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Travel Tip Tuesday : Venice Transport on the Cheap

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Venice is far from a cheap city.  But there are always ways to cut corners and save money in this otherwise pricey locale.  This Travel Tip Tuesday, I wanted to share a few easy ways to see  an important side of Venice, the views on the Grand Canal, on the cheap.

As you know, Venice is a city built on water – and therefore has no vehicles for transportation.  Instead, the transportation floats.

I am an advocate for walking and strolling around Venice- it’s here you’ll find little nooks and crannies.  Getting lost, getting found and getting lost again.  There is no less expensive way to get around Venice than on foot.

But there is one perspective you just can’t see from the footbridges and alleyways. The large Venetian palazzos that line the Grand Canal.

Many dream of floating along in a private gondola, seeing Venice from water level, but this can be expensive.  An hour ride in a gondola will run between 120€ and 150€ per hour.

Why not do what the locals do when they take to the water?

Ride the Vaporetto

The Vaporetto is Venice’s answer to the bus – only it floats and has better views.  This large oval, covered. motorized waterbus transports Venetians to and from Venice and her islands.  Like any major city bus, it’s crowded during rush-hours, so try to avoid these times. The best views are on the Vaporetto Line #1, which travels along the entire ‘S’-shaped Grand Canal.

Try to sneak a spot at the front of the boat, where the views are unobstructed and grab your camera- you’ll need it.  I recommend this trip as a great way to get excited and acquainted with Venice during the day. But, don’t forget to travel the same route at least once in the late evening, when the lights on the Grand Canal light up the dark sky and make Venice more magical, if that’s even possible.

Cost:

Single Ride – 6,50€ for one 60 minute one-way ticket
Tourist Card – Available in increments from 12 hours to 7 days, allows for unlimited rides. Between 16€ – 50€

Take a Traghetto

Another inexpensive option is not for the unbalanced.  Try lining up with the locals at the handful of traghetto crossings dotted along the Gand Canal, which can be located on any Vaporetto map or by following the yellow signs in the city. Be prepared to shuffle onto a plain gondola-shaped boat {these boats have been stripped of their luxurious frills} that ferries passengers across both sides of the Grand Canal.

It’s proper to face the direction you came from, as the boat will turn to face you in the direction of travel.  Though you can sit, locals will stand, but make sure you are sure-footed- you don’t want to end up in the drink.

Cost : 0,50€ for a one-way trip

Photo credits : Randwill / jlord

Five Ski Resorts in Northern Italy

The northern European countries like France and Switzerland are not the only areas of the continent with breathtaking mountains and great ski slopes. The Alps, Dolomites, and Piemonte make up some of the most beautiful Italian mountain regions. In such areas, you are sure to find some great ski resorts to stay at, especially in the wintertime. To help with your search, here are five resorts you should take a look at:

Madonna di Campiglio

Known as “the pearl of the Brenta Dolomites,” Madonna di Campiglio is nestled 1550 meters in altitude between the Adamello and Presanella glaciers. It is a well-liked ski resort in Italy, and possibly the most well-known at that. So much skiing is done here, that people can even start from the middle of town and return without removing their skis. There are slopes up to 2600 meters high, with various levels of difficulty.

Madonna di Campiglio is also an area that boasts many lakes, valleys, streams, and refuges right outside town for the nature lover. There is the Adamello-Brenta Natural Park as well, with 450 km of paths throughout the mountains on which you can get some exercise. There are a few restaurants and clubs for nightlife after a day of mountaineering, and even two spas to visit (winter sports can get very tiring!). Whether winter or summer, or in between, this resort has so many options for visitors to explore.

Cervinia

Cervinia is an alpine resort, located in the region of Valle d’Aosta, at the foot of the Matterhorn in Northwest Italy. Bordering Switzerland, it is one of Italy’s highest resorts, at 2,006 meters in altitude and ski lifts at 3,899 meters. At such a high altitude, snow is pretty much guaranteed.

The resort is great for beginners and families, as well as snowboarders, ski intermediates and experts. There is even a famous race from the Swiss border to Cervinia’s village at the end of April. If you want to stay indoors for the day, Cervinia offers swimming, fitness centers, squash, volleyball, saunas and jacuzzis, a climbing wall, and even bowling.

Livigno

Livigno is a fun, affordable place to travel, as it is a duty-free resort in the Alps region of Lombardy. It is located at one of the highest living altitudes in Europe. Skiing is separated into two sides, one closer to Switzerland, the other further into Italy. Both sides are useful for beginners, intermediates, and experts. Among the slopes, there are also some places for Italian architecture buffs to explore.

Saint Mary’s church, built in the 19^th century, and the Caravaggio church, named for housing a picture attributed to Caravaggio, along with some interesting ex-voto paintings. Saint Rocco church is also a place to see, as it was constructed in the early 16^th century and was used to protect villagers from the plague. Livigno is also known for its panorama, showing breathtaking valleys as well as high-peaked mountains.

Limone

The Limone resort is a lesser-known area in the Piemonte region, yet is one of Italy’s oldest ski locations. There is a 12^th century church at the center of the old village, beautifully picturesque. It is right next to the border of France, but only an hour away from the sea. Thus, the place has a very Mediterranean atmosphere about it. It even has a theater and a cinema to attend during your stay!

As for the slopes, Limone has 80 kilometers of tracks, and you can ski from “December to Easter.” There is also a ski school that offers individual and group lessons. The Ski Club Limone has held some prestigious competitions in the area, such as the downhill women’s World Cup and the Italian Men and Soldiers’ championship race.

Alagna

Also located in the region of Piemonte, Alagna is a small commune in the Valsesia alpine valley. It is immediately south of Monte Rosa, and is internationally known for its off-piste or back country skiing.  At 1,152 meters in altitude, Alagna has a cable car that reaches the Punta Indren Glacier, 3,260 meters above sea level. Alagna also provides heliskiing for people who love those verticals. It is a wonderland for advanced skiers for sure.

Beginners and early intermediates have their own separate area at a lower altitude of 500 meters. After a day of play, visitors of any level can experience authentic Italian wines and pastas, even though the area is infused with Swiss architecture, as Alagna lies at the border between Italy and Switzerland. It has a unique blending of cultures, which comes together because of the winter sports both European countries adore.

Where are your favorite places to ski in Italy?

Written by :Stephanie Photo Credits : Adam Sporka / Leo Setä / Anders L Jungberg / Tiziano Carviglia / Larsa

Winter in Venice

Even though we get to celebrate holidays like Christmas, Hanukkah, New Year’s, and Valentine’s Day during the winter, somehow most of us find ourselves yearning for a vacation before the spring hits. Venice, Italy is one travel destination that is very special to visit in the coldest months of the year.

A place like Venice “hits the spot” with its crisp, clear days, exciting activities, as well as its wintry serenity. The landscape becomes hauntingly beautiful, with fog permeating the city and the chance of snowfall at any minute. If you like photography, this is a perfect place to capture the lightly grayed, slanted light of Venice – winter produces eerie, yet spectacular images. Lovers of romantic scenery will certainly be wooed.

Better Prices, Lesser Crowds

Budget travelers and those preferring smaller tourist crowds will be pleasantly surprised. A winter vacation can be much easier on your budget. You can travel to Venice for a cheaper rate than in the spring and summer. Though it’s hard to say you’d ever find cheap hotels in Venice, during this time, you are sure to see lower prices than normal. Moreover, since winter is the “off season,” Venice has fewer crowds, meaning fewer lines at museums and other attractions. Traveling between November and March often yields much cheaper flights than during any other months.

Venetian Hot Chocolate

Before I go onto any other subject, I have to mention hot chocolate. Venice is known for its art of chocolate making and indulging. This is not anything like Starbucks (though I must say, Starbucks’s Hazelnut hot chocolate is outrageous). Venetians make this irresistible drink thicker, richer and smoother than mousse. If your stomach is sensitive to decadent sweets, don’t worry, you’ll get just the right amount with those European portions! If you need more, there’s always the chance to get morning chocolate, afternoon chocolate, evening chocolate, and of course in between.

The Arts

During the Venice off-season, Venetian opera, symphony, and theatre are in full swing. During Inverno Veneziano – the Venetian Winter Festival, which has been going on for the past seven years from November to February, the arts are really celebrated all winter long. It is a diverse festival, full of special events and concerts to enjoy. This year Celtic music was introduced into the festival, among its traditional Gospel music concerts, art exhibits, and gastronomy events. To make it even more invigorating, most of these events are held in historical churches and villas.

Carnivale

If you want to see a bit of unstructured performance, or even take part in it, then you should visit Venice during Carnivale. Carnivale is much like Mardi Gras in the U.S., except in Italy, the people go wild for almost a fortnight instead of a day!  The annual “party” festival lasts about two weeks and ends on Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday), the day before Ash Wednesday. During this time, the Venetians celebrate their freedoms before the 40 days of Lent, a practice that dates back to the 13^th century.

People dress up in elaborate costumes and don classically decorated Carnivale masks to hide their mischievous behavior while partying. Venice is much more crowded during Carnivale, for sure, but most tourists are only there for the playful festivities. Unless you are on the streets designated for the festival, most of the other areas of the city are empty, so you can get away from the crowds if need be. Though this years Carnivale has just wrapped-up, it’s something that should definitely go on your must-see list on your next winter visit to Venice.

Written by Stephanie Photo Credits : James Michael Hill / TracyElaine / LinksmanJD/ marjolein.visser

Five Wine Bars in Florence

It would be hard to imagine a trip to Italy without taking advantage of the amazing selection of wine that the country has to offer.  Luckily this is made a little easier by the many Italian wine bars, or enotecas.  Here you can sample a variety of wines without having to eat a full meal and in some cases, if you prefer, you can enjoy a glass without ever even having to sit down.  This is a convenience worth taking advantage of.  A few places that seemed particularly enticing can be found in the capital city of the Tuscan region, Florence.

1.  Cantinetta del Verrazzano boasts the ownership of arguably one of Chianti’s best-known wine-producing estates.  It’s hard to imagine how one could go wrong sampling a full-bodied red wine such as Chianti here.  Inside you will find a charmingly antiquated design of authentic wood paneling.  This, along with a giant wood fired pizza oven fitted into the back wall, provides warmth to an already pleasant atmosphere.  The quality of wine offered is only matched by the food.  Patrons here have the option to sample items from the bakery along with their wine choices.  Chianti is a wine meant to be enjoyed with food.  All the more reason to indulge and order a piece of freshly baked zucchini flower focaccia while sipping a glass filled with truly authentic Chianti.

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Cantinetta del Verrazzano
Via dei Tavolini 18-20r.
055 268590

2.  Cantinetta Antinori is truly fit for a king. It can be found inside a 15^th century palazzo in Florence on the left bank.  It has held residence there for some thirty years, surely a testament to its popularity.  While reservations are usually necessary it is well worth the extra few minutes it takes to plan ahead because it would be impossible to only order a simple side dish.  The dishes offered seem to rival the expansive selection of Tuscan wines.  When ordering something such as bistecca fiorentina you can be sure all ingredients used are grown on actual Antinori farms.  The servers here boast being able to speak almost all languages, so no need to worry if your Italian is a little rusty.  This will certainly not get in the way of enjoying the fine wines and dishes offered.

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Cantinetta Antinori
3 Palazzo Antinori
055 292234

3.  Gianni Migliorini’s Casa del Vino, while not located inside an ancient castle holds a somewhat historic title.  It is the oldest winery in the city and you can find it behind the open air market on Via dell’Ariento.  Here you can grab a small bite of bruschette or even sample the family olive oil made in Tavernelle.  This seems to be all that is necessary for his expansive collection of fine wines outshines any dining menu.  It also lends him the title of having one of the best wine cellars in Florence, which is as popular with locals as it is tourists.  Along with sampling a variety of wines here you might find yourself discovering your inner Hemingway while examining their collection of rare cognacs.  This is a collection that is specifically unique to them and certainly makes it worth a visit.

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Casa del Vino
Via dell’Ariento, 16r.
055 215609

4.  Pitti Gola e Cantina is a much more recent addition to the Florentine wine bar landscape.  To some it could be considered a virtual wine museum.  Inside patrons can view a beautiful structure which holds a large variety of wine.  Bottles here serve as both their fare and decoration as they line the walls. You will find yourself surrounded with both possibilities for your wine selections and a colorful almost enchanting atmosphere.  Along with this stunning inside view you can look out upon the street and enjoy views of the Pitti Palace.  Though an order of authentic Italian white, red, and dessert wine can get a little pricey,  it is not too upscale.  You will find the bar formal, but welcoming.  Finally any dining experience here is rounded out by the friendliness of the servers.

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Pitti Gola e Cantina
Piazza de’ Pitti, 16r.
055 212704

5.  The oldest option, which has been open since 1875, removes the necessity of servers altogether.  Here tucked away behind Piazza Signoria you will find I Fratellini, which roughly translated means, the “younger brothers”.  Only Tuscan wines are served across what is literally simply a bar.  It is fit snuggly inside the doorjamb of a cellar.  Charming in its evident simplicity, here you can find an affordable drink while never having to set foot inside.  This is a rare convenience as it is one of only a few of its kind left in the city.  This would certainly serve as a welcome site for travelers weary after a long day of walking through Florentine piazzas in search of the perfect glass of wine.

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I Fratellini
Via de’ Cimatori, 38/r.
055 2396096

Written by Molly Photo Credits : Il Carca / rfarmer

World Nutella Day 2010

We interrupt our normal Travel Photo Friday schedule to bring you something a bit more sinful and delicious today.

Yep, that’s right.  It’s World Nutella Day!

I have always been a fan of Nutella, but it wasn’t until a few years back that a few bloggers got together and decided to dedicate a whole day to the chocolate-hazelnut spread. Sara and Michelle are hosting this event.

I am a big fan of celebratory days like Valentine’s Day, but I also think one should explore and celebrate their love and in this case, love for Nutella- any chance they get.

This is my third year participating and since I, like many others, are short on time, I wanted to showcase something so incredibly easy to make that even time-challanged-baking-haters could enjoy Nutella as well.

In years past, I have made Grilled Nutella Sandwiches and  Nutella Stuffed French Toast.  And while I couldn’t imagine it getting any simpler than that- I think I have managed to up the easiness factor yet again!

This year I bring you:

Bite-sized Amaretti Cookie and Nutella Sandwiches.

You can find mini Italian amaretti cookies at your local Italian deli or perhaps your local market.

Just flip them flat side up, shmere a nice glob of Nutella on one half, top it with the other half and smoosh together until the hazlenut spread starts to ooze out of the side.  Pop ‘em whole – right into your mouth.

The crunchy, almondy sweetness of the cookie marries perfectly with the creamy Nutella.  They are extra enjoyable alongside a cup of steaming hot espresso. Or perhaps with a glass of ice-cold milk – an afternoon snack for the child in you.

But the best part – for today only – eat as many as you like.  There are no calories on World Nutella Day

And if you have the time and are feeling adventurous- try Nutella filled doughnuts from bell’alimento, who is a good friend to this site.

Well, have fun celebrating Nutella!

Happy World Nutella Day 2010!

Sleeping in Tuscan Vineyards

Rustically beautiful, the Etruscan wine country is an appealing destination for travelers. Fortunately, Tuscany boasts quite a few accommodations that can bring guests a natural, organic experience. Located on working vineyards, these places allow you to sample their own olive oil, wine and other foods made on the property while experiencing life in the Italian countryside at affordable prices. Here are six wonderful places you should know about (my favorites are Antico Borgo di Sugame and Agriturismo Le Caggiole).

Agriturismo Le Caggiole

Le Caggiole’s estate produces wine, olive oil, honey, and fruit jam, all of which guests can sample during their stay. The fruits they grow include plums, cherries, and peaches. As for other produce, Le Caggiole grows walnuts, saffron, and vegetables.

The property is located near Montepulciano, a historical Tuscan town, and  is only 7 km from Chianciano Terme Spa Wellness Center. At this spa, there is a recent project called Terme Sensoriali, a unique Naturopathy program, the only one in Italy. So anyone interested in natural healing and relaxation should certainly take advantage of Le Caggiole’s close proximity to such a distinct attraction.

Le Caggiole is a bed and breakfast, with four rooms, each with private bathrooms, that range in price from €70 to €100 per night. It also offers an apartment that can sleep two people priced from €90 to €130 a night. The guests are served home cooked Tuscan breakfasts and dinners made by Mamma Ornella – the owner Giacomo Martinelli’s mother. The continental breakfast offers fresh cakes and sweet coffee. For dinner guests can eat handmade pasta, organic meat, game, and lots of fresh cooked vegetables. Dinner prices range from €25 to €35  and include drinks and wine. Mamma Ornella also teaches cooking classes, where guests learn her special Tuscan cooking methods for a separate price. By leading tours of the farm, Giacomo not only gets to know his guests through his mother, but by spending time with them himself.

Le Caggiole is situated about one hour from Florence, 40 minutes from Siena, and 20 minutes from the Medieval village of Cetona. With these exciting destinations nearby and fun things to do on site, Le Caggiole’s guests may never want to leave.

Il Santo

Il Santo, located in the Chianti Classico hills, is only 1 km from Greve in Chianti, 25 km from Florence and 30 km from Siena. Guests can choose among four restored farmhouses, said to have been built around 1100 A.D. The prices range by number of guests, starting at €65 for two and ending at €100 for four. Each has a private entrance, bathroom, and garden/terrace, satellite television and wireless internet access. Among the vineyard and olive grove is a large swimming pool (swimming pools are pretty popular in the Tuscan countryside).

Of course, guests also get a tasting of the estate’s produce. Il Santo’s working winery makes Chianti Classico. Guests can buy it on site or have larger packages shipped home. They also produce cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil.

If they feel like getting some exercise in the Tuscan air, guests can stroll less than one mile out to Greve, where they can find restaurants, a tourist office, a market, bus stop and a laundromat. Bicycles, scooters, and cars are also available to rent in town. Those staying can have the privacy of renting their own farmhouse on Il Santo, and its location is perfect for exploring both Northern and Southern Tuscany.

Agriturismo Savernano

Agriturismo Savernano is a Bed & Breakfast in the hills of Tuscany, at the center of the triangle between Florence, Arezzo and Siena. The Panoni family, who purchased the farmhouse and property in 1994 say it is a ‘witness of the wedding between nature and comfort.’ For two people in a double room per night, the prices range from €75 to €120. Children under the age of 3 stay free. There are 8 rooms to choose from in the old renovated farmhouse, each with air conditioning, satellite television, refrigerator, telephone, and safe. Guests also receive covered parking for their cars. Guest can opt for the homemade meal for €17 which includes a first course, main course, salad, fruit, or dessert. Wine straight from the property’s vineyards is offered as the house wine.

Savernano also produces organic extra-virgin olive oil from its olive groves. Among the olive trees in the garden is a large swimming pool. Beyond the vineyards are oak, pine, and cypress trees. On warm nights, guests often see wild animals like foxes, boars, and deer. On the land is also a small, picturesque lake to view, helping guests get in touch with the nature.

Poggio all’Olmo Agriturismo

Poggio all’Olmo is the name of this small cluster of farmhouses that date back to around the end of the Renaissance, 1600 A.D. The houses are surrounded by beautiful vineyards and olive trees which offer treats for the eyes as well for the taste buds. Distant from the main roads, the property provides a purely relaxing atmosphere.

There are rooms in the main house and apartments available in the reconstructed hay shed. Depending on the number of people in the party, prices range from €75 to €130. Gas for heating and changes of sheets and towels are not included in the price. Guests are offered the vineyard’s beautiful views and the opportunity to buy the vineyard’s wine and olive oil. There is also a swimming pool for guests to cool off in during the hot summer months.

Located among the hills, this vacation spot encourages walking and other excursions. With historical places like Greve, Florence, Siena and San Gimignano just short drives away from Poggio all’Olmo, guests can become fully immersed in Tuscany’s unique culture.

Antico Borgo di Sugame

Borgo di Sugame is a vineyard and winery, its land dating back to 1200 B.C.E., where some of Robin’s friends have stayed when venturing to Tuscany. There is a separate cottage and nine fully furnished apartments built into two Tuscan farmhouses to choose from. The prices, depending on the apartment, range from €390 to €1105 weekly. Each holds its own bathroom(s) and even a kitchen, most of which have been newly renovated. Every dwelling has its individual outside space, either a terrace, garden, or patio, and of course stunning views of the beautiful Tuscan property. There is also a community pool to lounge around, and even that has a view. It overlooks distant mountain peaks and the vineyards.

Produced by Lorenzo Miceli and his wife Catrina, as well as only 15 friends and relatives, Borgo di Sugame’s four types of organic wines must be tasted. The farm also produces both chestnut flower and wildflower honey. Their organic olive oil is made from Frantoi, Leccino and Moraiolo olives.   As if this wasn’t enough, there are fresh fruit trees from which you can help yourself to figs, peaches, and other seasonal fruits. But beware, you may have to compete with the wild boars who roam the property.

Podere Val delle Corti

Val delle Corti is a quaint vineyard in Radda in Chianti. It is the perfect place for travelers who want to get to know their vineyard hosts. Val delle Corti only has one separate apartment on the estate for guests, a stone house called il Fienele or hay barn. Because there is only one place to stay Eli Bianchi and her son Roberto make sure the place is just perfect. They furnished il Fienele with a mix of old family antiques and new pieces. There is a kitchen (with a full pantry), living room, two bedrooms and one bathroom. Prices per night range from €90 to €110 or €690 for the entire week. A three night minimum is required.

On the property, the Bianchi’s produce a Chianti wine that is only available in Europe. Among the personable hospitality provided at Val delle Corti are the family pets; Hugo, a lab mix and Pepe the cat. The animals are trained not to beg for food or enter the apartment, but become friends with the guests regardless.

Val delle Corti is equidistant from Florence and Siena for guests who want to explore other places while traveling in Italy. However, guests can also visit nearby Radda, where they can have dinner at one of the excellent restaurants in town. The Bianchis also know much about the area and are active in their community, which makes it easy for guests to get suggestions on local must-see activities by asking their hosts.

Written by Stephanie Grossman

Passion on the Vine

The Internet, blogs and video have made arm-chair travelers the world over very happy people indeed. It is easier than ever to make virtual visits all over the globe.  But nothing beats good old-fashioned book readin’.

Descriptions in many books allow you to form pictures and impressions through your very own imagination.  Books can often make a place jump right off the page and come alive in your mind and heart.

Passion on the Vine, is one of those books.

If you like Italy, wine and Italian culture.  This is one for your bookshelf.

Sergio Esposito, a succesful entrepreneur, passionate Italian wine drinker and Italian expat is the owner and creator of Italian Wine Merchants in New York City.  His goal, which was successfully reached, was to introduce and make accessable, a variety of good quality Italian wines to New York and America, in a time where Italian wine consisted of Chianti in a plump, straw-covered bottles.

Esposito tells of his childhood in Naples and how his family’s hard-times caused them to move to the US to live with a relative in Albany, New York. Forced to eat bland dinners consisting of sub-par ingredients with relatives, he discovers a love and passion for wine at a very young age.  It becomes his special gift.  Later he moves to NYC, works in the famed San Domenico restaurant before becoming a wine consultant, eventually meets Batali and Bastianich. Soon after, Italian Wine Merchants was born.  And the rest, as they say, is history.

A good part of the book describes his frequent wine-buying trips to his beloved Italy.  His first experience with good Italian wine comes after his father gave him the freedom as a young teenager to explore Pisa and surrounding Tuscany for a few days on his own, while the rest of the family travelled to Naples.  Much later in life he took his reluctant parents, along with his wife and two small children, on a countrywide wine-buying and tasting trip extravaganza.

The book showcases vineyards and producers both large and small, in different regions of Italy.   It provides an insightful look into both modern and traditional wine styles.  The conversations, vineyard tours and detailed descriptions of his three-hour-dinners with friends will both entertain you and leave you wanting more.

I enjoyed this memoir, especially the humorous parts.  Esposito’s passion for Italian food and wine, as well as his love of his homeland, shine though.

Hopefully Passion on the Vinewill inspire you to travel to Italy.  Or at the very least, tempt you to experiment with Italian wines not named Chianti.

Photo Essay : Stunning Seaside Towns on Italy’s Mediterranean

When I think of the tiny towns nestled along Italy’s Western coast, I think of the multi-hued sherbet cubes tucked into cliffsides, varying shades of aquamarine water with colorful boats bobbing up and down, gray pebbly beaches with lounge chairs and colorful umbrellas, steep craggy coastlines that abruptly drop into the forcefully churning surf and ports where fishmongers row in their catch of the day.

And though many of them possess these same characteristics, each one has its own history, charm, vibe and reasons to visit.  Enjoy this photo essay of some of the best seaside towns in Italy.

Sanremo

Sanremo is one of the westernmost town, so very close to the French border.  It’s home to a casino, palm trees and a luxurious looking Marina!

Genoa

Genoa is one of the largest cities on the Northern Italy Coast.  It’s a large industrial port city and actually was Italy’s first.

Lerici

Lerici is in the province of Liguria.  It’s considered part of the Italian Riviera. And in case you can’t tell from the photo…it’s a port town.

Manarola

Cinque Terre means five towns. It is literally made up of five tiny villages, all connected by ancient paths.  This photo is of Manarola, one of the most recognizable in the Cinque Terre.

Portofino

Another hugely popular town on the Italian Riviera is Portofino.  The small fishing village was supposedly discovered by Romans and named for dolphins.  The stunning half-moon shape of the harbor is best viewed from above, as in this photo.

Livorno

Livorno is an ancient tangle of canals and walls.  It’s also known as Leghorn, and there is a breed of chicken named after the city.  Rumor has it that it’s how Foghorn Leghorn got his name.

Monterosso al Mare

Another tiny town included in the Cinque Terre.  I love how the little beach is anchored on either side by the huge rocks.  And check out the walkway just clinging to that cliff face on the right.

Vernazza

This unique town of the Cinque Terre wraps completely around the coast, offering spectacular views. The Doria Castle, which was erected to protect against pirates and the church’s octagonal bell tower are two notable sights.

Camogli

Camogli, which means houses close together in Italian, is a tiny fishing village on the coast.  If this picture is any indication, it looks adorable.

Riomaggiore

The southernmost town in the Cinque Terre group.  It sits on the Gulf of Genoa and is known for its wine and aquariums.

Portovenere

This tiny fishing village is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Its name is said to come from a temple to the goddess Venus. I know I’d feel like a goddess if I spent any time there.

Piombino

Piombino is an ancient Etruscan port.  The area attracts snorkelers and divers from all over the world.  There is also a Marine Biology Center and aquarium.

Nettuno

Nettuno, named for the Roman god Neptune, is located in the Lazio region.  It’s a popular spot for sunbathers since it’s a stop on the local train out of Rome.

Gaeta

Gaeta has had a turbulent history, but is currently an important seaport for both fishing and oil.  You can also get tiella here, which is a unique combination of a pizza and calzone. I can imagine eating one on that stretch of golden sand.

Sorrento

Sorrento is a tourist destination in the Campania region, which overlooks the beautiful Bay of Naples.  Other than delicious views and luxury resorts, Sorrento is known for its Limoncello.  How ’bout a chilled sip while drooling over this view?

Positano

Made famous by the scenes shot here in Under the Tuscan Sun, this gem had been frequented by celebs long before that. Located on the Amalfi coast,  Positano was a medieval port and boasts two separate beaches- both equally beautiful.

Atrani

Atrani, located a few minutes drive from Amalfi, is one of the most romantic towns of them all.  The location is stunning,even dramatic, and looking at this photo it’s clear why.   Their abundance of fish is evident in the Sagre del Pesce Azzurro, the celebratory fish festival.

Praiano

Praiano, located between Positano and Amalfi, is home to the famed Grotto Esmerela, or Green Grotto.  Not quite as talked about as the famous Blue Grotto on Capri, but with views like this, how could it not be beautiful?

Cetara

Once used by pirates as a naval base and later destroyed by Turkish pirates in the 16th century, this tiny gem is known for its anchovy and tuna production.  Oh, and it looks dreamy at dusk, wouldn’t you agree?

Tropea

Tropea is situated on a reef in the toe of the boot, the Calabria region.  From the photo, we can tell it’s a favorite spot of beach-goers.  The people seem ant-like in relation to the giant sandstone cliffs.

Amalfi

Located at the mouth of a ravine called Monte Cerrato, Amalfi is certainly one of the most well-known towns.  An entire section of Italy’s southern coast is named after it.  Amalfi is home to a Duomo, campanile (bell tower) and hosts an ancient regatta once every four years.

Which stunning locale are you heading to first?  Include any favorites that I missed in the comments.

Note : Though many of these little villages are set in more specific areas of Italy’s coastline, such as the Ligurian and Tyrrhenian Seas, I have grouped these bodies of water all together as part of the larger Mediterranean Sea for the pupose of this piece.

Photo Credits : Mike Flemming / Perrimoon / Alex Scarcella / Rob Inh00d / Extravigator / Conormac / LeeMcarthur / Tylerc083 / RoSSella Rebonato / [MP] / Nick’s Pics /  Raffaelesergi1977 / Sunshinecity / Michaelwm25 / S J Pickney / Robin Locker / Allerina & Glen MacLarty / MHJohnston / Ale Bovini / Simo0082 / Paul and Jill

Image of the Week : La Fontana

During our first trip to Italy, I surprised Chris by wanting to visit the tiny walled city of Lucca.  Chris adores Puccini and it just so happens that Lucca does as well. Puccini was born in Lucca and is the celebrated son of the town.

While wandering the cobbeled streets of the town, we came across this fountain near our hotel.  There was just something so visually interesting about the marbled stone fountain against the backdrop of the old ocher colored building.

The little details like the royal blue sign, red geraniums in the window box, light blue shutters and bicycles scream Italy.

It remains one of my favorite photos from that first trip, and of Lucca in general. I’d like to think my fountain fetish began with this shot.

For this week only, both the color and black and white images and the greeting cards will be available with FREE shipping!

Click on the links to view and purchase the color version and the black and white version.

Enjoy.

Q&A with Nan McElroy and Book Giveaway

For those of you who don’t know Nan McElroy, she is an American expat living in Venice, Italy (jealous, maybe a little!). Matter of fact, her website is called Living Venice. How appropriate!

I have had the pleasure of getting to know Nan. I consider her a friend and a colleague. Most notably, Nan has published a wonderful series of travel books-which I highly recommend to you and to clients.

Nan agreed to do an interview to kick-off my new website and give away a free copy of one of her books to a lucky  reader! But, you’ll have to stick around ’till the end of the interview to find out which one!

Here is our chat. Enjoy!

MM: Nan, why Italy? How did you end up living there?

Nan: It’s odd…I’m not one of those people who always wanted to live in Italy, or who, upon my first visit (in 1995) swooned and went home to pack thinking I’d return to live some storybook version of La Dolce Vita. I had no delusions about the difference between being on vacation here and trying to be productive. I do remember thinking, “I can’t believe this country has been here my whole life and nobody told me.”

Being from the Southeast, I’d had little exposure to Italian culture of any sort, and the difference between Pizza Hut and Olive Garden and the country itself was stupificante, to say the least. I continued to return yearly for a month or more at a time, in ‘96 to learn the language, then to travel, research and write “Italy: Instructions for Use.” In the end, the supreme effort it took to leave a stable life as a video editor behind and relocate at cinquant’anni, was motivated purely by what I wanted my daily life to consist of: less time in the car, and more in a less-manic, more-forgiving, arts-investing, food-based culture that’s as agile as it is gracious. Perfect? Macché(certainly not!). But then less face it: neither am I.

MM: And how did you land in Venice?

Nan: It’s Europe’s (and Venice’s) intimacy that suits me. The scale of the city. The water. The absence of cars, and the built-in walking. Being in constant contact with the outdoors. The food. The wine. The prevalence and appreciation of art and artisanship. All facets of daily reality, face-to-face, undeniable. The fact that every relationship is personal, no matter how short-lived, from the bank teller to the restaurant owner to a member of the remiera (boat club) or my singing companion, the barista, the president of the association or the lady from the post office to the ex, all of whom, prima o poi (sooner or later), I’m likely to run into on the street or the vaporetto.

Maybe it’s a quick “ciao,” maybe you’ll stop for a chat (Tutto bene?), maybe it’s a promise to get in touch, but it’s incredibly sustaining…just like the fresh vegetables that arrive by boat from Sant’Erasmo weekly…it creates a tangible “we’re all in this together” atmosphere. And of course, the voga. But we’ll get to that.

MM: What do you love about Venice?

Nan: Going somewhere else and coming back home. I waited ten years for this sensation to wear itself out…and now after fourteen, it still hasn’t. There are times I do feel I live in a sort of Lilliput…in that the rest of the world can have a tendency to recede…but I try to keep things in perspective. Also, no matter where you are in the city, in any sestiere, whether out walking, on a boat, or at home with a window open…you can hear the grand marangona in the San Marco campanile, toll the stroke of midnight.  I never tire of hearing it.

MM: Can you share a Venice secret with us, perhaps something not in a guidebook?

Nan: The secret is there aren’t any. If you sit at La Cantina, half of the folks there will have a guidebook talking about that unknown cafe with no menu, marvelous food, great wines and friendly service (I call it Venice’s version of “Cheers”). If you are a local living in almost any remote campo, a writer (with her photographer) will stop you almost daily telling you she is writing a book on “Secret Venice” and then asking to confirm some detail of the oddity that occurred there.

If there are secrets about Venice they have to do with how, rather than what or where. I wish visitors would spend less time worrying about booking the perfect hotel (there are lots) or determining the ideal location (anywhere but San Marco), and more time reading just a smidgen about Venice and her story…it will bring you a whole other awareness of everything you take in when you are here. Keeping in mind that Venice was not originally created as a resort can make a big difference in how you enjoy the city, no matter how little time you have.

That…and spend more time here. It is a cumbersome city and simply takes more effort than others to become orientated to. When you don’t allow that time, you cheat yourself, I think…and frankly, risk wasting money solely due to lack of knowledge of how the city functions.

I will tell you one secret, I think: Orsoni Mosaics. It’s the Other Venetian Glass. Signing up for a class there (three days or a week) is a wonderful way to really connect, literally, with the city’s artisan history…and slow you down enough to really live it. The other “secret” is the voga…but I’ll get to that in a minute.

MM: Do you ever get homesick for the US?

Nan: I miss friends, family, and colleagues, of course…and I am always amazed at how inexpensive things are in the U.S. compared to Europe. I am not homesick for living behind the wheel of a car, though…I love having trains and mass transit, and someone else to do the driving while I read, or work, or nod off…

MM: You and I are alike in that we wear many hats. Can you tell us what you are involved in?

Nan: I do organize travelers time here in Venice; however, I work more often as the “Venice connection” for Italian Travel Consultants as opposed to working directly. One of my most popular services is “Venice: A Welcome Introduction,” a unique, on-arrival orientation that’s marvelous for helping folks get their bearings. I sit people down in a calm location with maps (Venice and vaporetto) and other materials, marking them for booked activities, my suggestions, dining recommendations, and otherwise noting all their options according to interests and the time they have. People seem to find it extremely helpful.

Otherwise, my catch-phrase is “vini, voce, e voga.” For pure pleasure, I study la lyrica (lyric opera) with Sara Bardino (thus the voce, voice), and team up with mezzo-soprano Valentina Borsato and a few other for the occasional concert. (When it goes well, it yields what we refer to as soddisfazione, such satisfaction…)

As for the “vini,” I *should* be an AIS sommelier by February (the exam is not easy and the course is in Italian, so…pray for me). But with all this wonderful wine at a stone’s throw it seemed a shame not to immerse myself in it…so to speak. I’m particularly enjoying getting to know wines made from native varietals by small producers who don’t export, made with as little “correction” as possible; I’m hoping to help clarify the maze for the everyday wine enthusiast through writing, offering visits to local wineries, and on-site introductions to regional wines here in Venice. (I bet €50 you do too like white wine!).

MM: You have a deal, Nan! And speaking of wine, what kind of wine do you prefer?

Nan: I like good wine. That’s all. Good. Balanced, complex. Good. Red, white, French, Italian, any country, sfuso (on tap), invecchiato (aged) , I don’t care. A Corolla for lunch or a Lamborghini for an occasion. Good wine.

I will say that generally, I prefer lower alcohol wines. Complexity seems to shine through more easily, I think. And…you can also enjoy more wine with less risk of negative effects. So…good French wines, when I can get my hands on them, make me absolutely swoon. As a friend puts it, they are the undisputed masters at the techniques to pull every last nuance out of a grape…they have to, being so far north. And unlike high-alcohol “jammier” wines from super-mature fruit, they can have an overall elegance that’s hard to beat. I don’t think you have to be an expert to sense it either (i.e., if I can…).

However, Italian wines are simply smashing for their extraordinary variety, excellence of production, and sheer enjoyability – if that’s a word. Many of the wines produced in the Tre Venezie are in fact low in alcohol, and I’ve really come to appreciate them…they’re just compatible with the way I consume food and alcohol…so it works out great!

MM: Tell us about your Instructions For Use series and which countries we can look forward to seeing next?

Nan: Illustrata Press publishes the Instructions for Use Travel Series (Italy: France: , and Greece: Instructions for Use, and now the new Vap Map Vaporetto Guide). I would love to follow up with Spain, but the truth is that both the travel and publishing industries are undergoing enormous changes almost daily. I’d like to get my bearings a bit before launching into another country. I’m very proud of these pubs though…they serve exactly the purpose I was hoping for: to keep all practical info at folks’ fingertips (because they’ll never remember it all, or have time to locate where they read something on a website when they’re on-site).

MM: What is Voga?

Nan: My all-consuming passion is vogare: to row, Venetian style. If there is a “secret” that lives – or perhaps is disappearing – right under the nose of every single traveler, this is it. “Vogare” in Italian means “to row”: the voga alla veneta is the style unique to Venice and her lagoon, performed standing up, facing forward. “We row with our heads,” one guy tells me. “The rest of the world rows on its ass.” It’s the method the gondoliers employ (look closer, they do not pole); and it has propelled Venetian craft throughout its long history fin dall’inizio: when Dandolo sacked Constantinople, when Bellini and Titian and Tintoretto were painting, when Casanova escaped from the Piombi, and even when Napoleon arrived, up until after WWII, Venetians vogavano, they rowed.For us foresti, we never feel so Venetian as when we row the voga alla veneta.

I am the president of a non-profit cultural association called VIVA (Voga per l’Identità Veneta) formed by five women vogatrici: three “Veneziana DOC,” or Venetian by birth, and two by choice). VIVA is dedicated to the celebration, salvation, conservation, and documentation of the voga and its culture, including returning the oar-powered traditional craft to their rightful place in Venetian canals. This amazing core group of women numbering over thirty and still expanding is determined not to let the motorcraft monopolize the canals and the lagoon.

Along with their supporters , VIVA is collaborating with other organizations like Arzanà, Pax in Acqua and voga boat clubs like Settemari, and is co-producing a documentary film, “Grit and Grace,” that will help spread the fascinating story of the voga, past and present, and the women’s efforts to maintain it as an integral part of Venetian life. If you’re looking for “hidden Venice,” this is where you’ll find it.

Can you contribute? I thought you’d never ask! Of course you can…and we need you. (10 minutes, €10).

Why is it important? It’s less about the money, and more about letting the City of Venice and our potential funders know how many people to whom this is an important cause.

To lend a hand…from wherever you are, surf to:

* VivaVogaVeneta.org and join VIVA – just €10 per year, then
* pass the word to other Venice lovers, rowers, and wooden boats builders – we need them too.

Then, when in Venice:

* keep an eye out for traditional craft and particularly us women rowers (feel free to express your appreciation vociferously. “Bea barca!”).
* for a larger contribution we will row you in our sandolo so you can have a truly authentic experience.
* and please…ask your taxi driver to SLOW DOWN!

________

Thanks so much Nan, for answering my questions!

And now for more fun, Nan has been nice enough to give away one of her fabulous books to one of my lucky readers! It’s my favorite in the series (I have previously reviewed it), Italy: Instructions for Use.

So, all you need to do is leave a comment on this post about Venice. It can be anything really. A helpful tip, your favorite memory, a different food you tried while there or even what you dream of doing in Venice if you haven’t been yet!

You have until December 5th at midnight EST to comment and then I will pick a winner, who will be announced on the blog the following day.

And if you want more Italy, don’t forget to enter to win a FREE subscription to the Dream of Italy newsletter!  Time is running out!

In bocca al lupo!

All photos in this post are copywrite Nan McElroy and cannot be used without express permission.