times.  First in 1400 by Ibleto of Challant; In 1490 and 1510 by a prior of Sant’Orso George of Challant who turned it into a luxurious residence for his cousin, Margaret de la Chambre. In 1872, the artist Vittorio Avondo restored Issogne Castle again and then in 1907 donated it to the state so that everyone could enjoy its majestic beauty. In the front hall, there are frescoes of everyday life; a tailor’s workshop, a delicatessen, a pharmacy, a butcher, guards, and a grocer market. The dining room, the kitchen, the Baron’s Hall, the Chapel, the Countess’s room, the “King of France’s” room, and the “Knights of St. Maurice” room are all open to the public year round.

Forte di Bard

Forte di Bard was a garrison for soldiers during Theodoric’s reign in the 6^th century. There are also documents from 1034 referencing the fort—one of the oldest references to a castle in the Aosta Valley. In 1242, it was taken over by the Savoy family. Forte di Bard was integral in thwarting Napoleon Bonaparte’s French artillery advance into Italy. For two weeks, the army could not seize the fort, although the town of Bard was not protected from the French. After this span of time, the fort fell and had to surrender, freeing the French Army to move further past Bard. In 1830 the fort was reconstructed from its Napoleonic encounter, but has only recently (2006) opened to the public as the Museum of the Alps. In the summertime, Forte di Bard also hosts musical and theatrical shows in its courtyard.

Castello  Saint-Pierre

Built to stand on a rocky spur, the Castle of Saint-Pierre dates back to the 11^th century, but its first recorded reference was much later, in 1191. Its fairy-tale appearance, with its turrets and merlons, is attributed to nineteenth-century construction. Many liken its shape to that of a Disney castle, even though it is one of the oldest castle structures in the Aosta Valley. Today, you can visit the Castle of Saint-Pierre and also the Regional Museum of Natural Science it houses within its walls.

Castello di Fénis

Fénis Castle is famous for its many towers and battle walls. When it was first built around 1242, it was most likely a very simple structure. But from 1320 to 1420, Aimone of Challant and his son Bonifacio expanded the castle to its pentagonal arrangement with the towers and walls. The castle is situated unexpectedly on a knoll instead of a strategic location for defense. This is because it was constructed as a luxury residence for the Challant family. It stayed in the family until around 1716, when it was sold during the period of its decline. This great prestigious castle was then used as a stable and a barn. But in 1895, it was restored, and today is a museum where you can see a fifteenth-century fresco of Saint George killing a dragon, and balcony walls painted with the images of prophets and sages.

Do you have a favorite castle in Italy to share?

Written by Stephanie Photo Credits : roachy737 / paola25 / Daniele Sartori / Wiggytoo / stijn

Five Free Favorites in Florence

Florence is loaded with history, art, and culture that will keep you busy (and in awe) for days.  Unfortunately, entries to most of the famous and popular sites can get pricey, especially if you aren’t a member of the EU.  But don’t fret just yet!  There are plenty of things you can do in Florence without spending a euro, while still getting a rich experience of Florentine culture.

1.  Musicians in the Piazza

One of the best things about the bustling piazzas in Florence is the free entertainment.  Whether you’re walking around the cobblestone streets during the day or strolling around after dinner in the evening, piazzas are the perfect place to stop and relax.  In the Piazza Repubblica, jazz musicians (and sometimes guitarists) serenade the square.  Sit on a bench in the sun and people-watch while listening to the tunes.

After dinner (or anytime in the evening), wander down to the Piazza della Signoria and sit on the steps to the great Uffizzi Gallery.  The musicians vary from night to night, but they usually play covers from American bands such as Simon and Garfunkel, The Eagles, and everything in between.  Speakers project the music throughout the piazza, so you can get a great show from anywhere.  It’s the perfect way to end the evening!

2.  San Miniato al Monte

San Miniato al Monte offers exquisite panoramic views of the city of Florence.  You can even take a peaceful walk though the wooded grounds where 3000 Cyprus trees are planted.  However, the greatest attraction is inside the monastery.  Around 5:30 pm each evening, the monks conduct an hour and a half service with Gregorian chanting in the candlelit crypt.  It’s free to watch and is definitely a sound not to miss.

3.  Wine Tasting at Enoteca Alessi

What’s better than authentic Tuscan wine?  Free authentic Tuscan wine!  Check out this little wine-bar from 5pm to 7pm for free wine tastings throughout the week. (It’s near the Duomo)   When you’re done, you can head over to Grom gelateria for gelato.  I highly recommend the flavor combination of ciaccolate extranoir or baccio with pear.  After all, dark chocolate compliments a good wine!

4.  Free Museum Days

Florence houses some of the world’s most famous museums such as the Accademia, the Uffizi Gallery, the Bargello National Museum, the Pitti Palace and many more.  If you’re visiting Florence, visiting all or many of these museums could take a toll on your wallet.  Fortunately, there are several opportunities to get into these state museums free of charge.  In the winter months, museums do not charge an entry fee on February 8^th.

If you’re a woman, you can get into the museums free on March 8^th, which is International Women’s Day.  And if you’re in Florence over the summer, keep your eyes and ears open for any news about admittance to the Accademia.  During the summer nights, the museum has a free entry once a week allowing tourists to see “El David” in his glory.

5.  Le Cascine Park

On a nice day, get away from the hustle and bustle of the city by heading over to Le Cascine Park.  Just 15 minutes outside of the city center (toward the western part of Florence), this park is located along the Arno River and is the perfect place for those who want a break from the city or those who want get a little physical.

The park is equipped with basketball courts, tennis courts, a public swimming pool, and areas where you can run, bike, and go horseback riding.  If you’d rather take it easy, bring a blanket with you and set up your own little picnic on the grass.  Every Tuesday, there is a huge market that carries everything from food to clothes, so bring a few euro with you (or just a camera—there have been spottings of caged squirrels at the market) because you may find some treasures!

Written by : Laura Photo Credits: Andrew&Palmera / iabo77 / Anti Simonen / MLHS / ilkka.rinne

Q&A with Barolo Author Matthew Gavin Frank And Giveaway

If you love food, wine and Italy – we have a real treat for you today. Author of the book, Barolo - a story about his six months in the village of Barolo, Italy – drinking the wine of the same name, working the vineyards, cooking in the restaurants, getting to make friends with both the locals and shopkeepers.

Today, Matthew is doing a little Q&A with me and has graciously offered to give away a copy of the book to one lucky reader.

Stay tuned, details on the book giveaway will be at the end of our interview.

1.  Why Barolo? Out of all the places to write about in Italy – what made you choose Barolo and how did you ever wind up there in the first place?

Growing up in a microwave-and-saturated-fat-centric family, it took me a while to realize that the food world was larger than a radiated lamb shank paired with Crystal Light pink lemonade.  There was some impetuous revolt growing in me in my late teens in response to the crappy undergraduate meal-plan dinners (if you could call them that) served in Hopkins Hall, where I worked for a while—a very short while—clearing trays and washing dishes.

I remember the particular dinner that inspired this culinary rebellion.  It was this disaster of Creamed Chipped Beef on Texas Toast.  It broke me.  I began reading books on food and wine, determined to do better than this, which took a while actually.  At some point, I came across an article on Barolo wine and vowed to go to the region where it was made.  After a couple days, lazing in the vineyards, eating fresh pasta and white truffles, I vowed to return to live there and, upon returning to the States, trashed my microwave in vulgar ceremony.

2.  I’m assuming that Barolo is your favorite wine. What other wines do you drink – Italian or otherwise?

You are absolutely right, but I drink anything that tastes good.  From the Piedmont, I also love Docletto, Barbera, Nebbiolo, Barbaresco, Langhe blends, you name it.  There are so many wonderful wines from the Rhone Valley, and from Portugal, Argentina, Slovenia, etc. that are great values as well.  My wife is from South Africa, so we’ve been finding some great wines from her birthplace.  Lately I’ve been into Chenin Blancs from there.  Great summer barbeque wine.  Some grilled whitefish, a glass of Chenin Blanc…  That’s mid-May to me.

3.  In the book, you talk about a special, rather old and very expensive bottle of Barolo that Sandrone gave you.  Do you still remember how that tasted?  Can you tell those of us who will never be lucky enough to sample a wine like that about it?

Oh, I’m moaning just thinking about it. That wine was my primary payment for a season’s-worth of farm-work. I remember opening it, decanting it in this stone kitchen of a farmhouse in Barolo, Italy.  I left it there for an hour, and then returned.  The entire kitchen was perfumed with the stuff.  Violets and tar.  The wine was so rich, it was almost like a liqueur.

4. Can you share a secret, an undiscovered treasure with us – hopefully something that isn’t in the book.  Perhaps a gem of a place you ate, a special spot to watch a sunset, a reasonably priced wine available in the states for someone to try.

Try a Dolcetto by Sandrone, or Paolo Scavino.  Great, reasonably priced stuff.  The sunset from the sentiero (or rural hiking trail) between the hamlets of Barolo and La Morra is stunning.  It turns all of the local castles orange.  Osteria delle Saracca in Monforte d’Alba recently opened.  The meal was sublime, and the architecture is this fabulous mesh of the ancient and the modern, like techno music blasting in the Colosseum.

It was the first time I tried the Piemontese peasant dish called finanziera, a vinegar-stewed mélange of off-cuts and organs, splendidly prepared.  Like all great art (which great food is), the dish aimed to agitate even as it comforted and pleasured.  In it, I tasted cocks’ combs for the first time and, as such, woke the next morning early, guttural, and way too loud.

5.  What is the one Italian dish from that region that you would happily eat your weight in?

On my last visit to Barolo, I ate this meal at Osteria La Cantinetta: carne cruda (raw heirloom beef tenderloin with arugula, porcini mushroom, and white truffle oil), agnolotti al plin (tiny Piemontese Italian ravioli stuffed with braised veal and leek, sauced with sage butter and veal stock reduction), wild boar braised in Barolo wine, and hazelnut panna cotta.  If I had to choose one dish, it may be their agnolotti al plin.  Anyhow: I’m still pinning my residual burps into my lavender-scented scrapbook.

6.  I love the Italian language and often write lists of some of my favorite words.  Care to share one of your favorites….

I like colazione—because it’s fun to say, and because it means, breakfast.

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Thanks Matthew!

For the book giveaway, all you need to do is make a comment on this post from now through midnight, EST on May 31st for a chance to win.  I’ll pick the winner using the Random Number Generator.

And for those who don’t want to wait – you can purchase the book in my Amazon Store.

Good Luck!